Overview
Bagan preserves an extensive Buddhist archaeological landscape. Temple visits and village crafts connect its monumental history with everyday life.
Architecture · Culture · History
Did you know?
- Ananda's standing Buddhas face the cardinal directions.
- Myinkaba village offers lacquerware-making demonstrations.
- Thousands of temples, pagodas and stupas date from the 11th–12th centuries.
Why go?
Bagan is an area and archaeological site in central Myanmar, inscribed as UNESCO World Heritage. With thousands of Buddhist temples, pagodas, and stupas dating from the 11th-12th centuries, it offers a romantic landscape of ancient ruins, best explored by bicycle or e-bike. Unlike Angkor, temples are closely spaced ('tapas-style'), making it easy to cover many in a day.
Understand
The three main towns are Old Bagan (luxury hotels), New Bagan (backpacker hub), and Nyaung U (budget options). Temples are built from stupa, block base, and vestibule. Erosion from wind and the Ayeyarwady River is a threat. The site feels romantic due to aged brick and stucco.
Getting in
Most travelers arrive via Nyaung U. Buses from Yangon or Mandalay drop at Bagan Shwe Pyi Highway Bus Terminal, with a monopoly charging foreigners 8,000 kyat into town. Alternatively, walk to the highway for 1,000-1,500 kyat. Flights from Yangon or Mandalay land at Nyaung U Airport, 4 km south. Trains from Mandalay arrive at Bagan Railway Station, 1.2 km from the bus terminal.
Fees and permits
Entry to the archaeological site costs US$20 or 25,000 kyat (as of June 2019), valid for 5 days. Tickets are mainly checked at Htilominlo and Shwesandaw temples. Purchase at the ticket booth on the road from the airport or bus terminal.
Getting around
E-bikes are popular: 4,000-6,000 kyat per day for old models, 5,000-8,000 kyat for new two-seaters (battery lasts half to full day). Bicycles cost 1,000 kyat/day. Shared pickups between Nyaung U and Old Bagan (200 kyat) or New Bagan (400 kyat) try to overcharge tourists. Horse carriages cost 10,000-15,000 kyat/day (up to 4 people).
Where to stay
Most backpackers stay in New Bagan or Nyaung U, where budget guesthouses and hostels cluster. New Bagan is preferred for its relaxed vibe. Old Bagan has only government-involved luxury hotels. Dorm beds start around 8,000 kyat (Lux Pillow Hostel) to 17,000 kyat (Ostello Bello Bagan). Book ahead in high season.
Food & drink
Local noodle soup and buffet meals (1,500-2,000 kyat) are excellent. Restaurant Row in Nyaung U has tourist-oriented eateries like Black Bamboo and Weather Spoon's (US$5-7 per person). The Moon Vegetarian Restaurant in Old Bagan offers fresh veggie dishes. Tea houses like Khine Wah serve samosa and tea for under 500 kyat.
Things to do
Visit temples: Ananda (holiest), Shwesandaw (sunset), Law Ka Ou Shaung (sunrise, less crowded), Sulamani (frescoes). Take a hot air balloon ride ($299-320/person, Oct-Apr). Free lacquerware-making tour in Myinkaba village. Observe monks alms-gathering at 07:00 on Nyaung U Rd. Climb Tant Kyi Taung Pagoda across the river for panoramic views (boat 15-20,000 kyat).
Stay safe
Wear sandals for easy removal at temples (shoes disrespectful). Watch for bees in less-visited temples. Sun protection is essential. Dust can aggravate respiratory illnesses. E-bikes slip on sand; drive slowly. Souvenir vendors use psychological tricks - firmly decline. Be wary of taxi drivers claiming your hotel closed; arrange transfers through your hotel.
Budget
Daily backpacker budget: dorm bed 8,000-17,000 kyat, e-bike rental 5,000 kyat, meals 5,000 kyat (three local meals), entry ticket amortized ~5,000 kyat/day (25,000 kyat for 5 days). Total ~25,000-35,000 kyat/day ($12-18 USD).
Day trips
Mount Popa, 50 km southeast, is a cliff-top temple with monkey inhabitants. Return trip 4,000-6,000 kyat organized, or 1,000-1,500 kyat local transport. Tant Kyi Taung Pagoda across the river offers city views; boat 15,000-20,000 kyat plus 4WD 20,000 kyat.
Etiquette
Remove shoes and socks before entering any temple or pagoda. Dress modestly covering shoulders and knees. Do not touch Buddha images. Do not buy from child vendors – it encourages them to skip school. Ask permission before photographing monks or locals.
Go next
For travel questions, contact the tourist information counter in Nyaung U (+95-9-5019088). From Bagan, onward buses connect to Yangon, Mandalay, and other Myanmar destinations. Mount Popa is a common stop on the route to or from Bagan.
Guide text adapted from Wikivoyage contributors under CC BY-SA 4.0.
Where to start
Eat
Black Bamboo
One of the few places with an atmosphere, set in a green courtyard just off the restaurant row. Local and Western dishes and wine available.
Eat
Khine Wah Tea House
Local cafe. Tea/coffee (milk tea 500 kyat), samosa, tea leaves salad (1,000 kyat), etc. Free WiFi.
Eat
Mahar Bagan
One of the better restaurants in Bagan, with a cheerful and friendly owner who speaks good English and seems happy to indulge customers in stories about the area. The menu consists primarily of Chinese-style dishes. The restaurant serves an excellent array of traditional Burmese food, but you have to visit 4-5 hours in advance to let them know your order, as most Burmese dishes take a long time to prepare.
Eat
Restaurant Row
Has a string of restaurants catering to tourists, most of which are quite good.
Eat
South end of Bagan-Nyaung U, Lanmadaw 3 Rd
There are alfresco restaurants lining this road serving complete budget meals. A meal priced at 1,600 kyat consists of rice with the main dish, two bite sizes of beef, pork, or two small chicken pieces, or about a dozen smelt pieces, plus clear broth and 4 small plates of appetizer-veggies, beans, salads, pickled veggies. There are also tourist restaurants in this area towards Old Bagan, some of which are good but all have high prices.
Eat
Star Beans
Run by a friendly man with many years of experience in Myanmar hotels, the restaurant offers beautifully presented Burmese food and a few Western favourites. Best are the fresh baguettes.
Eat
The Golden Emperor
Good food and good service. Food is a mix of local Myanmarese and western. The milkshakes are good, and beer is available.
Price when recorded: Around US$7 per person
Eat
The Moon Vegetarian Restaurant
A great veggie restaurant. All food on the extensive menu is freshly prepared, and there is always a special dish of the day. Seats around 15, so you will not have to sit with big tour groups. The staff are quite friendly and generally better at speaking English than the average Myanmar citizen. The special Myanmar coffee you see on the menu is actually tea.
Price when recorded: Around US$7 per person
Before you go
Etiquette
Remove shoes before temples. Dress modestly. Do not buy from child vendors. Ask before photographing monks.
Money
Entry ticket US$20 or 25,000 kyat (5 days). ATMs in Nyaung U and New Bagan. Bargaining is expected; start at half the initial price.
Safety
Shoes off in temples. Beware of souvenir vendor tactics. Taxi drivers may scam; use hotel transport. Dusty; bring mask if respiratory issues.
Transport
E-bikes 4,000-6,000 kyat/day, bicycles 1,000 kyat/day. Horse carriage 10,000-15,000 kyat/day. Shared pickups 200-400 kyat.
Water
Water from temple jars (distilled) is safe. Refill at travel agencies or bank branches. Carry a bottle.