El Calafate

El Calafate is a town of 29,000 people (2020) in Patagonia, Argentina, grown from the tourist influx to see its world-class glaciers. Set on the glacial blue Lago Argentina, it is full of eager trekkers and nature lovers seeking the dramatic landscapes of southern Patagonia. The town serves as the primary base for visiting Los Glaciares National Park and the spectacular Perito Moreno glacier.

El Calafate's climate is cool and dry. Summers are mild and windy while winters are cold and slightly wetter. Temperatures can even drop to below freezing in the middle of summer while the strong winds, characteristic of Patagonia, make the temperatures feel colder than they should. Snowfall occurs from May to September. The cool temperatures average around 19°C in summer and 5°C in winter.

El Calafate is served by Aeropuerto Internacional Comandante Armando Tola (IATA: FTE). As often in Argentina, the ATM in the airport is broken and cannot be used, but there are plenty of ATMs in the city. There is some free Wi-Fi and electric plugs in the airport. Bus connections are available to nearby destinations including El Chaltén and Puerto Natales.

The town is walkable, with the main street (Libertador) running through the center. For visiting Perito Moreno glacier, there are three very expensive bus companies (90 minutes each way), leaving around 08:00 or so, and one company (Cal Tur) also at 13:45. Return time is around 16:00. More conveniently, a taxi round trip works well if there are at least three travelers. Boat trips can be booked at the wharf itself about 6 kilometres before the end of the main road.

Onelli Bay is a perfect site and one of the most romantic areas, around 70 km away and probably only accessible by boat. You could bring a lunch box, a bottle of champagne, and enjoy a relaxing moment in the lake. Wildlife viewing is excellent just walking a few blocks away from the main street, like in El Cañadón, or at Laguna Nimez where patagonic birds can be seen feet away. The Glaciarium museum is dedicated to glaciers and stands several kilometers outside of town, with a glaciobar serving drinks in ice glasses. The Centro de Interpretación Histórica Calafate tells 100 million years of local history, with dinosaurs, megafauna, and indigenous peoples as main characters.

You can visit many Patagonian estancias (ranches) to enjoy wild nature, perfect meals, and stay in the middle of nowhere. They are perfect to relax away from the hustle and bustle. On most estancias you can ride a horse. Recommendations include El Galpon del Glaciar Ranch, Nibepo Aike Ranch, Rincón Ranch, and Alta Vista Ranch.

El Calafate offers accommodation ranging from budget hostels to upscale hotels. Hostel De Las Manos is one of the cheapest hostels with 6-bed dorms, about 15 minutes walk from the center. America del Sur hostel near La Bamba features a panoramic view of the sunset, shared kitchen, and floor heating. For lake views, Mirador del Lago overlooks Lago Argentino with computers with free internet access. AMSA Camping near the police and fire station offers hot water and electricity. Fuerte Calafate Hotel offers doubles from US$75 including breakfast.

Food is expensive mainly due to the remote location of the city. There are several supermarkets in town, including a big chain (Anonima) at the Eastern end of the main street with fair prices, open until at least 21:00 (except Sunday). La Tablita is the first restaurant locals mention, serving steaks and grilled Patagonian lamb. Mi Rancho is considered possibly the best restaurant—making a reservation is advisable. For budget eating, La Chancha y los 20 at Libertador 1250 serves generous brochettes, and Pizzeria La Lechuza offers empanadas, pizza, and milanesas. La Tienda de Vinos is a wine shop with a bar allowing tastings.

Buy your food for tours in advance because on Ruta 40 and in the glacier national park there are almost no places to buy food. Handicraft and souvenirs can be bought in large scale on the main street. There are plenty of ATMs on the main street, though not all are working or have cash—you will find one that delivers.

Nearby El Chaltén provides excellent hiking possibilities. Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine National Park are 3½ hours driving from El Calafate and can be reached by car or bus. If going by rental car to cross the border to Chile, you have to ask the car rental company to arrange the necessary paperwork and insurance.