Kayseri

Kayseri is a sprawling industrial city of 1.2 million in Central Anatolia, 350 km southeast of Ankara. It governs Kayseri Province, which borders touristy Cappadocia, so many visitors pass through but don't linger. However, the city holds the greatest Seljuk legacy in the region: citadel, mosque-medrese complexes, and the great covered bazaar, all preserved and still in use under Ottoman maintenance.

Kayseri Erkilet Airport (IATA: ASR) is 5 km north of the city centre on Mustafa Kemal Paşa Blv. Turkish Airlines flies every two hours from Istanbul IST and twice daily from SAW; Pegasus has four daily flights from SAW; Sun Express operates several days a week from Adana, Antalya, Gaziantep, and Izmir. Direct transfers to Cappadocia are available with a board outside Arrivals listing official rates. Buses 101 and 271 run downtown every 30 min. Kayseri bus terminal (Kayseri Şehir Terminali) is 6 km northwest on Osman Kavuncu Blv, a modern building with toilets (coins needed), an Internet café, left-luggage storage, cafes, ATMs, and overpriced shops; better value is in the shopping centre 200 m west. Tram from adjacent stop runs downtown; taxis wait on the east side. Fares are 8.50 TL as of May 2023, payable by card. Kayseri Garı (train station) is on the eastern rail corridor.

A network of trams and buses is operated by the municipality, with timetables on kayseri.bel.tr/ulasim. Tram T1 runs from İldem northeast along Sivas Boulevard to Organize Industrial Zone west. Tram T2 runs from Talas southeast onto Sivas Boulevard then turns west to Cumhuriyet Meydanı. Tram T3 follows T1 west of centre and heads north to the present bus terminal and Nuh Naci Yazgan University, then east to the new bus station and YHT railway station (both under construction). Tickets must be bought beforehand from kiosks. Kart38 is a travel smart card with reduced fares.

Kayseri Castle (Nami Toker Cd 2) is free and open 24 hours; first documented circa 240 AD, extended and repaired through centuries, with only the 15th century citadel remaining as the inner bastion. The Archaeological Museum is within the castle, open Tu-Su 09:00-17:00, adult admission 20 TL; it has moved into the citadel and majors on Neolithic and Hittite culture. Hunat Hatun Complex just east of the castle is a 13th century mosque, tomb, medrese and hamam, commissioned by Hunat Mahperi Hatun, wife of Seljuk Sultan Kayqubad I, still well preserved and in use. Çifte Medrese ("Twin Seminaries") are two adjoining 12th century religious complexes north of the castle across Park Blv, named for Sultan Gıyasettin and his sister Gevher Nesibe, the latter medrese being a hospital with her tomb. Ulu Camii the Great Mosque is 200 m southwest of the castle near the bazaar, 13th century. The Ethnographic Museum (Mevlevi Cd 38, 200 m south of castle) is open Tu-Su 08:30-17:30 and displays town life in restored Ottoman houses. Atatürk House Museum opposite is open Tu-Su 08:30-17:30 and free. The National Struggle Museum (İnönü Blv 72, 200 m south of castle) depicts local events of the 1920-22 War of Independence in a former school, open Tu-Su 09:00-17:00. St Gregory the Illuminator Church (Necip Fazıl Blv) was founded in 1191 with the present building 19th century; currently closed. Virgin Mary Church (Meryem Ana Kilisesi) has served as storage depot, police station, mosque and sports centre and is now a library with free entry.

Mount Erciyes is 15 km south of town, a dormant volcano of 3917 m that probably hasn't erupted for several thousand years. The mountain resort area is a further 10 km south with winter skiing; there is insufficient lift capacity for the crowds so long lines form for short ski runs and all facilities. In summer, lifts access mountain trails but the summit approach is only for experienced mountaineers. Football: Kayserispor play in Süper Lig, Turkey's top tier, at Kadir Has Stadium (RHG Enertürk Enerji Stadium, capacity 32,800) 3 km northwest of town centre. Şirin Aquapark is 5 km east on D300 but has cold dirty water and only opens a few slides. A large cemetery with many historic tombs and monuments, such as the pepperpot Doner tower, lies north of the Hunat Hatun complex.

