Overview
Mitla's archaeological zones sit among the streets and colonial churches of a living town. Exploring the ruins brings ancient remains into close contact with everyday local life.
History · Architecture · Shopping
Did you know?
- Local weavers produce table linens, garments and Zapotec rugs.
- Family palenques roast agave, crush it with stone wheels and distill mezcal on site.
- Geometric stone mosaics form repeating fretwork across ancient palace walls.
Why go?
Mitla is one of the most important Zapotec archaeological sites in Oaxaca, second only to Monte Albán. Unlike other ruins that are isolated from modern life, the town of San Pablo Villa de Mitla has grown in and around the ancient ruins, creating a unique experience where archaeological zones and colonial churches intermingle with daily life. The town is designated as a Pueblo Mágico, recognizing its cultural significance and tourist appeal.
Get in
Mitla is about 30 miles (48 km) from Oaxaca City via a good road. Second-class buses depart from Terminal de Autobuses at Independencia y Cempoaltepetl (gate 10) every 15-30 minutes throughout the day for M$25. Combis, taxis, and buses are all good options for reaching Mitla from Oaxaca.
Get around
Mitla is easy to explore on foot or bicycle since most sites are in town and relatively close to each other. A taxi sitio is located on Cempoaltepetl at Independencia near the bus station. Mototaxis offer a fun, economical way to buzz around town. Buses and combis to Hierve el Agua depart from Independencia at Aquiles Serdán—get there early for a good seat, or expect to wait until the bus is full.
When to go
The best time to visit Mitla is during the dry season from November to April. Day of the Dead celebrations (November 1-2) bring special cultural events. The Guelaguetza festival in July showcases Oaxacan traditions. Summers can be hot and bring rain, while winter nights are cool.
Where to stay
Accommodation options in Mitla range from modest rooms to upscale guesthouses. Casa Lyobaa offers a peaceful upscale experience with a garden swimming pool and breakfast included at M$2000. Hotel Hacienda Don Cenobio provides modern amenities and large rooms at M$1450 with on-site parking and restaurant. Hotel Carmelita Mitla offers spacious, clean rooms with hot water. For a boutique experience, Casa Regina Oaxaca features large furnished rooms, outdoor pool, and spa treatments at M$2200.
Food and drink
Mitla and Oaxaca state are famous for moles—complex chile-based sauces served with meat. Origen Maiz serves traditional regional Oaxacan food with a variety of moles and mezcal cocktails, open 09:00-19:00 except Mondays and Tuesdays. Yälnadoo specializes in various shades of mole with generous portions; try tlayuda de tajajo for lunch or huevos entomatados for breakfast. Mi Tlayuda offers fresh grilled meats and tortillas with a loose interpretation of the 18:00 opening time. Local restaurants serve regional beverages made with corn or chocolate, and tepache—a sweetened fermented pineapple drink—is popular in the area.
Things to do
The main Mitla Archaeological Zone (Zona Arqueológica de Mitla) is open 09:00-17:00 with entrance at the Columns Group for M$90. The Templo de San Pablo is an 18th-century church built over Zapotec temples with underground crypts possibly representing a gate to the underworld. The Caves at Mitla and Yagul are combined into one UNESCO World Heritage citation—the Guila Naquitz Cave is 2 km northeast and Yagul caves are 12 km west, showing evidence of human domestication of the 'three sisters' 10,000 years ago, predating even Tehuacan.
Buy
San Pablo Villa de Mitla is known for its large community of weavers producing table linens, garments, and Zapotec rugs. The Mercado de Artesanias on Carr. Nacional 20 (open 10:00-17:00 daily) offers an outstanding selection of textiles, pottery, carved wooden statues, and alebrijes in open-air stands. Artisans often welcome visitors to their workshops, and artesania shops throughout town sell works from local artists and nearby towns.
Drink
Mezcal is high to an art form in Oaxaca, and Mitla has its share of palenques (small-scale family distilleries) where they roast agave pinas, crush them with stone wheels, ferment, distill, age, and bottle—all in one place. Fabrica de Mezcal Olla Zapoteca on Caraterra esquina Internacional (10:00-19:00) offers demonstrations of the mezcal-making process and a large assortment including flavored cream mezcals. Mezcal el Andador at Reforma 15 (07:30-20:00) is a small independent producer close to the archaeological zone, offering varieties from barrel-aged to about 60% alcohol (120 proof). The nearby town of Matatlán, just five miles away, has a bumper crop of palenques and mezcalerias for dedicated mezcal tourism.
Day trips
Hierve el Agua is a must-see destination with petrified waterfalls and natural mineral pools, reachable by bus or combi from Independencia at Aquiles Serdán. Monte Albán is the largest Zapotec archaeological site in Oaxaca, second in importance only to Mitla itself. Matatlán is just five miles away and is the mezcal capital of Mexico with numerous palenques to tour. Oaxaca City makes a good base for exploring the region.
Go next
From Mitla, the most significant onward destination is Monte Albán, the major Zapotec capital city ruins. Oaxaca City is the regional hub about 30 miles away with full tourist infrastructure. Hierve el Agua offers dramatic natural scenery with petrified waterfalls. Matatlán is the mezcal-production center just five miles away. Buses return to Oaxaca frequently from the Terminal de Autobuses.
Guide text adapted from Wikivoyage contributors under CC BY-SA 4.0.
Where to start
Sleep
Casa Lyobaa
Peaceful upscale guesthouse with garden swimming pool, very comfortable rooms and personal service. Breakfast included.
Price when recorded: M$2000
Sleep
Casa Regina Oaxaca
Boutique hotel with large, comfortably furnished rooms, outdoor pool area, spa treatments.
Price when recorded: M$2200
Sleep
Hotel Carmelita Mitla
Spacious, clean, comfortable rooms with tempermental hot water.
Sleep
Hotel Hacienda "Don Cenobio"
New hotel with modern amenities and large rooms. Parking available. On-site restaurant.
Price when recorded: M$1450
Eat
Mi Tlayuda
Traditional Mexican restaurant with fresh grilled meats and tortillas. Note that the 18:00 opening hour is regarded as a loose suggestion, you might plan for dinner at 20:00.
Eat
Origen Maiz
Casual restaurant close to the Church Group of the archaeological site. Traditional regional Oaxacan food with a variety of moles, mezcal cocktails, and outstanding views from the outdoor dining area.
Eat
Yälnadoo
Casual restaurant with regional oaxacan cooking, specializing in various shades of mole. Generous portions. Recommend tlayuda de tajajo at lunch or huevos entomatados for breakfast.
See
Caves at Mitla and Yagul
There are separate caves close to Mitla and close to Yagul. They are combined into one UNESCO citation. The two nearby sites constitute a single . The caves significantly predate the Zapotec culture and show evidence of human domestication of the three sisters 10,000 years ago (making it older than Tehuacan).
Before you go
Money
Mexico uses Mexican Peso (M$). ATMs are available in Mitla but may have limits; withdrawing in Oaxaca is recommended for larger amounts.
Packing
Bring comfortable walking shoes, sun protection, and water. The archaeological zones involve outdoor walking in potentially hot conditions.
Safety
Mitla is generally safe for tourists. Standard precautions apply: watch belongings in crowded areas and avoid walking alone late at night in unfamiliar areas.
Transport
Second-class buses to Oaxaca City depart every 15-30 minutes from Terminal de Autobuses (gate 10) for M$25. Mototaxis are available for getting around town.
Weather
Best visited November through April. Summers are hot with rain; winters are mild. The dry season offers the most comfortable conditions for exploring ruins.
