Sivas

Sivas is a historic transport hub in Central Anatolia, 450 km east of Ankara at 1,278 m elevation. The city is famed for its trio of 13th-century Seljuk madrasas built by rival patrons vying for splendour, plus the 1919 congress hall where Atatürk cemented his leadership and launched the Turkish War of Independence. It serves as a major junction for trains and buses heading east toward Kars and Erzurum.

Sivas Nuri Demirağ Airport has two daily flights from Istanbul IST and SAW (90 min), plus a flight from Izmir most days. The historic Sivas railway station, modernized in early 2020s, serves both conventional and high-speed trains on routes to Ankara and eastward. Sivas Intercity Bus Station is modern and spacious, 2 km south of town on Highway D200. Shared minibus shuttles connect airport to city centre.

Town bus routes 1-A, 1-B, 1-D, 2-A, and 2-B pass Sivas Train Station; most lines go to the Coach Station. Routes 6-B, 6-C, and 11-B pass the historical Eğriköprü bridge; 2-A and 2-B pass Kesikköprü. Buses 5-A and 5-B go to the Tomb of Abdulvahhabi Gazi; 11-B and 11-C reach Cumhuriyet University. Taxi fares in 2022 averaged 6 TL flagfall plus 11 TL per km, with rides to city centre costing around 30 TL from the railway station and 40 TL from the bus station.

Sivas has hot, dry summers and bitterly cold, snowy winters due to its high-altitude plain location. Summer nights can still be chilly, especially when the breeze picks up, so pack cold-weather clothing regardless of season. The hardy wheat varieties grown locally reflect the harsh climate. Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) offer milder temperatures for sightseeing the Seljuk buildings and museums.

Budget and mid-range hotels cluster around Meydan, the main square in the town centre. Beyaz İnci Otel offers B&B doubles for 800 TL near Buruciye Madrasa. Behram Paşa Otel occupies a atmospheric 16th-century caravanserai with B&B doubles at 1,400 TL, though internet is slow due to thick walls. Sultan Otel near the square provides smart rooms for 1 person at 3,000 TL B&B. The Ramada on the main highway 3 km out charges 1,200 TL B&B double. For spa seekers, Sıcak Çermik Kaplıcaları is a council-run geothermal hotel 30 km west.

Local specialties include Sivas Köfte (resembling pork sausage), Sivas döner, Sivas kebap, pezük pickle, sübüra, hurma, and yumurta erişte. Around Meydan square, Lezzetçi (open 06:00-00:00) serves Turkish favourites at 11-Aliağa Cami Sk 10. Other options include Serkan Bey, Komagene Çiğ Köfte Salonu, Serender, Pizza Point, and 3N Sofra. For nightlife, just east of Meydan are Rain Pub, Merkez Türkü Bar, Sis Pub, and Kervan Biranesi.

The three Seljuk madrasas are the highlight: Buruciye Medrese (1271) 100 m south of Meydan is free; Çifte Minareli Madrasa (1272) on Çifteminare Sk has only the gatehouse and twin minarets surviving; Gök Medrese (1271) on Gökmedrese Cd is free and open Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. Şifaiye Medrese (1217) 200 m south of Meydan is free and open 09:00-00:00. Sivas City Museum at Atatürk Blv 2 charges 5 TL entrance; Sivas Atatürk ve Kongre Müzesi on Kongre Cd (Tu-Su 08:00-17:00) displays congress mementoes, ethnography, and archaeology. Kurşunlu Hammam at 70 TL is a 16th-century hamam east of Behram Paşa Hotel.

Yıldız Dağı is a mountain resort 50 km north with ski lifts. Soğuk Çermik is a spa 20 km east on D200 near a lake. Kangal on the road to Divriği is the source of the famous Kangal breed of sheepdogs. Divriği with its UNESCO World Heritage mosque is 180 km southeast, reachable by bus or train. Kayseri also has Seljuk heritage and serves as the entry point to Cappadocia.

As of November 2022, Sivas and its approach highways have 4G coverage from all Turkish carriers. 5G has not yet rolled out in Turkey. WiFi is available in most hotels but may be slow in older stone buildings like the caravanserai hotels.

Eastbound trains and buses depart for Erzincan (on E80 route) and Kars. The Doğu Ekspresi (Eastern Express) runs east toward Kars. Southbound routes lead to Divriği (UNESCO site), Malatya, and Elazığ. Westbound connections head to Ankara via Kayseri. The D850 highway goes north to Tokat and Ünye on the Black Sea coast.