Ollantaytambo

Ollantaytambo is unique in all of Peru—a living Inca town where the same cobblestone grid and stone foundations built over 500 years ago are still inhabited today. This is where the Incas retreated after the Spanish took Cusco, and the spectacular green mountains surrounding the town are dotted with Inca ruins including the fortress-temple complex right above the main plaza. It serves as the primary rail gateway to Machu Picchu, making it an essential stop on any Sacred Valley itinerary.

The Ollantaytambo railway station connects the town to Cusco via the Sacred Valley and onward to Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu. PeruRail operates service from Poroy (near Cusco) and the journey through the Urubamba Valley offers dramatic mountain scenery. The train station is about 400 meters (a quarter mile) from the main plaza, an easy walk lined with restaurants.

Walking or cycling is the best way to explore Ollantaytambo. Three-wheeled moto-taxis and regular taxis are available at the train station but are generally unnecessary for the compact town center. The walk from the train station to the main plaza takes approximately 5 minutes, broken up by various restaurants along the way. It's just a 2-minute walk from the main plaza to the ruins entrance.

The dry season (May–October) offers the best weather for exploring ruins and trekking, though this coincides with peak tourist season. December to March is the wetter season with fewer crowds and discounted accommodation rates. El Albergue Ollantaytambo offers discounted rates December–March while requiring a minimum two-night stay during peak season (May 1 – August 31).

Ollantaytambo offers accommodation ranging from budget hostels to boutique hotels. Budget options include Hostal Chaskawasi with dorm beds from S/20 and Hostal el Tambao at US$10 per person in the old Incan pueblo. Mid-range options like Hotel Munay T'ika (S/100-180) and El Albergue (US$58-74) include breakfast and hot showers. For the best views of the Inca fortress, consider Hostal Iskay or Apu Lodge in the old town.

The town offers diverse dining from budget to upscale. Hearts Cafe on the main square donates profits to children's projects and has quality coffee with a book exchange. Quechua Blues Bar across the river serves good meals for about S/15. Alma Amor offers quiet vegetarian meals (S/25-35) alongside yoga and meditation. For upscale dining, El Albergue Restaurant features an open kitchen with alpaca and trout dinners, while Kusicoyllor claims the best coffee in Cusco with candlelit views of the ruins.

The main draw is the Ruins of Ollantaytambo, a largely religious site that also served as defensive structures where the Incas defeated the Spaniards. The hike to the top takes about 15 minutes. Across the valley, Pinkullyuna hill has Inca storehouses with spectacular views and free admission (open 07:00–16:30). KB Tambo and other operators offer bike and horse tours. Awamaki Weaving Project runs tours to Quechua communities in the Patacancha Valley and can arrange homestays.

The main square is usually swarming with hikers and porters. A few blocks away is a vibrant community living in pre-Columbian dwellings—if invited inside, you'll see alpaca fetishes for fertility and ancestors' skulls in niches. When hiking to Pinkullyuna or the granaries, go with a friend and let your hostel know where you've gone. Be cautious with chicha (local corn beer), which some locals report is sometimes made under unhygienic conditions.

Several accommodations offer free WiFi including Apu Lodge, Casa Blanca Lodge, and Tunupa Lodge. El Albergue Ollantaytambo also provides internet access. Power outlets use the standard Peruvian Type A/B plugs (120V, 60Hz), matching North American standards.

Budget travelers can eat well for S/15-25 per meal at places like Quechua Blues Bar and Alma Amor. Dorm beds start at S/20 at Hostal Chaskawasi. The boleto turistico costs S/130 for 10 days covering multiple Sacred Valley sites, or S/70 for a 2-day partial pass. Walking is free, and the ruins offer spectacular views at no extra cost beyond the tourist ticket.

The most popular day trip is the train journey to Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu (typically combined as an overnight or day trip). The mountains opposite the main ruins have ancient granaries accessible by trek. The Awamaki project offers day trips to Quechua communities in the Patacancha Valley. A full day can be spent hiking both Pinkullyuna and the main ruins complex.

The main onward destination is Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu via the PeruRail train service. Return to Cusco to explore more of the Sacred Valley, including Pisac, Yucay, and Moray. The Ollantaytambo station connects to both directions on the rail line serving the Sacred Valley and the route to the Lost City of the Incas.