Kanazawa

Kanazawa is one of Japan's hidden jewels—a historic city in Ishikawa prefecture with one of the best-preserved major Edo-period layouts in the country. Its relatively remote location on the "wrong" side of the island from the Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka tourist trail has kept foreign tourists away, but the samurai districts, geisha quarters, and Kenroku-en garden are exceptional. The 2015 opening of the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo has increased visitor numbers while keeping the city less crowded than Kyoto.

Kanazawa has been shaped by the samurai, merchants, geisha, and feudal lords whose legacies fill the compact, easily navigable central area. The city is part of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network as a City of Crafts and Folk Art. Don't leave without seeing the gold leaf craftsmen at work—many are over 90 years old and still putting in a full day's work. English language ability tends to be more limited than in Kyoto and Nara, but locals will go to great lengths to help visitors.

Kanazawa can get a lot of rain—it's "the Seattle of Japan". A local proverb says "even if you forget your lunchbox, don't forget your umbrella". Winters are cold with heavy snowfall from Siberian winds as part of the Snow Country region; half a meter or more is not uncommon. A common sight during winter is the ropes (called yukizuri) hanging from poles to help tree branches support heavy snow. Spring and autumn offer beautiful weather but can be unpredictable.

Kanazawa is accessible via the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo (about 2.5 hours), and the line connects north to Toyama. The city is also reachable by bus and conventional train lines. The Hokuriku Expressway provides road access from Fukui and Toyama directions.

Kanazawa's central area is compact and easily navigable on foot. The city has bus services connecting major attractions, and bicycle rental is available at some accommodations. The main areas—Kenroku-en, the samurai district, geisha quarters, and castle grounds—are all within walking distance of each other.

English is not as widely spoken as in larger cities, and many restaurants will only have Japanese menus. Even hotel reception staff might struggle with English. A big smile and patience will work wonders. Waitstaff may speak some basic English if given a chance to overcome nervousness.

The largest concentration of hotels is around Kanazawa Station, including ANA, APA, Nikko, Toyoko Inn, and Route Inn. For budget options, there are guesthouses like Guest House Pongyi (dorm beds ¥2,700) and ryokans such as Kikunoya (from ¥4,680/person) and Ryokan Shibaya (¥2,800-5,400/person). The Kanawaza Ryokan and Hotel Society runs a Yadotime booking engine available in English.

Kanazawa cuisine is famous throughout Japan, particularly its seafood since it lies at the meeting point of warm south and cold north currents. Famous local dishes include jibuni (boiled and seasoned duck with vegetables), winter crab (zuwaigani or female crabs with eggs), and sweet amaebi shrimp. The Ōmichō market (open 09:30-17:00) is the largest fresh food market since the Edo period, with restaurants serving fresh local seafood including crab and Noto Peninsula oysters. Budget meals can be found at places like Dai-Nana Gyōza (10 gyoza for ¥360) and Gyoza-no-Ōshō (6 gyoza for ¥180).

Kenroku-en Garden (¥320, free on Culture Day Nov 3rd) is one of Japan's Top 3 gardens, once the outer pleasure gardens of the Maeda Lords. Kanazawa Castle features the original Ishikawa Gate. The Nagamachi Samurai District recreates samurai housing areas with the Nomura House (¥500) and free ashigaru houses. The geisha districts include Higashi-Chayagai with the Shima House (¥400) and tea ceremony experiences (¥500-1000). The Ninja Temple (Myōryū-ji, ¥1,200) offers tours of 23 rooms and 29 staircases. The 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art sits across from Kenroku-en with free permanent collection exhibits including Jan Fabre's statue and Leandro Erlich's famous "swimming pool".

Kanazawa is famed for gold leaf production (kinpaku)—a small box of gold leaf fragments makes an interesting and reasonably priced gift for decorating cakes, food, or sake. Lacquerware (shikki) from Wajima, Yamanaka, and other areas suits all budgets. The Tatemachi shopping street offers fashion and good deals. Kenroku-en is ringed by tourist-oriented shops with keychains and postcards. Hakuza on Higashi-Chaya main street is a well-known gold leaf shop with a stunning platinum and gold leafed warehouse interior.

Tea ceremony matcha (¥500-1000) is served with sweets at teahouses in Higashi-Chaya. The Katamachi area (known locally as the Scramble) has bars of all shapes and sizes, with cover charges ranging from ¥500 to thousands. The St. Louis Jigger Bar run by Suntory is one cocktail bar without a cover charge. Machrihanish offers the best single malt selection in Kanazawa with draft Kilkenny at ¥900/pint and cocktails from ¥750. Nyumba cafe/bar near the station has draft beer for ¥500 and lunch specials around ¥900.

Kanazawa is a very safe city like most in Japan. The central Katamachi area (the Scramble) can get rowdy on weekends, with possible snide comments but little serious concern. Single female travelers should keep wits about them at night. The usual common sense rules apply.

Free Internet terminals are available in the underground plaza below Kanazawa Station, though often used by the local homeless community. The Rifare Building opposite the main station exit houses the Ishikawa Foundation for International Exchange (4F) and Ishikawa International Lounge (2F) with a small library and free computer use.

Tsurugi is a small town 45 minutes away, central for Shinto-related activities. Komatsu offers Nata-dera Temple with beautiful gardens. Noto Peninsula juts into the Japan Sea with spectacular rugged scenery. Mount Haku (Hakusan) is one of Japan's three most sacred mountains. Shishiku Heights offers freestyle snowboarding in winter with grassboarding in summer. Tedori Gorge in Hakusan National Park features 30m cliffs, a roaring waterfall, and summer rafting and canoeing.

North by shinkansen to Toyama. West by train or bus to Fukui. Takayama is another of Japan's best-preserved Edo-period cities. The Noto Peninsula offers dramatic coastal scenery. Mount Haku provides hiking and spiritual experiences.