Esmeraldas

Esmeraldas is a working port city on Ecuador's Pacific coast with some of the country's most popular beaches. The city attracts Ecuadorian tourists seeking affordable beach getaways rather than international visitors. The atmosphere is decidedly gritty and untouristy compared to Salinas or Montañita, with warm tropical weather, cheap seafood, and access to surrounding fishing villages and mangrove ecosystems.

January and February are the driest and sunniest months, though also the hottest. The rest of the year brings frequent afternoon and evening showers, typical of Ecuador's wettest coastal province. Whale watching tours operate from Súa between June and September. The US State Department issued a 'Do not travel' advisory for Esmeraldas as of October 2019, citing security concerns.

Colonel Carlos Concha Torres Airport currently has no commercial air service after TAME, Ecuador's national airline, ceased operations. Overland bus travel from Quito takes approximately 4-5 hours. Bus companies including Reina del Camino and Trans-Esmeraldas operate routes along the coast.

Esmeraldas is walkable in the central area near the malecón and main plaza. Taxis are readily available for reaching beaches like Playa de las Palmas or the town of Tachina across the river. Local buses (busetas) serve surrounding communities at low cost.

Hotels cluster around the malecón and Playa de las Palmas. Budget options include Hotel Soberao (from $44) with ocean-view rooms and a pool, and Hotel Las Palmas (from $64) across from the beach. For longer stays, Diana on Cañizares and Sucre allows monthly rentals. In nearby Atacames, Hotel Tahiti offers rooms from $15 with pool and beach access.

Seafood dominates the local cuisine with excellent value. Ceviche costs around $4, while plates of spiced rice with shrimp and fried plantain run $6. Fresh fried fish with beans and rice provides filling budget meals. Lobster is available for $12-15 during season. For nightlife, head 20 minutes south to Atacames where kiosks serve cocktails and clubs play salsa, merengue, and reggaeton with covers around $2.

Playa de las Palmas is the main municipal beach with a boardwalk and food court. The Malecón de Tachina across the river in Tachina offers views of the coastal topography. The Museo Regional de Arqueología on Piedrahita traces local history with focus on Afro-Ecuadorian culture. Day trips include the fishing village of Súa for whale watching (June-September) and the Bay of Mompiche with its beach lodge and preserved nature.

The US State Department has issued a 'Do not travel' advisory for Esmeraldas as of October 2019. Travelers should exercise high caution, avoid displaying valuables, stay aware of surroundings, and stick to tourist-frequented areas near the malecón and beaches. Petty crime and opportunistic theft are concerns in this working port city.

Esmeraldas serves as a gateway to Ecuador's Coastal Lowlands. Nearby beach towns include Atacames (20 minutes south) known for nightlife, and Súa for whale watching. Further afield, the mangrove ecosystems around Mompiche and the nature reserves of the province offer ecological tourism opportunities.