Huay Xai

Huay Xai is a small riverside town on the Lao side of the Mekong, directly across from Chiang Khong in Thailand. For most backpackers, it's simply a transit point for the famous slow boat to Luang Prabang, but the town offers a gentle introduction to Lao life. Settle into a riverside restaurant with a cold Beerlao, watch cargo barges and ferries drift past, and adjust to the slower pace before continuing deeper into the country.

The main border crossing to Thailand is the New Friendship Bridge 4, open 06:00-22:00, though international buses operate only 08:00-18:00. Long-distance buses depart from Keo Champa Bus Station (Bokeo Station), about 5 km south of central Huay Xai. International buses to China and Thailand leave from Phet Aloune Bus Station further south. The slow boat pier lies 1 km north of town where truck-carrying ferry barges also dock. The slow boat now departs at 9am (changed from 11am as of Dec 2024), making it impossible to catch from the earliest buses from Chiang Rai, so plan for an overnight stay.

The main street is walkable and most points of interest are within easy reach on foot. For longer distances, bike taxis (tuk-tuk) are available. A one-way fare to the Chinese morning market costs around 10,000 kip.

The best time to visit Huay Xai is during the dry season from November to February when temperatures are cooler and rainfall is minimal. The slow boat is most popular during high season (November-March), so booking ahead is advisable. If visiting the Gibbon Experience, the dry season offers better trail conditions, though the forest canopy is lushest after the monsoon.

Huay Xai has a handful of guesthouses catering to transit travelers. The Friendship Guesthouse in the central strip offers rooms from 70,000 kip with private hot-water baths and a rooftop terrace with panoramic Mekong views. Gateway Villas at the top of the hill offers rooms from US$10 with free Wi-Fi for customers. Budget travelers can find basic doubles at Oudomphone Guesthouse 2 for 80,000 kip with clean floors and hot showers, or Sabaydee Guesthouse opposite for 90,000-120,000 kip for a twin room with fan or AC. BAP Guesthouse, while popular with travelers, has a reputation for overcharging.

Dining options are modest but adequate. The restaurant next door to the Gibbon Experience office has a garden terrace overlooking the Mekong and attracts the expat crowd. For riverside sunset views, several restaurants line the Mekong bank. Khongvab Duck BBQ, located 20m past Sabaydee Guesthouse, roasts duck from 14:00-17:00 and is popular with locals. Daauw Home near the temple offers dinner for two at 70,000-100,000 kip, run by Project Kajsiab, a non-profit improving Lao health. No Name restaurant, about 1 km south of the old border checkpoint on the Mekong, serves Lao barbecue shabu-shabu style on a large terrace. Beerlao is widely available at local shops.

The main attraction is the Gibbon Experience, a forest conservation project in the Bokeo Nature Reserve offering stays in tree houses 40 meters high with zipline canopy walks to spot the endangered Laotian black crested gibbon. Two-day/one-night tours cost 1,400,000 kip; three-day/two-night tours cost 2,450,000 kip, booked at their office on the main street or via email. Fort Carnot, a dilapidated French colonial-era fort on the hilltop, offers views of the Mekong from one accessible tower. The Herbal Sauna near town provides sauna sessions for 25,000 kip or massage for 80,000 kip. For morning市场 vibes, visit the Morning Market in Ban Muangkeo suburb.

Huay Xai is generally safe for travelers. However, a tourist agent at the border crossing has been reported to overcharge for slow boat tickets (asking 1,100 baht when standard prices are 200,000 kip) and makes false reservations for hotels in Pak Beng—rooms may have no windows or running water. Travelers should book directly with boat operators rather than through this agent. Standard precautions against petty theft apply.

Huay Xai is affordable for backpackers. Daily costs break down roughly as: dorm or budget double 60,000-90,000 kip, simple meals 30,000-70,000 kip, local beer and drinks 10,000-20,000 kip, local transport 10,000 kip. The slow boat to Luang Prabang costs 400,000 kip total (200,000 to Pakbeng plus 200,000 to Luang Prabang). The Gibbon Experience is pricier at 1,400,000-2,450,000 kip but includes accommodation and meals in the jungle.

The Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone (GT SEZ), operated by the Chinese-owned Kings Romans Group, lies midway between Huay Xai and Tachileik, Myanmar. Tuk-tuk transport costs 1,500 baht or 1,000,000 kip round trip (Dec 2024). The SEZ features casinos catering to Chinese tourists. Travelers should note environmental and ethical concerns regarding wildlife trafficking in the area. Elephant Adventures offers 2-5 day elephant treks from Hongsa in Sayaboury Province, supported by ElefantAsia NGO.

Cross the Mekong to Chiang Khong, Thailand, via the Friendship Bridge (open 06:00-22:00). Take the slow boat (departs 9am, reserve at pier) to Pakbeng (200,000 kip) for an overnight stop, then continue to Luang Prabang (another 200,000 kip). Alternatively, the fast boat covers the route in one long day. Bus travel north goes to the Lao highlands of Luang Namtha. The Gibbon Experience office can arrange onward transport.