Mae Salong

Mae Salong offers a rare blend of Chinese Yunnanese culture in Thailand, with a unique history tied to the Golden Triangle opium trade and Kuomintang soldiers who settled here after fleeing communist China in 1949. The village produces excellent high-mountain oolong tea, serves crisp Yunnanese cuisine, and provides access to Akha tribal villages for trekking. The cool mountain climate and lack of nightlife make it a peaceful retreat compared to busier northern Thai destinations.

Mae Salong's history centered on the opium trade of the Golden Triangle. The 93rd Division of the Chinese Nationalist Army refused to surrender after the Kuomintang government was routed in 1949, with 12,000 soldiers escaping from Yunnan to Burma. While thousands moved to Thailand in 1961, the soldiers who settled in Mae Salong maintained it as a military base, funding arms purchases through opium production with tacit CIA approval. In the 1970s, the Thai government offered these battle-hardened soldiers legitimacy and Thai citizenship in exchange for help fighting Thailand's communist insurgents. The soldiers ceased opium production in favor of mushrooms and oolong tea, now Mae Salong's main product.

Peak tourist season is December through February when the hills bloom with white plum blossoms and pinkish sakura cherry blossoms. In November, sunflowers bloom across the hillsides. Tea production gets into gear toward the end of this season, with the smell of roasting tea wafting through the streets. The rainy season runs from June to October and is rainy indeed. Pack a sweater and decent shoes during the cool season.

As most residents are descended from Kuomintang soldiers who fled Yunnan, the Yunnan dialect of Mandarin is widely spoken here. However, virtually everybody speaks Thai as well, making communication straightforward for Thai speakers.

Mae Salong is accessible by road from Chiang Rai Province. The village sits in the mountains and can be reached by songthaew (shared pickup truck) or private vehicle. The journey involves winding mountain roads through the Northern Thailand highlands.

The village is compact enough to explore on foot. Local guesthouses can arrange treks on foot or by horse for 400 baht for 4 hours. Scooters can be rented for independent exploration of tea plantations and surrounding tribal villages. Satellite imagery on Google Maps helps navigate previously unmapped trails.

The Chinese Martyrs' Memorial Museum honors the Kuomintang settlers who fought for Thailand, with exhibits in Thai, Chinese, and English. The Phra Boromathat Chedi and Princess Mother Hall sit atop a hill with 719 steps or a winding road access, offering views across town and toward Myanmar. The Tomb of General Tuan Xi-Wen marks the mausoleum of Mae Salong's founder. Trekking to Akha tribal villages is popular, with local guesthouses arranging 4-hour horse treks for 400 baht. The Khun Sa Old Camp in a nearby village shows how the drug trade helped the community, though a local guide is needed to open the buildings.

Mae Salong's signature product is excellent local oolong tea, originally imported from Taiwan and grown on plantations throughout the area. Tea grades range from 200 to 1,000 baht per 100g at producers like Wang Put Tan, who will happily serve samples. Tea sets from China, candies, and everything needed for Chinese-style tea service are available. Akha handicrafts, Yunnanese street snacks, and cheap Chinese imports can be found at the Morning Market (opens at dawn, most action over by 08:00) and the afternoon Tourist Market on the south side of town. Coffee grown in surrounding villages is harder to find—ask in villages where you see drying coffee beans.

Take a break from Thai food and try Yunnanese cuisine. Dishes worth trying include Yunnan noodles with dumplings, papa cake (baked glutinous rice with sweet or sour sesame fillings) found outside the Morning Market, and hot soy milk with deep-fried dough sticks (yóu tiáo) at the Morning Market. For the brave, bamboo worms are deep-fried and dried, tasting like crispy biscuits. The yam bai cha tuna is a fresh tea leaf salad with tuna. Yunnanist Noodle Shop serves 40-50 baht noodle soups with free oolong tea. For tea lovers, Sweet Mae Salong offers espresso, home-baked cakes, and pastries with great valley views. Those feeling adventurous can sample Chinese liquors with pickled bugs and snakes inside.

Outside peak season, supply exceeds demand and prices are usually negotiable. Budget options include Shin Sane Guesthouse (rooms from 200 baht), the first guesthouse in Mae Salong from the 1970s, and Akha Guest House (200 baht single/400 baht double with shared bathroom) run by Akha tribespeople who also arrange village treks. Mid-range options include Little Home Guesthouse (rooms 200-300 baht, bungalows 520-800 baht), Gold Dragon Inn (300-800 baht), and Central Hill Hotel (500+ baht). For more comfort, Mae Salong Resort (500-2,000 baht) is the most historic, formerly a KMT military training camp, with Yunnanese food at Sakura restaurant. Osmanhouse offers premium rooms from 1,400-9,800 baht.

Any opium warlord action has long since moved across the border to Myanmar. However, this is a border area, so avoid trekking too close to the boundary and keep your papers with you as there are plenty of police checkpoints. Aggressive dogs can be a problem in remote areas—usually lazy during the day, they typically ignore you if you ignore them. Carry a stick or have a bag to put between you and a curious dog. The pick-up-a-stone gesture works if threatened.

Doi Tung to the north features royal development projects. Mae Sai is the gateway to Myanmar. Thaton offers rafting on the Kok River. Ban Rak Thai is another Kuomintang village with similar Yunnanese heritage.