Hvar

Hvar is a Dalmatian island off Croatia's coast with about 11,000 residents, known for its imposing fortress above grey stone and orange cascading roofs. The island combines rich history—featuring one of Dalmatia's largest squares, the Cathedral of St. Stephen, and a Renaissance theatre—with natural beauty: crystal-clear blue sea, green hills, and lavender fields. While once a budget destination attracting young travelers, the island is developing with new five-star hotels and rising living standards.

Jadrolinija operates car ferries (approx. 2 hr) from Split to Stari Grad, while Krilo Luka fast hydrofoils (approx. 1 hr) go directly to Hvar Town. Bus connections from the ferry cost €2 to Stari Grad and €3.50 to Hvar City (April 2009). Jadrolinija also connects Hvar Town to Vela Luka on Korčula and to Lastovo island, while Krilo Luka serves Vis, Milna on Brač, Korčula, Mljet, and Dubrovnik.

Buses meet ferries at Stari Grad and run to destinations like Hvar town, operated by Cazmatrans with tickets purchased from the driver with cash. Taxis from ferry ports are described as a rip-off. Car rental costs about €47/day with minimum one-day policy, while scooters or mopeds run about €33.50/day. There are only two petrol stations on the island: in Hvar town and near Jelsa. A water taxi runs from Stari Grad harbour to the ferry for €2.

The season runs May to September, with August being the busiest month when large numbers of Italians visit. Lavender blooms in summer over large areas of the island. Hvar was once a budget destination but is becoming more expensive as tourist infrastructure develops.

At every ferry arrival, locals offering private accommodation approach passengers. Options range from budget apartments like Apartmani Grgičević (from €12) in Jelsa, 30m from the sea, to Anna apartments (€27/person) near the main square. Luka's Lodge offers beds for €16/night within walking distance of beaches and restaurants. The historic center features traditional stone apartments like Kuca Sofia, over 400 years old.

Local specialties include grilled squid with olive oil and cucumber salad. Wine bars dot the narrow streets behind the main square, with Prsuta Tri offering good wine, cheese, olives, and prosciutto. Teraca bar on Placa serves beers for €3.50 and drinks for €2.50 with views over the square and harbour. Carpe Diem at the end of the riva features cushioned seating and international DJs, though cocktails are made with flavored syrups rather than fresh fruit.

Rent a boat (5 horsepower) for about €47/day or take a water taxi to explore the Pakleni Islands—close, secluded strands of white sand, hiking trails, and pine groves. Climb to Španjola Fortress for panoramic views of Hvar town and the Pakleni Islands. A 2-hour hike along southern cliffs from Dubovica leads to winery Zlatan Otok for lunch, swimming, and a boat ride back. Adventure park in Jelsa offers paintball, archery, and beach volleyball.

From the fortress, you can pick up Italian radio on your mobile phone or tune into local Megamix Radio Hvar station. WiFi is commonly available at accommodations, with many apartments offering it to guests.

The roads on Hvar can be steep and windy with no guard rails, requiring extra caution—especially when riding rented mopeds that may be old with high mileage. Taxis from ferry ports are expensive; use buses instead.

Stari Grad, the oldest city in Croatia, is reachable by bus or ferry and features narrow streets and a charming harbour. The UNESCO-listed Starogradsko Polje (Stari Grad Plain) showcases ancient Greek agricultural development from the 4th century BC. Naturist islands of Jerolim and Stipanska are accessible by taxi-boat from Hvar town square.

From Hvar Town, Krilo Luka ferries connect to Split, Vis, Milna on Brač, Korčula, Mljet, and Dubrovnik. Jadrolinija ferries go from Hvar Town to Vela Luka on Korčula, Lastovo, and from Sućuraj (east of Hvar) to Drvenik on the mainland. Bol on Brač island is also accessible via the fast ferry to Jelsa.

The main beaches are used predominantly by clothed bathers, while small rocky coves cater to a mix of clothed and naturist visitors. Dress modestly when visiting churches and religious sites.