Makarska

Makarska is the main city and resort of the 66-km Makarska Riviera between Split and Dubrovnik. It's backed by the rugged Biokovo mountains (a national park) and looks across a channel to Brač island. The 4-km traffic-free beach strip Šetalište Dr Franje Tuđmana offers easy walking, while the old town clusters around the harbour with alleys, piazzas, and the baroque Sv Marka Co-Cathedral. It's popular with package tours but retains character for independent travelers seeking coastal scenery and mountain hiking.

The Makarska Riviera stretches 66 km along coastal Highway 8 from Brela in the northwest through Baška Voda, Bratuš, Krvavica, Makarska, Tučepi, Podgora, Igrane, Mala Duba, Drvenik, Zaostrog, Podaca, Brist, to Gradac in the southeast. Makarska town had 13,834 residents in 2011, with most facilities along the beach strip. Hotels use Ul. Kralja Petra Krešimira IV as an address, but this is a service road one block back from the beach where coaches and laundry trucks unload; the actual bus station is another block further back.

Makarska lies on coastal Highway 8 between Split (about 1.5 hours north) and Dubrovnik (about 2 hours south). Croatia Bus connects Makarska to Split regularly, and Promet buses also serve this route. For Dubrovnik and Metković方向, infrequent buses run through the southern Riviera villages. The bus station is inland from the beach strip, accessed via Ul. Kralja Petra Krešimira IV.

The 4-km beach strip is walkable, with electric scooters weaving past. A road train runs every 20-30 minutes for families with children. Croatia Bus runs south every 30-60 minutes through Tučepi to Podgora (30 min). For villages north of Makarska (Brela, Baška Voda), take the Promet bus toward Split. For southern Riviera destinations (Igrane, Drvenik, Gradac), use the infrequent Dubrovnik/Metković buses. Taxis are fragmented among small operators rather than one large company.

Peak season is July-August when the beach strip buzzes with package tourists and water sports operators. May-June and September offer warmer weather with fewer crowds. The mountains behind town have hiking trails that are scenic but can be socked in by cloud—clear days are essential for Biokovo views. The snakes in the area are mostly harmless but include the horned sand viper (Vipera ammodytes); stay on marked trails.

Accommodation ranges from Hostel Makarska Subtub (dorm €30 ppn) near the harbour to mid-range apartments like Villa Buljubasic (€40-80) and Vila Ventus (€25-90), both within walking distance of the beach. Hotel Dalmacija Sunny offers 4-star B&B doubles from €150 on the beach, while Hotel Park (B&B from €300) serves package tours. April through November is the main season for budget accommodations.

Many beachfront restaurants are mediocre and tourist-oriented. Better options include Jež (Ul. Kralja Petra Krešimira IV 90, daily 12:00-00:00) for Mediterranean seafood and meat, Kalelarga (Kalalarga 40, daily 14:00-01:00) for fresh seafood and slow service, and Restoran Herc (Šetalište Dr. Franje Tuđmana, daily 08:00-01:00) for good food and service. Riva on the harbour quay serves seafood, while Susvid (Trg fra Andrije Kačića Miošića 8, 24 hours) offers seafood, steak, and Med cuisine—cash only. Ice cream costs €1.80-2.50 at stands in summer 2023. Bars and cafes line the beach strip; dance clubs cluster around the harbour.

Water activities (parasailing, jet skiing, motor boat hire) operate along the beach strip, including the Wibit inflatable water obstacle course. Scuba diving is available with More (Kresimira IV 43, €81.50 for two-tank dive and equipment, cash only, daily 09:00-13:00) or Butterfly diving in Tučepi 5 km south. Hiking trails in the Biokovo mountains are scenic and seldom crowded—don't leave marked paths. Rock climbing on cliffs behind town offers various difficulty grades. Rafting and kayaking on the Cetina River (30-min drive) includes guided trips past a cave where Tito's Partisans hid during WWII.

The Old Town stretches from the harbour through alleys and piazzas, pleasant at dusk, with the baroque Sv Marka (Co-Cathedral of St Mark). The Municipal Museum on the quayside (M-F 07:00-15:00, Sa 09:00-12:00, €1) has a small but interesting display. The Malacological Museum in an old Franciscan monastery at the south end (usually 10:00-13:00 and 17:00-19:00) displays seashells. Sveti Petar is a small island now connected by infill, forming an anvil-shaped peninsula with a bosky park, stubby lighthouse, old church, and nudist south shore. Vepric (Lourdes Makarska) is a woodland grotto 2 km north off Highway 8. Biokovo Nature Park (€7/day, €13.50/3 days, €33.50/7 days) stretches 36 km along the coast with limestone karst, the accessible village of Makarska with its Botanical Garden, and peaks reaching 1762 m at Sveti Jure.

Many places don't accept credit cards. Small exchange kiosks offer commission-free rates within ±5% of the official rate—good value compared to ATMs (which incur bank charges). Lidl is on Europske zajednice (open daily 08:00-21:00), with local chains Tommy Maxmarket and Studentica also available. An outdoor market for souvenirs, beach gear, and snacks operates on the spit of land at the west end of the harbour.

White beach chairs are stacked along the beach without clear signage about charges. Money collectors may approach demanding payment but are vague about amounts and duration, don't provide receipts, and may attempt to swindle you. If you refuse, they may threaten to call police but rarely follow through. Simply explain in English that you thought the chairs belonged to the hotel and were included in the hotel price.

Makarska and the coastal highway have 4G coverage from all Croatian carriers. 5G is available from Hrvatski Telekom and A1. The beach strip and town centre have WiFi available at cafes and restaurants.

Budget travelers can expect to pay €30 for a dorm bed at Hostel Makarska Subtub, €25-90 for private rooms or apartments, and €1.80-2.50 for ice cream. Meals at better restaurants run €10-25 per person. Diving with More costs €81.50 for a two-tank dive including equipment. Biokovo Nature Park entry is €7/day, €13.50 for 3 days, or €33.50 for 7 days.

Split is easily reached by bus as a day-trip, though it deserves a longer stay. Further north are Trogir, Šibenik, and Krka National Park. Dubrovnik is a must-see—excursions cost about €40 for non-guided tours picking up from central hotels; public buses are slow and sparse. Sumartin on Brač island is an hour away by ferry. Hvar island is better reached by ferry from Split rather than from Drvenik.

Split (1.5 hours north by bus) offers more Dalmatian history and urban exploration. Further north lie Trogir, Šibenik, and Krka National Park. Dubrovnik (2 hours south) is essential for any Croatia itinerary. Brač island can be reached via ferry from Sumartin or Split, with Sumartin just an hour away. Hvar island is best accessed from Split's longer crossing directly to the charming old town.