Larache

Larache is a quieter alternative to Morocco's tourist-heavy destinations, sitting on the North Atlantic Coast where tourists are rarely seen. The city offers a hassle-free, friendly atmosphere where you can explore crumbling Portuguese fortifications, stroll the waterfront, and experience local life without the pressures of guided tours or sales pitches.

While the city appears large at first glance, daily life clusters around the compact city center. Larache's strategic position on the Atlantic made it a contested prize among Portuguese, Spanish, and Moroccan powers, leaving a layered architectural legacy.

The Gare Routiere (bus station) is located 4 km south of the city center. Many buses on the Tanger-Rabat route pass through Larache, making it a convenient stop. Grand Taxis depart from in front of the bus station, with connections to Asilah (20 dirham, 45 min, 40 km), Tangier, and Ksar El-Kebir (15 dirham, 40 min, 35 km).

The city center is easily walkable on foot, making exploration simple and pleasant. For reaching the outskirts or the bus station 4 km away, petite taxis are readily available.

Budget accommodation is straightforward with several basic hotels. Hotel Malaga offers simple but clean and large rooms from 70 dirham per night, some with balconies. Hotel Hay Essalam at 9 avenue Hassan II provides spacious, clean rooms with WiFi and air conditioning from 90 dirham (116 dirham with bathroom); booking directly is cheaper than online. Hotel Espana offers single rooms from 240 dirham with WiFi.

Local eating options include bakeries like Bakery Rabah and juice stores scattered throughout the city. Several sandwich places serve what locals claim is some of the best shawarma in Morocco (see OpenStreetMap for locations). Restaurants also offer Western-style food including pizzerias and spaghetti. For drinks, Cafe Valencia and Cafe Triana are popular spots around Place de la Liberation, offering tea and coffee in the lively evening atmosphere.

The 16th-century Portuguese Kasbah offers crumbling walls with good views of the Atlantic Ocean despite its deteriorating state. The ruins of Lixus lie 8 km along the road toward Asilah, providing ancient archaeological interest. Visitors can stroll the waterfront or join locals swimming at the harbor's stone barriers. After sunset until 10PM, the streets fill with locals; grabbing a tea at one of the cafes around Place de la Liberation is the social heart of evening life.

Asilah makes an excellent day trip from Larache, reachable by Grand Taxi in 45 minutes for 20 dirham. The coastal town is known for its arts scene and whitewashed buildings. Tangier is another natural onward destination, reachable via the bus route heading north.

Many cafes in the city center offer free WiFi, notably Cafe Valencia and Cafe Triana. A couple of cyber cafes also provide internet access for those needing reliable connectivity.