Pyin U Lwin

Pyin U Lwin (formerly Maymyo) is a refreshing escape from Myanmar's heat—sitting at 1,070m elevation with temperatures rarely exceeding 30°C even in summer. This former British summer capital preserves Victorian-era charm with garishly painted horse-drawn carriages called gharries still plying the streets, colonial Tudor houses (many now government hotels), and a cosmopolitan mix of Indian, Chinese, Anglo-Burmese, and Shan communities. The town is famous across Myanmar for strawberries, coffee, flowers, and hand-knit sweaters.

Pyin U Lwin served as the summer capital of the British Raj in Burma, complete with a military centre for the Indian Army, giving it a distinctly Anglo-Indian character unlike anywhere else in Myanmar. The elevation of 1,070m supports flower cultivation, strawberry farms, and coffee plantations. Today it hosts the Defence Academy of the Burmese military and serves as a market centre for goods from Shan State and Kachin territories. The town's multicultural population includes significant Indian, Chinese (particularly Yunnanese), and Shan communities.

Pyin U Lwin is noticeably cooler than the surrounding plains due to its elevation of 1,070m. Summer temperatures rarely exceed 30°C, providing relief from the Burmese heat. Winter nights can drop below 10°C, so warm layers are essential during December-February visits. The abundance of flowers and plantations thrives in this temperate climate.

Pyin U Lwin is connected to Mandalay by road (approximately 3 hours) and by train. The train journey to/from Mandalay takes about 3 hours on the slow railway. Buses and pick-ups also run frequently between the two cities along the Mandalay-Lashio Road. The nearest major airport is Mandalay International Airport.

The compact city centre is easily explored on foot or by bicycle. Bicycle rental costs 1,200-2,000 kyat per day through hotels. The iconic gharries—old Victorian horse-drawn carriages garishly painted—offer a unique mode of transport for short trips around town. For distant attractions like the National Kandawgyi Gardens (1.5km south), frequent pick-ups operate along the Mandalay road, motorcycle taxis are available at the market, and regular taxis can be hired. Motorcycles can be rented from shops near the mosque.

Pyin U Lwin is notably free of the pagodas found throughout Myanmar, offering instead British colonial heritage. The National Kandawgyi Gardens (8:00-18:00, 7,500 kyat for foreigners) were established in 1915 and contain diverse flora including English plant varieties, a rose garden, an orchid collection, and a stupa in the middle of a pond. Colonial houses include The Candacraig (now Thiri Myaing Hotel, made famous by Paul Theroux in The Great Railway Bazaar), The Croxton, and Craddock Court—all government-run. The Shiva Temple sits behind the clock tower, while the Chinese Temple near Candacraig serves the Yunnanese community. The Purcell Tower at the main intersection mimics Big Ben's chimes. The English Cemetery beyond the train station is in poor condition but contains plaques to British lives lost in wars; St James Church lies across the road. The National Landmarks Garden next to the botanical gardens displays models of Burma's landmarks for US$4.

Anisakan Falls offers a half-day hike through a rugged gorge with a Buddhist temple at the base. Take Mandalay-bound pick-ups (300 kyat) to Anisakan village, then walk 2km through the village, across a railway, past a monastery and through fields. The steep 35-45 minute descent leads to the falls; a separate trail climbs to the top revealing three connected waterfalls. Pwe Kauk Falls (Hampshire Falls in British times) is a popular picnic spot on the road to Lashio—take a taxi or share taxi from the Lashio stand. An hour's hike from Pwe Kauk with a guide leads to natural caves at U Naung Gu with Buddha statues and a swimming hole. Further along the Lashio road, Pyeik Chin Miang features deep caves full of Buddhas and a popular swimming pool. Shan villages of Mogyopit, Yechando, and Ye Negye can be visited en route to Pwe Kauk Falls. The Gokteik Viaduct—a spectacular railway bridge—can be visited by taking the 08:22 train to Naung Paing (700/1,600 kyat ordinary/upper class), arriving around 11:50, then returning on the 12:30 Mandalay-bound train.

Pyin U Lwin is famous throughout Myanmar for strawberries, coffee, flowers, hand-knit sweaters, and damsons (plums). The Central Market is filled with shops selling these products. In spring (late February to early March), flower stalls line the entire road to Mandalay. The Golden Triangle Cafe and Bakery sells organic coffee from local plantations—ground and whole beans, vacuum packed. Strawberry jam appears at most breakfast buffets. Sweaters are a specialty item sold at numerous stores around the clock tower, a tradition shared with all British hill stations. The Defense Academy of the Burmese military is also located here, though not typically a tourist destination.

