Miyajima

Miyajima (宮島), officially Itsukushima, is one of Japan's three finest views — a serene island where the iconic floating torii gate stands in the bay at high tide. Deer wander freely through streets that retain a classic Edo-era look, and the island has been a holy site since 806 AD when monk Kōbō Daishi established Mt. Misen as a Shingon Buddhist ascetic site. Most budget travelers day-trip from Hiroshima, but staying overnight lets you experience the island after the flag-waving megaphone-equipped tour groups depart and the stone lanterns are lit.

Miyajima is reached by ferry from Miyajimaguchi, which can be reached from JR Hiroshima station by train (30 min, ¥420) or tram line #2 (70 min, ¥270). The JR West Miyajima Ferry and Matsudai ferry take 10 minutes and cost ¥200 each way; Japan Rail Pass holders ride the JR ferry free. Upon entering the island, a ¥100 visitor tax is collected. Ferries run from around 06:25 with at least 4 trips per hour, winding down after 19:00 with last runs between 22:00 and 23:00. Direct options include the Aqua Net high-speed boat from Motoyasubashi Pier (45 min, ¥2200 one-way, ¥4000 return) and the Setonaikai-kisen high-speed boat from Hiroshima Pier (32 min, ¥1900).

Miyajima is small enough to cover on foot with English-language signs throughout. Taxis can be taken from the pier to hotels and residential areas, but not to tourist sights. The 1 Day Streetcar and Ferry Pass (¥900) allows unlimited rides on Miyajima Matsudai Steamship and Hiroshima Electric Railway streetcars. The Visit Hiroshima Tourist Pass (¥1000 one-day, ¥1500 two-day) adds unlimited rides on city buses and cannot be purchased on board trams.

The best time to see the floating torii is at high tide; check the Hiroshima tourist information office for approximate times or use online tide charts. Spring brings cherry blossoms in the park and around the 5-story pagoda. Autumn draws visitors to Momijidani Park for momiji (maple) colors. Most tour groups are gone after 17:00, so staying until evening offers a different, quieter experience of the island.

Accommodation on Miyajima is uniformly expensive, and most backpackers day-trip from Hiroshima. However, a night here is worthwhile to experience the island without tour groups. Options range from Tsutsumigaura campground (campsites ¥1000, rental tents ¥3080) to guesthouses like Kikugawa Guest House (¥7000-20,800) and traditional ryokans like Iwaso (¥19,000-40,000 per person with meals), dating back to 1854. Budget options include Hotel New Kotobuki (¥6,000-8,000) with shared showers. Evening hours can be very quiet, so this suits those seeking relaxation over nightlife.

Miyajima is famous for oysters and eel bowls. Kakiya serves only oysters with a set of seven traditional dishes for ¥2,600. Inachu offers eel bowls at ¥2,300 and oyster bowls at ¥1,300. Wada has eel bowls for ¥1,800, and Mame tanuki for ¥2,200. Miyajima Brewery serves flights of locally-brewed beers for ¥1,000 at its courtyard bar. The main shopping street between the ferry terminal and Itsukushima has numerous souvenir shops selling rice scoops, miniature torii, and sweet boxes. Local treats include deer-shaped cookies and deer poop chocolate (crunchy droppings-shaped chocolate).

Itsukushima Shrine (UNESCO World Heritage Site) is the main attraction — a red-lacquered complex on stilts where ¥300 gets temple entry, ¥500 includes the Treasure Hall. The floating torii gate is best seen at high tide. Senjokaku (千畳閣) is a huge wooden pavilion with nothing inside, built by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1587, with a ¥100 entry. Daisho-in is a Buddhist temple tucked into the hills with golden prayer wheels and the Henjokutsu Cave featuring Buddhist icons from the Shikoku pilgrimage. The Miyajima ropeway (¥1100 one way, ¥2000 round trip) takes you partway up Mt. Misen; the 30-minute hike from the top station to the summit (530m) offers gorgeous views. Momijidani Park has quiet temples to explore. The Miyajima History and Folklore Museum (¥300 adults, ¥170 for ages 15-18) is a small charming collection in a former soy sauce mogul's residence from the early 1800s.

Tame deer roam freely and will harass tourists for food or anything paper-like. A feeding ban is now in place, making the remaining deer bolder about rooting in bags and backpacks. Deer on Mt. Misen may have sharp antlers that haven't been removed — take care. A colony of monkeys lives on Mt. Misen; by the ropeway station, standard monkey rules apply: don't stare, don't leave food around, don't make sudden movements. While the hike to Mt. Misen is manageable for most fitness levels, there are no guide stations along the way. On the momiji trail, don't stray onto private property, but the hilltop view is public — the restaurant owner's claim of ownership is false.

Public wireless LAN is available at public facilities on Miyajima and on some ferries. Available locations can be found on the official tourist website.

From Miyajima, ferry back to Miyajimaguchi then connect to Hiroshima (the main city with the Peace Memorial Park), Iwakuni and Yamaguchi to the west, or Hatsukaichi (Hiroden station). High-speed boats also connect to Matsuyama from Ujina Port.