Sihanoukville

Sihanoukville is Cambodia's primary seaside destination, offering golden beaches and access to beautiful offshore islands. The city has been dramatically transformed by Chinese investment, with resorts and casinos replacing the former laid-back backpacker vibe. While the mainland beaches have become crowded and commercialized, the nearby islands of Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem still offer pristine beaches, jungle treks, and relaxed atmospheres away from the construction and crowds of the mainland.

Sihanoukville International Airport (17 km east, near Ream National Park) handles limited flights via Air Cambodia to Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, and Ho Chi Minh City, plus AirAsia to Kuala Lumpur and Phnom Penh. The city is connected to Phnom Penh by bus (US$12-15, 4-5 hours) and to Kampot (2-3 hours). The railway station lies about 2.5 km north of the city centre. Minibuses to Bangkok via Trat cost US$35, and to Ko Chang US$25-30. Ferries to Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem depart 3-4 times daily from the tourist pier.

Motodops (motorcycle taxis) charge approximately US$1 per trip and will pile on two passengers with luggage. Tuk-tuks are ubiquitous but known for overcharging; trips to the bus station cost US$3-6 depending on negotiations. Car taxis can be called for US$5 to most destinations. Scooter rentals run US$4-10 per day, with fuel at about US$1.25 per litre from roadside stalls. Note that renting scooters to foreigners is technically illegal and police may issue fines.

The best time to visit is November to March during the dry season. April and May are extremely hot. The rainy season (May-October) brings cheaper prices but monsoonal rains that can cause flooding in the city, though Otres Beach often stays sunny when downtown is wet. Peak season includes Khmer New Year (April) when reservations are essential.

Accommodation ranges from basic guesthouses to luxury resorts. Budget options cluster around Serendipity Beach and Otres Beach, with dorm beds from US$10 at Onederz Hostel and bungalows from US$5-30 at Otres Beach. The Don Bosco Hotel School offers rooms at US$30-60 with breakfast in a lush garden setting. Sokha Beach Resort provides an international-class experience with family-friendly facilities. Due to ongoing construction targeting Chinese clientele, many beachfront budget guesthouses frequently sell out during peak periods.

Beach food stalls at Ochheuteal Beach offer grilled meats, chicken, and seafood with chips and a beer for US$3-4. Serendipity Beach has around 30 beach huts serving meals and drinks. The town offers surprisingly diverse cuisine. Local restaurants include Sandan on Street 10311 serving Cambodian traditions with 8 or 12-course dinners. Western bars like Star Bar (Anchor beer US$0.50-0.75) and Captain Morgan offer budget drinking options. Otres Beach has a relaxed vibe with marijuana openly sold at beach bars.

The mainland offers limited attractions beyond beaches. Visit Independence Beach (7-chan beach) for sunset views, Wat Kraom at the foot of Sihanoukville Mountain for a sleeping Buddha statue, or Wat Leu on the hilltop for panoramic views. Ream National Park (30-minute drive, US$2 by moto) offers mangrove boat rides for US$40 per boat. Kbal Chhay Waterfall lies 7 km from the city plus 9 km on a dirt track. The main activities center on island trips: ferries to Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem (US$25 round-trip), scuba diving (2-dive trips US$85-105), and snorkeling excursions (US$15 from travel agents).

Violent crime is extremely rare, but petty theft, purse snatching, and pickpocketing are common, especially near Serendipity Beach day and night. Criminals on motorcycles grab purses and drag victims until they release. Groups of children sometimes cut and grab purses near beach bars at night. The Serendipity area sees the most crime; Otres Beach and other areas are less concerning. Additionally, Sihanoukville has become notorious for scam centers where foreign workers are lured and forced to recruit targets online under threat.

The area code is 034. Mobile coverage is available through local SIM cards from providers like Smart, Metfone, and Cellcard. WiFi is widely available in guesthouses, restaurants, and cafes. Power outlets follow European two-pin (Type C/F) and US-style (Type A/B) standards.

Budget travelers can manage on US$20-30 per day including dorm accommodation (US$10), street food meals (US$3-4 each), local transport (US$1-5 per trip), and activities. Island trips cost US$25-50 round-trip, diving runs US$85-105 for two dives. Mid-range travelers spending US$50-80 daily can access private rooms, restaurants, and organized tours.

Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem are the primary day-trip destinations, 30 minutes by speed ferry from Sihanoukville. Ferries depart at 08:00, 11:00, 14:00, and 16:00 with companies like GTVC, Buva Sea, and Speed Ferry Cambodia. The islands offer pristine beaches, jungle treks, diving, snorkeling, dorm beds (US$7), and private rooms (US$15-30). Ream National Park provides a 30-minute drive for mangrove nature experiences.

Dress modestly when visiting temples (Wat Kraom, Wat Leu). Remove shoes before entering temples and homes when expected. Greet with a slight bow or the traditional Cambodian sampeah. Avoid public displays of affection. Bargaining is expected at markets but should remain friendly. Tipping is not traditional but appreciated for good service.

From Sihanoukville, travelers can head to Kampot (for Bokor National Park, pepper plantations), Kep (crab market, beaches), Koh Kong (border town, Cardamom Mountains), or continue to Thailand via Trat (for Ko Chang) at US$35 or direct minibus to Bangkok. Siem Reap (for Angkor Wat) is accessible by 12-hour day or overnight bus for US$17-18. Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem remain the closest island escapes.