Koh Rong

Koh Rong is a remote Cambodian island with 23 white-sand beaches and minimal development, offering a rare escape from mass tourism. The island is famous for its phosphorescent plankton that sparkles like stars when the water is disturbed, visible every night from dark beach areas. Jungle trekking through relatively untouched terrain and excellent diving and snorkelling off the beaches make it ideal for adventurous travellers seeking nature and solitude.

Until a few years ago, Koh Rong was an undiscovered island with only a few local families living from what the sea provided. Tourism slowly started around 2008, but the island remains deserted for the largest part. In 2012, new bungalow resorts and guesthouses began appearing at Koh Tuich, the main touristy destination. The island has been sold to investors planning an ecological resort, with development expected to transform the area. Local villages and tourism sites rely heavily on wood from the island, leading to severe deforestation from illegal logging.

Koh Rong is reached by ferry from Sihanoukville. As of 2012, two daily ferries leave Sihanoukville at about 08:00 and 13:30 from the port, both heading to Koh Tuich. Return ferries leave at 10:00 and 16:00 from the island. The trip takes about 2 hours on slow wooden boats with benches on either side and plastic rain covers. The roof is often accessible for stretching out. Expect to pay US$10-20 for roundtrip including pickup in Sihanoukville. The Dive Shop and Monkey Island ferries pick up at Monkey Republic near the Golden Lion roundabout at 12:30 (or 13:00 at the bus station with advance arrangement).

The main village areas can be explored on foot, with some marked trails available on OpenStreetMap. To reach other beaches, visitors typically arrange fishing boat transfers. From Koh Tuich, fishing boats to Sok-San cost about US$25. It is best to pre-arrange boat transport when booking accommodation to ensure drop-off at your intended destination.

The island can be visited year-round, though peak season coincides with dry weather. Chinese New Year is particularly busy as the island is a popular vacation destination for Chinese families, and guesthouses fill up quickly. Book accommodations well in advance if visiting during this period. The phosphorescent plankton is visible every night due to minimal light pollution on the island.

Accommodation on Koh Rong consists mainly of bungalow resorts and guesthouses. Koh Tuich is the main tourist hub with the most options. Budget bungalows start from US$7-10 per night per person, while mid-range options like Paradise Bungalows and Treehouse Bungalows cost US$20-50. Power is typically only available in the evening from 18:00-22:00 as most places run generators. Bathrooms are usually very basic, with water from mountain streams sometimes having a brown tone.

In Koh Tuich, the cheapest food options are Khmer restaurants in the village serving mains for US$2-3. Each bungalow resort also has its own restaurant with nicer atmosphere but higher prices. Beach BBQ fare costs US$4-6 at night. Most restaurants also serve alcohol; a can of Klang beer costs about US$1. Monkey's bar offers buckets and fire shows at night. Most restaurants and bars close by midnight.

Koh Rong offers 23 white-sand beaches for relaxation and swimming. Jungle trekking is popular, with marked trails leading from beaches near Monkey Island and Paradise Bungalows to other beaches. The Walking Man of Koh Rong (an Israeli guide called Gil at Paradise Bungalows) offers trekking tours from 1-4 days for about US$10 per person per day. Diving and snorkelling are excellent both off the beach and at nearby sites. EDM parties at Police Beach start around midnight on Saturday nights, with tickets US$10-12.50.

As of 2020, there is no ATM on the island. Several businesses in Koh Tuich can withdraw money for you but charge approximately 10% commission since they know you have no other choice. Plan accordingly by bringing sufficient cash from Sihanoukville.

In Koh Tuich, Wi-Fi is available at several restaurants and most hotels. 4G and GSM mobile service works in some parts of the island but not everywhere; for example, there is no reception on Pagoda Beach. Power plugs follow the standard Cambodian two-pin round format.

Koh Rong is generally safe for travellers, though standard precautions apply. The island has minimal infrastructure, so medical facilities are limited. Garbage and wastewater management is poor, with untreated wastewater often routed to the sea. Remote beaches may have limited emergency access. Swimming should be done at designated safe areas as currents can be strong at some beaches.

From Koh Rong, travellers can continue to Sihanoukville on the mainland for more amenities and transport connections. Koh Rung Sanloem is another nearby island destination offering a different experience with its own beaches and diving opportunities.