Yangon

Yangon, formerly Rangoon, is Myanmar's largest city and economic hub. It offers a unique blend of British colonial architecture, Buddhist pagodas like the Shwedagon, and a multi-ethnic food scene. Despite losing its capital status, it remains the most cosmopolitan city in Myanmar and a fascinating destination for budget travelers.

Yangon International Airport (Mingladon) is about 30 min north of the city centre. Taxis to downtown cost around 30,000 kyat. Long-distance buses depart from Aung Mingalar Bus Terminal (north) and Hlaing Thar Yar Bus Terminal (west). Trains from other cities arrive at Yangon Central Railway Station.

Motorbikes and bicycles are not permitted in Yangon, and foreigners cannot drive. The Yangon Circular Railway offers a 3-hour loop around the city for 500 kyat. Taxis are plentiful; a typical ride within the city costs 2,500-6,000 kyat. Ferries cross the Yangon River to Dallah.

The best time to visit is the cool dry season from November to February. The rainy season from May to October brings heavy downpours and flooding. March and April are very hot, with temperatures near 40°C.

Budget hotels are mostly in Pazundaung and Botataung Townships, away from the city centre. Mid-range hotels cluster around Sule Pagoda and north of Shwedagon. Luxury hotels are near Kandawgyi Lake or downtown. Dorm beds cost as low as US$8, while budget private rooms start at US$10-20.

Yangon has a wide range of cuisines: Bamar, Indian, Chinese, and Shan. Street food is cheap (500-2,000 kyat per meal). Biryani is a specialty, with chains like Yuzana, KSS, and Nilar. Local bars (beer stations) serve beer for 800 kyat a pint, but close early. Trendy cocktail bars cater to expats and the wealthy.

The main attraction is the Shwedagon Paya (10,000 kyat), a massive golden stupa. Other sights include Botataung Paya (6,000 kyat), Sule Paya (US$3), and the National Museum. Take the Dallah Ferry (4,000 kyat roundtrip) for a glimpse of local life. The Circular Railway is a great budget activity.

Yangon is one of the safest big cities in the world. Violent crime is rare, but normal precautions apply. Avoid lonely areas at night. Prostitution and drug trafficking are illegal with severe penalties including death.

Internet cafes are available, such as Cyber Cafe II (400 kyat/hr) and Tokyo Donuts (400 kyat/hr). Many hotels offer free Wi-Fi. SIM cards are available from local providers, but coverage can be spotty.

Backpackers can get by on US$15-25 per day. Dorm beds cost US$5-10. Street food meals are 500-2,000 kyat. Local bus and train rides are under 1,000 kyat. The Shwedagon entry is 10,000 kyat. Avoid hotel restaurants which are much more expensive.

Bago (60 km north) has pagodas and monasteries. Twante and Thanlyin (Syriam) are accessible by ferry and offer delta scenery. Taukkyan War Cemetery is an hour's drive. Longer trips go to Mawlamyine, Pathein, and Mandalay.

When visiting pagodas, dress modestly (no shorts) and remove shoes and socks. Women should not drink alcohol in local bars. Bargaining is expected in markets. Be respectful of Buddhist customs.

From Yangon, you can fly or take buses to Mandalay, Bagan, and Inle Lake. Overnight trains go to Mawlamyine. Buses to Bago, Pathein, and beach destinations like Chaungtha are available.