Mandalay

Mandalay is Myanmar's second-largest city and the economic and religious hub of upper Myanmar, centered on the royal palace with wide avenues filled with bicycles and motorcycles. The city is known for its millionaires, its monks (half of the country's monks live in Mandalay and surrounding areas), and its cultural diversity. Unlike the more modern Yangon, Mandalay offers a glimpse into traditional Burmese life with ancient temples, traditional crafts, and access to several former capitals within day-trip distance.

Mandalay International Airport (IATA: MDL) is located 35 km south of the city center in Tada-U, serving domestic flights and some international routes including 3 flights weekly to/from Kunming, China on flight MU2029. The Highway Bus Station handles regional bus connections with services to Yangon (10,500-16,000 kyat), Bagan (8,000-9,000 kyat), and other destinations. Taxis from the airport or bus station into town should cost no more than 5,000 kyat for the car; pick-ups are cheaper at 500 kyat per person.

Shared pick-up trucks run along 83rd Street one block from the Clock Tower every 20 minutes (500-1,000 kyat). Motorbike taxis from the city center cost 1,000-2,000 kyat. Private pick-ups are available for 5,000 kyat. Bicycle rental is available at guesthouses (1,500-2,000 kyat per day), and motorbike rental costs 10,000-12,000 kyat per day depending on automatic or semi-automatic transmission.

Mandalay has a semi-tropical climate in the central dry zone. Winter (November-February) is dry and cold with temperatures of 14-29°C, making it the most comfortable time to visit. Summer (March-May) can be extremely hot with temperatures reaching 39°C. The city receives less rain than the tropical south, with the wet season from June to October. The best time to visit is November to February for comfortable weather and clear views from Mandalay Hill at sunset.

Budget accommodation ranges from US$7-30, with dorm beds at Dreamland Guesthouse (US$10) and Yoe Yoe Lay Guesthouse (US$7 per person). Mid-range options include Royal Guesthouse (US$7+), ET Hotel (US$20), and Nylon Hotel (US$10-20). Higher-end choices include Mandalay City Hotel (US$80) and Hilton Mandalay (from US$121). Most guesthouses are clustered around 25th-27th Streets near the palace moat, offering free Wi-Fi and breakfast.

Mandalay's cuisine reflects its position as a major trading center with influences from Shan State, China, India, and Bangladesh. Must-try specialties include Htou moun (traditional Burmese dessert sold only in Mandalay), Shan noodles with fermented pastes, and Muslim Chinese pan-THEI-kao-sweh noodles. Street food options include Indian roti at 81st and 26th Streets (300 kyat for 2 curries and 2 rotis), set meals at street stalls (800 kyat), and night market at 76th and 34th Street (best 18:00-19:00). For coffee, Golden Coffee Shop on 35th Street offers Wi-Fi and drinks for 500-2,000 kyat.

The Mandalay Zone Fee of 10,000 kyat covers most central attractions for about a week. The iconic Mandalay Hill climb takes 30-45 minutes and offers panoramic sunset views (additional 1,000 kyat to enter topmost pagoda). Other key sites include Kuthodaw Paya (world's largest book with 729 white stupas), Shwenandaw Monastery (teak monastery with intricate carvings), and Maha Myat Muni Paya (Myanmar's second holiest pilgrimage site). Cultural performances include Mandalay Marionettes Theatre (15,000 kyat, 20:30) and Mintha Theater (8,000 kyat). The Moustache Brothers political comedy-dance show costs 10,000 kyat at 20:30.

Mandalay is generally a safe city, though it has historically been a center for drug trafficking. In 2005, an explosion occurred at Zegyo Market. Women are advised to dress modestly when visiting temples and should note that they are not permitted to enter the main sanctuary of Maha Myat Muni Paya. Street dogs are common around Mandalay Hill. The UK Foreign Office advises against all travel to North Mandalay Region townships north of the city.

SIM cards are available in Myanmar though coverage and reliability can vary. Free Wi-Fi is available at Golden Coffee Shop (35th St), V Cafe (80th & 25th St), and most guesthouses and hotels including Dreamland Guesthouse, Yoe Yoe Lay Guesthouse, and Hotel Sahara. Power outlets typically use Type C, D, and G plugs common in Southeast Asia. Internet speeds can be slow and unreliable throughout Myanmar.

A daily budget for a backpacker in Mandalay ranges from 20,000-35,000 kyat (US$10-18) excluding accommodation. Street food meals cost 800-1,800 kyat, restaurant mains 2,000-5,500 kyat, and coffee/drinks 500-2,000 kyat. Local transport (pick-ups) costs 500-1,500 kyat. Attraction entrance fees include the Mandalay Zone Fee (10,000 kyat), Mandalay Hill (1,000 kyat surcharge), and individual temple fees. Cooking classes run approximately US$30, while evening shows cost 8,000-15,000 kyat.

Amarapura (Pyi) is famous for U Bein Bridge, the world's longest teak bridge, located south of Mandalay. Sagaing to the east has many Buddhist temples and monasteries on Sagaing Hill. Mingun offers the massive Mingun Bell (one of the world's largest) reachable by boat (5,000 kyat return, departures at 09:00). Pyin U Lwin (Maymyo) is a former British hill station with colonial relics and botanical gardens; shared taxis cost 6,500-7,000 kyat and take 1.5 hours, or take the scenic 04:00 train.

From Mandalay, overnight buses depart for Mawlamyine (15,000 kyat, 18:00 departure) and Yangon (10,500-16,000 kyat, 07:00 and 09:00). Bagan is reachable by bus (8,000-9,000 kyat with OK Bus hotel pickup) or by slow boat on Sundays and Wednesdays at 05:30 (US$15, 13 hours) or express boat Nov-Feb (US$45, 8 hours). Hsipaw offers a scenic 5-hour bus journey (5,000 kyat, departures at 06:00 and 14:30). All buses depart from the Highway Bus Station.