Zadar

Zadar is the oldest continuously inhabited city in Croatia and the cultural heart of northern Dalmatia. Named 'entertainment center of the Adriatic' by The Times and 'Croatia's new capital of cool' by The Guardian in 2017, it offers a compelling mix of Roman ruins, medieval churches, and modern art installations. The city combines UNESCO-listed Venetian walls with innovative waterfront attractions like the Sea Organ and Greeting to the Sun, making it a richer alternative to more tourist-saturated coastal cities.

Zadar Airport (ZAD) is 12 km east of the center and has grown rapidly, passing 1 million passengers with 70 destinations, serving as a Ryanair hub for the region. Croatia Airlines, Eurowings, and Ryanair operate flights year-round. Airport shuttles cost €5 to the bus station and old town. Jadrolinija ferries run from Istarska obala to Italian ports including Ancona, plus coastal ferries along the Dalmatian islands. The bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Zadar) operates 05:30-22:00 with frequent buses to Zagreb (3hr 30min), Split, Šibenik, Rijeka, and seasonal services to Banja Luka.

Liburnija city buses serve Zadar with single rides at €1.59 (valid 50 min) or double rides at €2.65. Buses are relatively new and well-maintained. The Zadarski barkajoli rowing boat ferry runs from Liburnska obala 5 (Lukobran) to the old town from 06:30-23:00 for €1.20—mostly a tourist attraction now. Bike Station Ullmann (Blaža Jurišića 1) specializes in quality cycling gear including Rohloff and SON/Schmidt products, catering to bicycle tourists and mountain bikers. Left luggage at the bus station costs €0.54 per hour.

The best season for sailing is early summer with good S/SE winds in May and June, while July and August are calmer. Summer temperatures average 26-30°C with sea temperature around 25°C. For sightseeing, shoulder seasons (May-June, September-October) offer fewer crowds and comfortable temperatures. The city has 34 old churches on the peninsula, with St. Simeon (Sv. Šime) being the oldest. The Sea Organ and Greeting to the Sun light displays are particularly magical at sunset.

Budget travelers can stay at Sunset Hostel near the harbor (dorm beds from €10) or the Youth Hostel 5 km away in Borik (buses 5 or 8). Hotel Kolovare is the only hotel close to the city center. Mid-range options include Villa Nico on Krešimirova Obala with bus line 8 nearby, and Hotel Niko 3.5 km from the old town with panoramic views. Hotel Bastion is a boutique hotel built on medieval fortress remains with 28 rooms including 5 suites. Falkensteiner Hotel & Spa is a five-star resort north in Punta Skala peninsula.

Zadar offers diverse dining: Crazy Pizza (Stomorica ul. 1, open 24 hours) serves giant fresh pizzas. Konoba Tovar (Matice Dalmatinske 1) offers authentic local tavern food. Gušti (Zrinsko Frankopanska 20) has excellent crispy pizza with quality ingredients. 2Ribara (Blaža Jurjeva 1) near the Roman Forum provides decent food at fair prices. Restaurant Karoca Gre (Sutomiska 3) specializes in grilled meat and fish with large portions, reachable by bus 8. For upscale dining, Kornat (Liburnska Obala 6) offers Croatian Mediterranean cuisine by reservation only. Bars include Cocktail Bar Mango (Krešimirova Obala 12) with bay views open summer evenings, The Garden (Liburnska obala 6) with harbor views and an annual electronic music festival, and The Arsenal (Trg tri bunara 1) in a 17th-century Venetian naval warehouse.

The Sea Organ (Morske orgulje) is a man-made organ working with wave motion and 35 pipes to create a musical soundscape, free to experience. Pozdrav Suncu (Greeting to the Sun) is a 22-meter circle of 300 multi-layered glass plates representing the sun, illuminated at night. Climb the Zadar Cathedral bell tower for city views—the organ inside nearly survived the last war. The Archeological Museum (€4, cash only) covers prehistory through post-Roman periods. The Museum of Ancient Glass (€1.40-3) features live glass-blowing demonstrations before 16:00. The Museum of Illusions (€5.30-8) offers interactive optical illusions.

Dugi Otok offers beautiful landscapes, salt lakes, and donkeys at Telašćica Nature Park. Šibenik houses the UNESCO-listed Cathedral of St. Jacob. Krka National Park allows swimming close to breathtaking waterfalls. Kornati National Park comprises over 80 islands for peace and quiet. Paklenica National Park is perfect for hiking and climbing. Plitvice National Park features stunning waterfalls and lakes. Ferries also connect to Italian ports including Ancona.