Merzouga

Merzouga is a tiny Saharan village on the edge of Erg Chebbi, a 50-km long and 5-km wide expanse of towering sand dunes reaching up to 350 m above the plain and 808 m above sea level. Most visitors come here for camel safaris into the dunes and to experience remote Berber life in the desert. The local population is a mix of Arabs and Berbers who are generally welcoming and friendly, though touting behavior is more prevalent here than elsewhere in Morocco.

Supratours buses travel from the center of Merzouga village north to Meknes, Fez, and also over to Ouarzazate and Marrakech. Buses depart for Marrakech at 07:30 and for Fez at 22:30, costing 160 dirham. The route is new and affordable for accessing the desert. However, there are no stops to visit Todra Gorge, Dades Valley, Ait Ben Haddaou, or Ifrane on these routes.

The only way to get around Merzouga is on foot. The village is fairly small and easily walkable, but you'll likely want to avoid the midday desert heat. Taxis or organized tours are needed to reach surrounding villages like Khamlia or Hassilabied.

Spring migration (March-May) brings special bird species like ruddy shelduck and Kittlitz's plover. The desert can be extremely hot in summer (40°C+) and cold at night in winter. Early morning or late afternoon are best for outdoor activities to avoid the intense midday heat.

Accommodation ranges from basic guesthouses in the village to luxury desert camps. Dar Gamra offers doubles from 170 dirham with WiFi and relaxed atmosphere. Auberge Soleil Bleu has rooms starting at 90 dirham with a roof terrace five minutes from the dunes. Hotel Kanz Erremal (€44) sits at the base of the dunes with a pool facing the sand. For camping, Auberge Ksar Sania offers camping at 25 dirham per person with desert overnight at 350 dirham per person half-board. Many accommodations include camel treks and 4x4 desert tours.

Most people eat meals at their lodge, but a few basic restaurants are scattered around town. Haven La Chance offers lunches including pizza cooked in sand the nomadic way. Snack Hassi Labied in the center of Hassi Labied serves tagines, couscous, and sandwiches. Hygiene standards in the desert are lower than in the rest of Morocco, so try to eat at places with enough customers.

The Grand Dune (the highest in Erg Chebbi) offers spectacular sunrise and sunset views over the dunes. Activities include hiking across the dunes (about 5 km from Merzouga's southern edge to the other side), sandboarding down steep slopes (skis available at Dar Gamra), and ATV/quad bike tours from 400 dirham per person. A 4WD region tour costs 800 dirham for 2 hours, including dune driving, village visits, and Dayet Srij lake. Camel trekking is the classic desert experience, with rates around 60 dirham per hour at Auberge Ksar Sania.

Beware of guides in Rissani or Erfoud who offer to take you to Merzouga for 5 dirham each, but instead strand you at their auberge 20 km north of the village. If you decline their offers of camel rides and lodging, it can be difficult and expensive to get back to town. Touting behavior is more aggressive here than in other Moroccan destinations, so be firm but polite when declining sales pitches.

Visits to Khamlia village, inhabited by Senegalese musicians and dancers, can be arranged with local guides. The Dayet Srij salt lake, just west of Merzouga, offers birdwatching (though no water has been present for at least 2 years as of May 2018). Local wildlife includes desert sparrows, gerbils, desert foxes, and in spring, flamingos and various migratory birds. Numidian Morocco Tours offers multi-day trekking tours across Morocco departing from Merzouga.

WiFi is available at some accommodations like Dar Gamra and Auberge Haven La Chance Desert Hotel around their pools. Mobile coverage exists but can be intermittent in the desert. The single ATM in Merzouga is noted as sometimes unreliable, so bring sufficient cash from larger cities.

From Merzouga, Supratours buses connect to Fez (22:30 departure), Marrakech (07:30 departure, via Ouarzazate), and Meknes. For more remote destinations like Todra Gorge or Ait Ben Haddaou, you'll need to arrange private transport or join organized tours. The Supratours route does not stop at these popular destinations.