Chàm Islands

The Cham Islands (Cù lao Chàm) are a cluster of eight islands 9 nautical miles off Hoi An's Cua Dai Beach, designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 2009. The largest island Hon Lao (1,317 hectares) hosts two fishing villages—Bai Lang and Bai Huong—while natural forest covers 25% of the land and wild monkeys roam the interior. For backpackers, the draw is snorkeling the coral reefs at Bai Chong, diving with PADI operators from Hoi An, and staying overnight in family homestays to experience island life beyond the day-tripper rush.

Access is seasonal: June–August are almost always accessible; January–May only sometimes; September–December the NE monsoon creates breaking swells that make the islands nearly unreachable due to shallow water (average depth 900mm) at the river inlet. Weather changes daily—mornings are calmer, with stronger winds and waves after 13:00. The old wooden ferry departs Hoi An public pier around 07:30 (not during Sep–Dec), takes 2 hours, costs locals 20,000 dong but foreigners pay at least 100,000 dong one-way. Speedboats take 30 minutes; wooden boats 1.25 hours. You may be asked to show passport at the Bien Phong (Border Patrol) checkpoint at the river inlet. Tours operate May–August only.

Day trippers traveling with a dive operator receive a snorkeling permit issued by the Cu Lao Cham MPA for 30,000 dong per tourist—this is the easiest way to pay the fee. The islands charge entry; diving and snorkeling activities require this permit.

Most tourists travel on boats operated by dive companies or ferry services. On land, the road between the two villages (Bai Lang and Bai Huong) is the only permitted hiking route. Travel between villages and beaches is best done on foot.

Island forests are beautiful and host a large wild monkey population; natural forest covers about 25% of Hon Lao. Hiking is permitted only on the road between the two villages. The Hai Tang Pagoda, boat shelter, and local Bai Lang market are stops on organized tours. Bai Chong beach offers swimming and coral reef snorkeling.

Bai Lang, the larger village, has a few restaurants catering to visitors. Bai Huong, the smaller village, has only one or two small coffee shops. Lunch is typically included in organized tour packages at local island restaurants.

Homestay Bai Huong in the fishing village offers 2-day sustainable tours including snorkeling, trekking, and cultural exchange with local families for 440,000 dong. Karma Waters provides homestays in private village homes at Bai Huong for USD120/person including all vegetarian meals and return boat. Note: Chinese, Hong Kong, and Macau passport holders are not permitted to stay overnight on the islands.

NE monsoon season (September–December) makes the islands almost inaccessible due to shallow water and breaking swells. Summertime squalls are frequent in late afternoons—watch for dark clouds forming over Laos and avoid being caught on unsafe boats. Few Vietnamese boats operate to international safety standards or are designed for rough waters. Check weather daily; mornings are calmer.

Return to Hoi An (2 hours by ferry, 30 min by speedboat) for the UNESCO-protected Old Town, tailors, and Vietnamese cooking classes. My Son, 40 km west of Hoi An, offers Champa temple ruins for more adventure. Da Nang, the nearest major city with an airport, is a gateway for onward travel.