Ko Samui

Ko Samui is Thailand's second largest island and the largest in the Ang Thong archipelago of over 80 mostly uninhabited islands. The palm-fringed shoreline, coconut and fruit cultivation of coastal lowlands, and virgin rainforest covering the central granite massif make it a tropical paradise. Development has taken its toll, but the island remains an oasis of natural beauty with white sandy beaches, dazzling coral, lagoons, waterfalls, and crystal-clear water. Before COVID, the island saw 2.3 million visitors per year, but the pandemic created an unusually quiet period for visitors.

Samui is home to some 50,000 full-time inhabitants, 90% of whom are Buddhist. The island was probably first inhabited about 15 centuries ago by fishermen from the Malay Peninsula and south China. Until the early 1970s, Samui was an isolated self-sufficient community, even without roads until that time. The first backpackers arrived on coconut boats in the early 1970s, and the island grew substantially after the early 1990s when tourists started arriving in full boats. Now it's the second most popular island destination in Thailand after Phuket.

Samui's weather differs from the rest of Thailand: while most of the country has monsoon from April to September, Samui stays fairly dry during this period. The wet season arrives from October to December when Samui gets rain while elsewhere is drier. The best time to visit is January and February, when it's dry and slightly cooler. Average temperatures range from 24-33°C year-round.

Samui International Airport is the only airport on the island, a private airport built by Bangkok Airways, which is the sole domestic operator with near-hourly departures to/from Bangkok. The island can also be reached by ferry from the mainland, with Surat Thani being the closest big city. Bus connections to Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan, or Ko Tao require vigilance against luggage theft during transfers.

Samui's road system is well-developed compared to other nearby islands, centered on the Samui Ring Road. Small motorbikes are available for rental and are the most common way to get around. Taxis cruise about but it can be challenging to get them to use their meters. The island is 25 km long and 21 km wide, big enough for serious exploration but can be circumnavigated in just a couple of hours by motorbike or car.

With only an estimated 25,000 rooms, accommodation may be a problem in high season. Chaweng is the place for nightlife, while Lamai offers some late entertainment. For a quieter beach experience, try northern beaches like Mae Nam, Bophut, or Choeng Mon. The South Coast, west coast, and Nathon (center) offer good compromises with reasonably priced accommodation from around 400 baht. Luxury private villas with dedicated staff are also available.

Samui is famous for its coconuts, available everywhere and quite tasty. Seafood is generally a good choice, though in high season demand often exceeds local supply. Southern Thai cuisine is renowned for its spiciness with Malay, Indonesian, and Indian influences: favorites include massaman curry, khanom jeen (rice noodles in fish curry sauce), and chicken biryani. Dual pricing is common: some restaurants have two menus with tourist prices about four times higher than local prices. Main courses in standard Thai restaurants should be under 100 baht. Local beers (Singha, Tiger, Chang, Leo) are around 90 baht, with imported beers up to twice that. Wine costs over 2,000 baht per bottle.

The major reason people come to Samui is to enjoy the beaches. The main beaches of Chaweng and Lamai, despite mass development, are still impressive. Notable sights include Grandmother and Grandfather Rocks at Lamai Beach (resembling male and female genitalia), the Big Buddha statue at Bang Rak, and Na Muang Waterfalls (around 79 m high with purple rocks). Other attractions include Silver Beach (less crowded), Old House (nearly 200 years old Chinese-style house), Ban Lipa Yai village (known for rambutan, durian, mangosteen, and langsat), Laem Sor Pagoda, and Wat Khunaram (famous for its mummified monk). The usual panoply of water sports are available.

Tap water is not potable; always use sealed bottles. Restaurants buy ice made from purified water, so ice is safe. Motorbikes are risky to rent; Jeeps, trucks, and cars are considerably safer. If using a motorbike, always wear a helmet and never drive drunk. Most rental vehicles only have compulsory insurance covering nearly nothing. Roads have many large potholes. Be careful at beaches at night as crimes sometimes occur. If travelling by bus to Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan, or Ko Tao, do not store valuables in checked luggage as thefts occur. Taxis and motorbike-taxis tend to rip off tourists. ATVs are not registered for road use and not allowed in most areas.

Thailand has many internet cafes with hourly charges around 30 baht. Rural areas can access internet via broadband satellite. GSM networks of all major Thai mobile operators cover the island well. Purchasing a local SIM card will save money on international calls, and GPRS/EDGE/3G service is cheap and convenient. Most resorts, restaurants, cafes, and shopping centers offer free Wi-Fi.

Ang Thong National Marine Park offers scuba and snorkelling within striking distance. Ko Pha Ngan hosts the infamous Full Moon Party at Haad Rin, plus near-untouched landscapes and detox centers. Ko Tao is among the best places in Thailand to learn to dive. Khao Lak is a resort region and diving center gateway to Similan and Surin Islands. Krabi Province offers more beaches and islands. Surat Thani is the mainland's closest big city. Bangkok, Pattaya, Phuket, and Chiang Mai are a short hop away on Bangkok Airways.