Kayseri Kapalı Çarşı (covered bazaar) is on the southwest side of the castle and is worth exploring even if you're not shopping. Supermarkets are mostly east in the residential areas flanking Sivas Blv. Handwoven carpets are the major touristic merchandise, but can be expensive especially if silk. Meat specialties such as pastırma must be eaten before heading home as most countries prohibit casual meat imports.

Pastırma is the local specialty: dried, salted beef covered with çemen, a caraway paste, served as a spicy starter, a component of main dishes, or as stuffing for börek. Elmacıoğlu İskender Kebap (Millet Cd 5, southeast foot of castle, daily 08:30-22:00) specializes in İskender kebap: döner meat slices topped with hot tomato sauce over pita bread, slathered with melted sheep's milk butter and yogurt, named for 19th century inventor İskender Efendi of Bursa. Kaşık-La (Osman Kavuncu Blv 370, 200 m west of bus station, daily 10:00-21:00) serves Mantısı: minced meat wrapped in dough strips, boiled, served with sauce and yoghurt, traditional Kayseri home food seldom found in restaurants. Bolulu Hasan Usta is a chain of coffee and dessert cafes with three outlets: near the railway station on Istasyon Cd, northeast of the castle on Ahmet Paşa Cd, and within Hunat Çarşısı department store off Sivas Blv.

Gilaburu is the local name for Viburnum opulus (guelder-rose), a shrub with intensely red fruit clusters. The juice is acidic, works as a palate-cleanser, but is mildly toxic; larger draughts cause stomach cramps and diarrhoea. Since it tastes more like "nasty medicine" than a cocktail, all sorts of improbable health benefits have been claimed for it. Bars around the historic centre include JJ within Wyndham Grand Hotel, Rafineri, Karman, Class Bar, and City Pub.

Kocasinan Blv just outside the railway station has a budget to mid-price hotel strip running west to east: Konak Kayseri (pretty basic), Imamoglu Pasa Hotel, My Liva, Lifos Otel, Newway, Nuzhet, and Novotel and Ibis (below). Ibis Kayseri is next to Novotel, run by the same chain, slightly cheaper. KLAS Atalay is 200 m south of Bent Hotel, a basic place occasionally clean. For town sights, Büyük Hotel (İnönü Blv 55, B&B double 800 TL) offers great value, 200 m west of the museum. Bent Hotel (Atatürk Blv 40, B&B double 800 TL) is clean and reliable near town centre. Setenonu 1892 Hotel (Setenönü Cd, B&B double 900 TL) is a converted Ottoman mansion near main sights. Novotel Kayseri (Kocasinan Blv 161, B&B double 900 TL) is a smart business hotel near the railway station, part of Accor chain. Ommer Hotel (Osman Kavuncu Blv 425, opposite bus station, B&B double 1500 TL) is big and modern, overheated in winter, pricey for what you get. Wyndham Grand (Tekin Sk 2, next to Twin Medrese, B&B double 1500 TL) is a stonking-great modern hotel dominating the view north of the castle with reasonable reviews for comfort and service. Radisson Blu (Sivas Cd 24, B&B double 1500 TL) is the slickest modern choice in town.

Kayseri and its surrounding highways have 4G from all Turkish carriers. As of November 2022, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.

Cappadocia west is a fantastical moonscape with Göreme as its main town, reachable via D302 through Avanos. Ankara northwest is the sprawling modern capital with many sights clustered around its ancient core, accessible via D260 through Hacıbektaş. Sivas is on the route to the far northeast of Turkey, and like Kayseri is modern but with historic buildings, accessible via D260 east. The Doğu Ekspresi (Eastern Express) train runs from Ankara through Kayseri to Kars via Sivas. The city sits at the junction of D300 heading west to Konya and east to Malatya.