Puerto Escondido

Puerto Escondido is Oaxaca's premier surf destination on the Pacific coast, famous for the Mexican Pipeline at Playa Zicatela where international competitions are held annually. The town blends small-city grit with beach-town appeal, attracting surfers, backpackers, French expats, and party seekers. In early 2024, a new highway cut travel time from Oaxaca city to just three hours, causing visitor numbers to surge—Semana Santa overwhelmed the town's infrastructure, and much of this article may be outdated. The green vegetation surrounding beaches year-round distinguishes it from drier nearby destinations like Mazunte and Huatulco.

Puerto Escondido is less walkable than neighboring beach towns such as Mazunte or Zipolite. Most areas of town are a short taxi ride (40-100 pesos) from the beaches, though foot journeys can take 30-60 minutes. Taxis are the primary mode of transport between neighborhoods and to beaches like Playa Carrizalillo, which requires a half-hour walk otherwise. The mercado area and Adoquín pedestrian mall are central hubs for orientation.

The signature experience is watching the sunset from the cliff at the southern end of La Punta beach. Walk around the cliff to a small rocky beach, climb the grassy hill for panoramic views of both beaches—bring beers. Alternatively, observe surf competitions from the beach restaurant Los Tios, or simply enjoy breakfast while watching surfers at Playa Zicatela. For non-surfers, boat trips into the Pacific (around M$300) offer chances to see sea turtles and dolphins up close, with guides sometimes catching turtles for photos.

Playa Zicatela hosts the famous Mexican Pipeline and is reserved for expert surfers and strong swimmers—many drownings have occurred here. Playa Carrizalillo, accessed via 167 steps, is the most scenic beach for swimming and learning to surf, with few restaurants. Between Playa Manzanillo and Playa Puerto Angelito lies the best snorkeling area, where sea turtles and stingrays are commonly seen. Playa Principal attracts locals for swimming and boogie boarding but should be avoided after dusk due to safety concerns.

Beyond surfing, Puerto Escondido offers diving with Deep Blue (two-tank dive US$70, single $40) at their shack in Hotel Ines on Playa Zicatela. Try a traditional temazcal steam bath with temperatures reaching 49°C followed by cold water immersion. Thrill-seekers can skydive at Zicatela for M$2600 during high season, considered one of the world's most scenic drop zones. Fishing trips targeting tuna, marlin, and red snapper cost around M$1,000, with some operators including cooking your catch at a local restaurant.

The powerful surf that makes Puerto Escondido famous for surfing also creates significant hazards. Currents have been reported at multiple beaches, and even experienced surfers have been injured at the Mexican Pipeline. Swimming is safest at Playa Carrizalillo and Playa Manzanillo. The rocky area between these two beaches offers calm conditions ideal for snorkeling with sea turtles and stingrays.

Accommodation ranges from rustic beach cabañas starting around M$300 to hotel rooms from M$350-800 in the city center without air conditioning (600-800 pesos with AC, higher with pool). Dorm beds near the beach start around M$200, while hostels farther inland with nighttime AC and pools can be found for 200 pesos. Beachside budget hostels like Villa Bonobo offer private rooms from M$800 with ocean views. Note that prices have likely increased since April 2024 due to the tourism boom from the new highway.

Seafood dominates menus at beachside restaurants, with prices ranging from 15-80 pesos for street tacos at local spots like Chilango-Taco in Brisas de Zicatela. Mid-range restaurants such as El Cafecito on Playa Zicatela serve mains for 58-128 pesos, known for fresh avocados and good coffee. The hotel Santa Fe restaurant beneath a palapa offers ocean views with vegetarian options at 100-150 pesos. Nightlife centers on bars like Casa Babylon off Playa Zicatela for mojitos and BarFly for dancing until 02:00, while Congo Bar on the Adoquín features live music with cheap drinks.

Beaches should be avoided from dusk until dawn due to assaults and knife-point robberies—Playa Principal and Playa Bachoco are especially dangerous. Even during daytime, avoid carrying valuables on isolated stretches of beach. As of 2024, police have been known to stop tourists late at night and 'confiscate' valuables. Water safety is critical: the surf is rough, currents have been reported, and drownings occur regularly at Playa Zicatela. Stick to designated swimming areas and heed local advice.

Internet service in Puerto Escondido is surprisingly poor for a growing tourist destination. Service degrades the farther you are from El Centro, with Punta Zicatela being particularly spotty during high-season weekends. Even mobile data networks fail for hours at a time. Several internet cafes and coworking spaces exist, with Casa Losodeli & Coworking and Selina Puerto Escondido offering dedicated work spaces. Telcel provides the best mobile coverage in the area, with a tourist-friendly SIM store on Av. Oaxaca across from Chedraui supermarket. As of April 2024, some hostels have installed Starlink for faster but still unreliable connections.

Mazunte lies nearby with quieter beaches and less tourism than Puerto Escondido, famous for its National Sea Turtle Museum—part of the Pacific Coast Backpacker Route. Zipolite, Mexico's only official nude beach, maintains its hippie vibe from the 1960s where time seems to stand still. Lagunas de Chacahua National Park, about 45 miles west, features five lagoons, sandy beaches, mangrove swamps, a Mixteco archaeological site, and a crocodile nursery—best visited overnight to catch sunset canoe trips. Turtle sanctuary visits to Playa Escobilla between Puerto Escondido and Mazunte run around M$500 from July to September.

The new highway makes Oaxaca city a compelling three-hour journey by bus or car. Nearby Pacific coast towns along the backpacker route include Mazunte with its turtle museum and quieter beaches, and Zipolite for nude sunbathing and bohemian atmosphere. The inland route leads toward the mountains and markets of Oaxaca state, while Huatulco offers more developed beach tourism with national park access. Collective taxis and buses connect these destinations regularly.