Kep

Kep was Cambodia's premier seaside resort until the 1960s, when Sihanoukville eclipsed it—then civil war devastated the town, leaving hundreds of ruined French villas scattered through the hills. Today's Kep has reinvented itself as a Khmer holiday destination with affordable crab dinners, tranquil beaches, and an 8-km jungle trail through Kep National Park where monkeys and wildlife are common. The town is quieter and more authentic than beach resorts elsewhere in Southeast Asia.

Kep is accessible by bus from Phnom Penh (3-4 hours), Sihanoukville (1-2 hours), and Kampot (30-45 minutes). The Kep Railway Station is 10 km north of town; the daily train between Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville stops here. The nearest airport is in Phnom Penh. Local buses from Kampot drop you at the Kep junction, from where you need a tuk-tuk into town.

Tuk-tuks are plentiful for short trips around town (US$1-2) or full-day hires (US$12-25). Self-drive motorcycles cost around US$7 per day for a 125cc or US$14 for a 250cc. Bicycles are also available for rent. Some roads can be bumpy, but there is less dust irritation than in Siem Reap or Phnom Penh.

Accommodation prices are higher than elsewhere in Cambodia—expect to pay about double what you'd pay for a similar room in Phnom Penh. Budget rooms start around US$8-15, mid-range options like Tree Top Bungalows offer rooms from US$4-20, and upscale villas like Knai Bang Chatt range US$160-350. Budget dorm beds are available at Kepmandou Guesthouse from US$4. Some guesthouses offer hammocks with sea views for US$1.50.

Kep is famous for its crabs—the crab market (20-minute walk or US$1 tuk-tuk from beach) sells line-caught crabs for 10,000-20,000 riel per kilogram. Several seafood restaurants with terraces over the sea serve crab with fresh Kampot peppercorns alongside views of Phu Quoc and Bokor National Park. Fresh fish with pepper sauce costs around USD2. Local restaurants near the crab market like Kep Thmey Seafood Restaurant serve meals from US$3.

Kep National Park offers an 8-km circular jungle trail (2-3 hours) with monkeys and wildlife; entry costs US$1. Rabbit Island requires a 20-minute boat ride from Kep Beach (US$8-10 per person with tours, or US$20 for a shared boat if you arrive before 09:00) and offers cheap bungalows from US$5. Three major caves are nearby, including a swimming cave at Kompong Trach (30 km away) with limestone formations. Angkaul Beach near the Vietnamese border is a 45-minute trip—a clean, deserted 2-km white sand beach with six deck chairs. Lida Massage offers Thai, oil, or steam massages for only US$7.

The Crab Market sells fresh seafood, beachwear (about half the price of beach shops), drinks, dresses, and tourist items. Money changers at the Crab Market exchange euros, dong, US dollars, and riel at the standard rate of around 4,000 riel to the dollar. The nearest ATM is near the pharmacy. Veranda Natural Resort and Kep Lodge offer cash advances on Visa and MasterCard with a 5% service charge. Kep Supermarket near the Rabbit Island pier stocks wine, spirits, beers, snacks, and some Western food (07:00-20:00).

Kep's nightlife is low-key but enjoyable. The Jungle Bar on the hill behind the beach stays open late with a pool table and good sound system. MaMa Cambodia near Kep market serves inexpensive local dishes with a pool table and open-air bar. The Kep Night Market next to MaMa Cambodia offers small shops with souvenirs, Khmer specialties, and food. Baraka is a popular expat hangout with excellent seafront pizza and cocktails and an upstairs terrace for sunset views (closes around 22:30).

An unfortunate attitude of "milk the foreigner" pervades local businesses, making bargaining a necessity. Some roads near the Vietnamese border may be unpaved. The beach is generally safe for swimming in calm waters. Kep has one pharmacy (UCare Pharmacy) near the beach, open 08:00-12:00 and 13:30-19:00, for basic medical supplies.

Rabbit Island is a 20-minute boat ride away with rustic bungalows and a massage shack on the beach. The swimming caves at Kompong Trach (30 km) feature beautiful limestone formations and a nearby swimming cave. Kampot (gateway to Bokor National Park) is 30-45 minutes away. Ha Tien in Vietnam is a fishing hub with boat trips to Phu Quoc or buses into the Mekong Delta. Angkaul Beach near the Vietnamese border is a 45-minute trip to a clean, deserted white sand beach.

Ha Tien in Vietnam offers boat trips to Phu Quoc island or buses into the Mekong Delta. Kampot is the gateway to Bokor National Park. Sihanoukville is Cambodia's main beach resort. Phnom Penh is reachable by train or bus (3-4 hours).