Quime

Quime is a forgotten mountain town in Bolivia's Yungas region, often called the "Shangri-la" of Bolivia by resident foreigners. The region sits in one of the steepest parts of the Bolivian Andes and is the center of biodiversity for both Andean Bolivia and South America. It's perfect for self-guided adventure tourists, trekkers seeking unexplored trails, and those wanting to escape tourist crowds between La Paz and points south.

Quime has a population of 10,000, with 3,000 living in the town itself and the rest in 31 indigenous Aimara communities spread over an area the size of Luxembourg. The town sits in a deep forested valley surrounded by high peaks of the Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz. Temperature rarely drops below 6°C or exceeds 26°C. The name Quime comes from Quechua meaning "Place to Rest" and was a traditional stopping point for mule trains carrying coca, gold, and food supplies. For the past 100 years it has been a commercial center for tin, zinc, tungsten, silver, and gold mines clinging to sheer cliffs.

Quime lies roughly midway between Cochabamba, Oruro, and La Paz. The main access is via Konani, where you can catch buses from La Paz (Bs. 25-35), Oruro, Potosi, Cochabamba, or Santa Cruz. From Konani, constant minivans run to Quime. Alternatively, visitors sometimes arrive via the 06:00 mining truck from Quime that heads toward Chambillaya mine.

Quime is small enough that everything is within walking distance, though taxis on the Alameda near the Flota Inquisivi bus station can help with hill climbs. Radio taxis operate from by the central plaza. Local trucks and buses depart from the Alameda to destinations throughout the province. For exploration, visitors primarily walk for day hikes or use mules for multi-day expeditions and treks.

The views from the upper edge of town span about 80 km (50 miles) of Andean mountains and valleys. Nearby Elfin Cloud Forests contain mosses, lichens, ferns, bromeliads, and rare birds including the endemic Rufous-breasted Grosbeak. The reclusive Spectacled Bear lives in a nearby refuge but is rarely seen. The most popular day hike is to the Chambillaya tungsten mine: catch the 05:30 mining truck from the bridge (three blocks east from Hostal Colibri) for Bs. 5, or hike using OpenStreetMap. Miners at Chambillaya will give free tours if you share coca leaves with them. A spectacular waterfall about 1 km from the mine tracks offers mineral-colored water cascading down.

Quime suits two types of visitors: those wanting to relax on mountainsides, picnic, and take day hikes, and adventurers seeking exploration hiking where no one has been before. The Pumuta Indigenous Community Ecological Park is developing in remnant cloud forest about one hour from Quime, with visitors welcome to help with development. The canyon of Rio Chichipata offers picnicking spots 45 minutes walk away. The owner of Hummingbird Ranch-Hostal Colibri has 30 years of local experience and can arrange day hikes plus longer treks to the Enchanted City of Choquercamiri and pre-Inca Cotas culture ruins reminiscent of Machu Picchu.

Quime has little for serious shoppers unless interested in hand-woven blankets, native costumes made by and for local people, or locally made aloe vera shampoo. The Sunday Fair is the main market where you can buy fresh produce, fruit, vegetables, and basic household items to cook for yourself or outfit a minimalist expedition.

Quime's famous specialty is huatia: meat in mild chili sauce with cooking bananas, sweet potatoes, horse beans, sweet corn, and potatoes buried in red-hot rocks covered with earth and tree tobacco leaves, then baked underground for an hour. Numerous informal restaurants on the Alameda near where buses stop serve safe soups. The restaurant across from the Apostal Santiago Bus Office comes recommended by locals. At the Sunday fair, dishes like Picante de Pollo, Fricase, and Sajta de Pollo cost about Bs. 10 per plate. For drinks, locals drink beer or the local coktél: 180-proof cane alcohol mixed with fruit juices (orange, passion fruit, lemon/lime) and/or herbs like coca, mint, lemon mint, or chamomile, served hot or cold. Avoid coktéles made with Kool-Aid at parties.

A city tax of 10% per tourist per night applies. Hostal Colibri (Hummingbird Ranch) offers the most established accommodation with a host who knows the area well and can arrange guides. Alojamiento Santiago on Calle Bolivar, two blocks from the plaza near the Santiago Bus Office, has two rooms with 7 beds each on a balcony overlooking an interior patio and garden for US$5 per person; the owner can arrange a group sauna for US$7. A yellow building offers rooms from Bs. 50 per person in a hacienda with two levels, a large kitchen, and comfortable living area.

The mayor's office operates an internet cafe on the main plaza with 30 computers running at 512 kbps, though they may be virus-infected. Another internet cafe exists on the Alameda near the minibus departure point. Hostal Colibri has an Entel modem available for laptop users. Cell phone services are provided by TIGO and ENTEL with booths in the town center.

Regular buses to La Paz depart at 17:00, 22:30, and 02:00 for Bs. 25-35, with tickets available in advance in Quime. Constant minivans run to Konani (two hours away), where you can catch buses to Oruro, Potosi, Cochabamba, or Santa Cruz. Note that certain destinations along the main highway from/to La Paz served from Konani may only have service at specific hours, particularly night buses. Shop around in Quime for the best company and departure time.

Quime is generally very quiet and safe for travelers. The main hiking trails are not yet clearly marked, so hosts at Hostal Colibri can recommend routes and provide details for self-guided hikes. With advance notice, tour guides may be arranged. If you prefer more activity and nightlife, head to Sorata instead.