Canoa

Canoa is a pleasant, laid-back fishing village on Ecuador's Pacific coast in Manabí Province. Popular with travelers and yet not overrun by them, it's an excellent place to chill out on the beach or practice surfing skills. The village offers a relaxed atmosphere with about 10 miles of mostly pristine, deserted beach. While Canoa suffered serious damage in the April 2016 earthquake and the hospitality industry is still recovering, this means prices remain reasonable and the town retains its authentic character.

Canoa is accessible by bus from several destinations. Direct buses run to/from Quito and Guayaquil, with two morning departures (06:30, 09:00) and two evening departures from Bahía de Caráquez. Buses leave every 30 minutes to San Vicente or Bahía de Caráquez. There is also a bus route up the coast to Pedernales, as well as direct connections to Montañita and Manta. For Puerto López, take a bus to Jipijapa and change buses. Bus company offices are located along Xavier Santos street in the three blocks before Parque Central.

The area of interest to travelers is eight blocks long and two or three blocks wide west of the main road. Buses from the south travel along Román Centenio, turn east on Xavier Santos for two blocks to Parque Central, then continue north. Xavier Santos runs westward to the beach ending at the Malecón and a large 3D CANOA sign. Street names are hardly used and street signs are rare, so the CANOA sign on the Malecón is the main landmark for orientation.

The peak surf season runs from January through April, offering moderate waves ideal for beginners and intermediate surfers. The 16 km (10 mi) beach break has no rocks, no reef, and no riptide, making it safe for learning. Note that the area was heavily impacted by the April 2016 earthquake, and the hospitality industry is still recovering with some businesses having closed and new ones opening.

Accommodation options range from budget camping to mid-range hotels. Camping Iguana offers tent spots at $3.50 per person in your own tent. Hostel Coco Loco has dorm beds at $12 or shared bath rooms at $16-28 single/double. Cabinas Ruta Del Sol costs $10 per person with double bed, en-suite hot-water bathroom, A/C, and swimming pool. Hotel Bambú on the beach rents cabins, hotel rooms, or tent sites from $4-20, with a busy restaurant and surfboard rental. Hosteria Canoa, 400m south of the gasoline station, offers hotel rooms at $35-67 or cabins up to $125 (12% IVA extra).

Restaurant options include Surf Shak on the Malecón offering North American-style food, breakfast from $2.50-5.50, burgers and sandwiches $4-6.50, with French press coffee and vegetarian options. Restaurante Costa Azul on the corner of Xavier Santos and Malecón serves seafood and chicken for $5-12, with almuerzos at $3.50. Samay Restaurant and Hostel offers fish, shrimp, chicken, and vegetarian meals for $5-7 from an high deck with ocean views. Hotel Bambú's restaurant serves breakfast $3.50-8, crepes $3.50-5, and meals mostly $8-15.

Surfing is the main activity in Canoa with 16 km of beach break, no rocks, no reef, and no riptide. Adicto Surf School at the lifeguard tower rents surfboards for $3/hour and offers lessons and SUP yoga. Canoa Surf Academy 1.5 blocks south of the CANOA sign rents boards at $3.50/hour and body boards at $2.50/hour. Beachcombing along the 10-mile pristine beach at low tide reveals beautiful tropical seashells. Rio Muchacho Organic Farm offers 1-3 day tours including horse treks to howler monkey forests, waterfall visits, chocolate and coffee making, and craft workshops.

The Canoa Spanish School at the Sundown Inn on the beach offers intensive Spanish learning. A 4-week program including private beachfront room, all meals, and 80 hours of private tutoring costs around $800. The school provides a great opportunity to learn Spanish while enjoying the beach atmosphere.

Thefts are very common on the beach, especially at night. Do not leave valuables on the shore when swimming and be very careful if camping on the beach at night. Apply insect repellent to feet, ankles, and lower legs when going to the beach around dawn and dusk as a precaution against sand flies (Lutzomyia spp.).

Most hostels and hotels offer free Wi-Fi including Hotel Bambú, Hotel Baloo, Hostel Coco Loco, and Sundown Beach Hostel. However, Restaurante Costa Azul specifically notes no WiFi. SIM cards and mobile data options should be arranged before arriving as Canoa is a small village.

There are several tourist shops in Canoa selling souvenirs and basic supplies. For banking services, note that there is no bank or ATM in Canoa itself. An ATM and bank are available in San Vicente, a short bus ride away.

Canoa sits on Ecuador's Coastal Lowlands and makes an excellent base for exploring nearby destinations. Direct buses connect to Montañita (famous for nightlife and surfing), Manta (major port city), and Pedernales (up the coast). For Puerto López (whale watching), change buses at Jipijapa. The village is well-positioned as a transit stop between major coastal destinations.