Pyin U Lwin has numerous Indian sweet shops near the Mandalay pick-up stand by the Clock Tower and at least one near the Central Market, offering barfi, laddoo, gulab jamun, and other traditional sweets. The South Indian Food Centre in back streets north of the market serves excellent thali-style curry meals for around US$2. Aung Padamya Restaurant behind Shan Market (closes 21:00) is considered possibly the best Indian restaurant in all of Myanmar. Krishna Restaurant on Gorakha Rd serves well-priced Indian curries with lentils, chapatis, and rice. The Golden Triangle Cafe and Bakery (Mandalay-Lashio Rd) offers espresso (1,800 kyat), pizzas, burgers, and fresh juices. An unnamed restaurant on Ziwaka Street near Grace Hotel I provides traditional Burmese set meals from 2,500 kyat with eight curries, vegetables, soup, and unlimited rice refills. Local grape wine is available alongside Myanmar beers, though the wine tends toward sweetness.

Pyin U Lwin's finest colonial houses have been restored as government-run hotels, with Kandawgygi Lodge (US$50-60) offering the upscale option in a partly colonial bungalow. Budget travelers have several choices: Grace Hotel I on Nan Myaing Rd (US$5/15 single/double with fan and hot water) is threadbare but clean with a nice garden. Grace Hotel II on Mandalay-Lashio Rd (US$14-16 double) is better maintained but noisy from the road. Queen Hotel on Lashio Rd (US$10 per person) offers clean sheets. The Golden Dream Hotel (US$20) is one of the oldest licensed hotels but is dirty and dark. Bravo Hotel (US$15-25) has clean modern rooms and a rooftop deck. Royal Flower Guesthouse near Shan Market (US$20-25) is family-run with clean rooms, hot water, and breakfast included. Tartar & Nay Hostel east of the night market (US$9-25) is a social hostel with dorms and private rooms, helpful staff, and bike/scooter rental. Sweety Land Hotel near the golf club (US$20-40) has 16 rooms with satellite TV. The Golden Gate Resort Guesthouse on Club Road (from US$20) offers bungalows with solar-heated hot water, wifi, and breakfast included.

International phone calls from Pyin U Lwin are surprisingly cheap—overseas calls to the UK and US cost approximately US$3-4 per minute at various call offices. Try the office just before the cinema on the road from Grace Hotel I to the clock tower. Internet cafes include T.Net around the corner from Golden Triangle Bakery at 400 kyat per hour, and Day and Night Internet on the first street to the right after the bakery. WiFi availability varies by accommodation, with The Golden Gate Resort offering complimentary access.

Pyin U Lwin caters well to budget travelers with daily costs around US$15-40 depending on comfort level. Accommodation ranges from US$5 dorms/budget hotels to US$60 upscale colonial stays. Meals cost US$2-5 at local restaurants, with street food cheaper still. Bicycle rental (1,200-2,000 kyat/day), gharry rides, and pick-up transport are all affordable. Attraction entry fees include 7,500 kyat at National Kandawgyi Gardens and US$4-5 at other sites. The falls are free to visit, with only transport costs. Myanmar's currency is the kyat; ATMs are increasingly available but cash (particularly kyat) remains essential for most purchases.

Several destinations make excellent day trips from Pyin U Lwin. The Gokteik Viaduct can be crossed by taking the morning train to Naung Paing and returning the same day (700-1,600 kyat round trip depending on class). Anisakan Falls is a half-day trip by pick-up (300 kyat) or taxi (US$15 round trip). Pwe Kauk Falls and the caves at U Naung Gu are full-day excursions requiring a guide for the cave portion. Shan villages are accessible on the route to Pwe Kauk Falls for those not continuing to Hsipaw or Kyaukme.

Hsipaw is a laid-back Shan town a few hours northeast of Pyin U Lwin, offering excellent trekking opportunities to Shan and Palaung villages. Kyaukme is a less touristy Shan town and good base for similar trekking. Both destinations are reachable by the road running north through the hills, typically by pick-up or bus from the Mandalay-Lashio road stations.