Taganga

Taganga is a small fishing village 5 km north of Santa Marta on Colombia's Caribbean coast. It has great charm with surrounding attractions including beautiful desert mountains, natural flora and fauna, and access to world-class diving in Tayrona National Park. The village is a major jumping-off point for the famous Ciudad Perdida (Lost City) trek, and its beaches and laid-back atmosphere attract both local and international backpackers. It remains cheaper and quieter than Santa Marta while offering excellent diving, trekking, and beach access.

Taganga has a tropical climate with temperatures ranging from 22-33°C year-round. The driest months are January-March (2-9 mm rainfall), while the wettest period is September-October (114-134 mm). Water temperature is warm for diving year-round. The heat can be intense, so bringing "Stubbie Coolers" or insulated beer koozies is recommended to keep drinks cold.

Taganga is accessed via Santa Marta. Berlinas bus company offers shuttle tickets from Taganga hostels to Cartagena. DivaExpe (in Casa Divanga) sells bus tickets including direct intercity buses to Cartagena. From Santa Marta's Parque Bolívar, blue collectivos depart every 15 minutes or more frequently for Taganga at COP$2,000 (September 2021), passing along Av. del Ferrocarril and the Santa Marta malecon.

Taganga is walkable, but the road towards the Mirador viewpoint is curvy and narrow with no sidewalk, so a bus or taxi is recommended. To reach the seven small beaches outside town (15-minute walk), a boat costs COP$5,000 for 3 minutes. Collectivo buses to Santa Marta leave every 15 minutes from the malecon roundabout for COP$2,000.

Taganga has hostels catering specifically to backpackers, many with swimming pools and social areas. Divanga (Calle 12 with 4) offers beds from COP$29,000 in dorms including breakfast and internet, private rooms at COP$34,000 per person. Casa Divanga is the sister property with dorms from COP$19,000 and access to Divanga's pool. Hotel Oso Perezoso (Calle 17 # 2-36) ranges from COP$15,000 per person for hammocks to COP$28,000 for ocean-view rooms. La Casa de Felipe (Carrera 5A 19-13) is popular among backpackers at COP$15,000-COP$45,000. Note: Taganga has water supply issues due to political problems, so water can be scarce at times. Taganga also has a long history of belongings disappearing; bring your own locks and choose accommodation carefully.

Mid-quality fish restaurants cluster along the beach with main dishes starting at COP$10,000-15,000 (September 2021). Street food is found along Carrera 3 in late afternoon and evening: Colombian-style hot dogs from COP$3,000, hamburgers from COP$5,000, and typical snacks from COP$1,500. Fresh fish can be bought directly from fishermen on the left side of the beach in the afternoon and evening. Republika Taganguera at Divanga hostel offers French cuisine with a swimming pool. Café Bonsai (Calle 13 # 1-07) serves great breakfasts with freshly baked sourdough bread, yogurt, and granola from US$1-8. Babaganoush Restaurant (Carrera 1 no 18-22) above Tayrona Dive Center offers international cuisine with sunset happy hour 17:00-21:30.

Taganga is a diving hub with multiple professional centers. Poseidon Dive Center (Calle 18 No 1-69) is German-owned and considered the most professional, offering OW+Advanced courses at COP$1,300,000 with excellent safety standards and catamaran boats. Calipso Dive Center (Calle 12 No 1-40) offers unique Tayrona Park Safari with 2 nights sleeping in hammocks on a beach plus 7 dives for COP$550,000, and has a coral restoration project. Other centers include Aquantis (COP$580,000 for OW course), Under Pressure (COP$680,000 for PADI OW), Nautilus (budget option), and Tayrona Dive Center (oldest in town). A 25-minute walk north leads to Playa Grande, or take a boat for COP$10,000 (haggled, September 2021). Boats also go to remote Tayrona Park beaches like Concha, Chengue, and Neguanje. The Hike to Bonito Gordo and Bahia Concha requires a full day and possibly a local guide. Mountain biking is available through Elemento Outdoor (Calle 18 #3-31) near the football pitch.

There is a small internet cafe one block west of the police station and ATM. Hotel Oso Perezoso's rooftop bar offers WiFi for COP$5,000 extra. Many hostels including Divanga and La Tortuga offer free WiFi. Colombia uses Type A/B and Type C/F electrical outlets with standard voltage.

Taganga had a difficult period with drug dealers, robbery, and police misconduct, but the town has been slowly recovering with hard-working friendly residents. Standard precautions should be taken. The seven small beaches outside town are connected by poorly lit walking paths through vegetation; do not walk alone late at night and consider taking a boat (COP$5,000, 3 minutes). Avoid hiking to Playa Grande after sunset and do not flash expensive items. Heavy drug influence exists on the beach in front of Casa Blanca at night.

Daily backpacker budget in Taganga can be moderate. Accommodation ranges from COP$15,000 (hammock) to COP$40,000 (private room). Meals: COP$1,500-5,000 for street food, COP$10,000-15,000 for restaurant fish dishes. Transport to Santa Marta is COP$2,000 by collectivo. Diving courses range from COP$550,000-1,300,000. The main Bancolombia ATM in town is frequently out of cash, so bringing money from Santa Marta is advised.

Tayrona National Park is an unspoiled natural paradise with jungle, birds, ocean, and gorgeous beaches accessible by boat leaving Taganga around 10AM for El Cabo and Playa Cristal. Minca, a cooler mountain town 20 km from Santa Marta at 580m elevation on Cuchilla San Lorenzo, is reachable by bus for COP$8,000 or taxi for COP$35,000-40,000. Ciudad Perdida (Lost City) treks take several days and are best arranged through hostels or tour companies in Taganga.

Santa Marta is the nearest major city, reachable by blue collectivo every 15 minutes for COP$2,000 (September 2021). Tayrona National Park is accessible by morning boat. Ciudad Perdida trekking departs from Taganga. Minca offers cooler mountain scenery. Direct intercity buses to Cartagena depart from Santa Marta; Berlinas shuttle tickets are sold from Taganga hostels and DivaExpe.