Awashima

Awashima is a remote island off the coast of Murakami in Niigata Prefecture with just 365 residents. It offers pristine beaches, bird watching, horse farm visits, and the unique local dish Wappani that can only be found on the island. The island provides a genuine escape from Japan's urban centres with no crowds, limited tourist infrastructure, and a strong sense of local community.

First settled in the Jomon Period, Awashima was long the last frontier for Japan's northern clans and inhabited by the Emishi, an ethnic group of non-Yamato and Ainu people. The Emishi were gradually pushed out by pirates and traders, making Awashima a hub for trade heading to Tohoku. The island was greatly impacted by the 1964 Niigata earthquake when many structures were destroyed by flooding. Today Awashima is an Important Birding Area and its economy centres on seasonal tourism and fishing, earning a reputation for exceptionally fresh seafood.

Access to Awashima is exclusively by ferry or catamaran departing from Iwafune in Murakami. Awashimakisan operates the routes (tel. +81 254-55-2131, https://awashimakisen.co.jp/schedule.html). High-speed catamaran takes 60 minutes and costs ¥3860 for adults, ¥1940 for children. The slower ferry takes 85 minutes and costs ¥1910 for adults, ¥960 for children. The port is in the centre of Uchiura on the island's east coast.

The port at Uchiura serves as the island's main hub, with the rest of Awashima accessible from there. The Awashima Information Centre (粟島観光案内所) near the port offers bike rentals for exploring the island's two main settlements: Uchiura on the east coast and Kamaya on the west coast. There is no public bus service; cycling or walking are the main land-based options.

Sea bream is freshest in May and June when it is spawning season. Most guesthouses offer dinner included in the rate. Summer brings more visitors to the beaches, while the island is very quiet off-season. The Awashimaura Village Museum opens 09:00-16:00 in July-August and 10:00-16:00 in September-June.

The Awashimaura Village Museum (粟島浦村資料館, 158 Uchiura) displays ancient wooden fishing boats, fishing gear, Jomon pottery, and stone tools for ¥200 adults, ¥100 children. Hotokezaki Observatory (ほとけざき天文台) offers free entry and is considered the island's best sunset spot, open at all times. Kanon-ji (観音寺) is the island's main temple home to an ancient Itabi stupa. Makihira (牧平) is a former horse pasture now used for bird watching.

Awashima Farm (あわしま牧場) near Uchiura campsite offers horse experiences: ¥200 per minute with staff pulling the horse, ¥2000 for a farm tour, ¥100 per minute for independent riding lessons. Otohime no Yu (おと姫の湯, 1513-20 Hinomiyama) is a large onsen open 11:30-19:00, closed Tuesday and Thursday, charging ¥400 for adults and ¥200 for children.

Awashimabaitenkumiai (粟島売店組合) beside the village hall opens 7:30-15:00 daily, selling souvenirs, fishing gear, and locally harvested seaweed and sweets. Shop Kinbei (おみやげ きんべい, 1085 Kamaya) on the island's eastern side offers seaweed, dried octopus, and other souvenirs—this is the only store on that side of the island.

Wappani is Awashima's signature dish—cooked fish, miso, and negi (Japanese onion) served in a cedar wappa bowl with hot water and a burnt stone that boils the contents at your table. Most guesthouses include dinner. Kamome Shokudo (かもめ食堂, 1099 Kamaya) serves soba dishes for ¥1000. Mikayoka (みやこや食堂) offers Wappani, sashimi, and ramen for ¥700. Zensaburo (善三郎) has a daily set meal for ¥850. Cafe Sosodo (カフェ そそど, 1513-10 Hinomiyama) is the island's most fashionable cafe serving cutlet, curry, and croquette, open 11:30-15:30 and 18:00-21:00, closed Tuesdays. Sake Awashima and potato sucho are the island's only alcoholic beverages, both described as having clean tastes.

Accommodation options are limited on this small island. Uchiura Camping Ground (内浦キャンプ場) south of town is free, has toilets and showers, and is the more touristy option. Kamaya Camping Ground is also free but dirtier with fewer amenities, appealing to those seeking solitude. Minshuku Goto (後藤) and Kohagi (小萩) each charge ¥7700 per adult with meals, ¥6600 children with meals, ¥4500 without meals. Kanehira Ryokan (かねひら旅館) costs ¥9000 adults with meals. Minatoya (みなとや, 121 Uchiura) charges ¥8000 adults with meals and ¥5600 children with meals, run by a former chanko chef. Miyoshi (三吉, 136 Uchiura, 7 min walk south of port) offers ¥7700 with meals and includes yukata and communal baths. Omusubi House (じんきち, 117 Uchiura) costs ¥4500 weekdays and ¥5000 weekends.

Pocket WiFi works on the island and can be rented in Niigata city. Most accommodation options provide free WiFi for guests.

The only way off Awashima is by boat back to Murakami. From Murakami station, the Uetsu Line goes north to Tsuruoka and Sakata in Yamagata Prefecture (about 1 hour), serving as jumping-off points for Dewa Sanzan temples. Sakata also has ferries to the even smaller Tobishima island. Heading south, Niigata City is one hour from Murakami with ferries to Sado Island. To travel east from Awashima, depart from Sakamachi station rather than Murakami station; Yonezawa is the largest city directly east, a two-hour journey on the Yonesaka Line.