Sibiu

Sibiu is a charming medieval city in southern Transylvania that served as European Capital of Culture in 2007. The old town is beautifully preserved with three main squares—Piața Mare, Piața Mică, and Piața Huet—connected by atmospheric passages and stairways. The city blends German, Hungarian, and Romanian cultures, with 95% ethnic Romanian population today but maintaining Romania's largest German community. Locals are relaxed and friendly compared to Bucharest, and much of the city is pedestrian-friendly.

Sibiu is 280 km by road from Bucharest. The main train station (Gara Mare) is 500 m NE of the city centre, next to the bus station. For timetables, the DB website is recommended. Sibiu International Airport is 6 km west on highway 1/7, with buses (route 11 pink line is best) connecting to centre, or taxis costing around 25 lei daytime, 30 lei late night. Wizz Air flies from London-Luton, Dortmund, Karlsruhe/Baden Baden, Nuremberg, Memmingen, and Munich; Lufthansa from Munich; Austrian Airlines from Vienna. No domestic flights operate.

The compact old town is best explored on foot. For the ASTRA outdoor folk museum (5 km south) or Transylvanian villages, you need a bicycle (hire available), rental car, or bus #13. Booking a guided tour is another option. The main squares are linked by Pasajul Scărilor (stairway from Piața Huet to Str Turnului) and Str Ocnei under the Iron Bridge (known as the 'Bridge of Liars').

The Sibiu Music Festival takes place the 2nd weekend in September, with stages in each of the piatas and near the old city walls. Summer months (June-August) offer pleasant weather for walking tours and outdoor museum visits. The city looks especially charming during the pre-Christmas period when the medieval squares host holiday markets.

Budget hostels include Centrum Hostel (beds from 35 lei, 100 m from Piața Mare) and Old Town Hostel (rooms from 50 lei, in a 450-year-old building on Piața Mică). Mid-range options include Hotel Apollo Hermannstadt (from €56), Hotel Continental Forum (from €60) near the old town, and Hotel Imparatul Romanilor (grand 18th-century building just off main square). Near the airport, Ana Airport Hotel offers simple 3-star accommodation.

Food and drink in Sibiu is to a good standard and cheap by West European standards—expect to pay around €30 for two people with two courses and drinks. The main concentration of restaurants is in and around Piața Mică. Hearty Transylvanian fare includes 'ciorbă' (sour soup), 'sarmale' (stuffed cabbage leaves), stews, grills, and 'mămăligă' (polenta). A local specialty is a 'meter' of beer served in pubs. Vegetarians should enquire carefully as meat-heavy dishes dominate.

The must-see attraction is the ASTRA Museum of Traditional Folk Civilization, a huge outdoor skansen 5 km south (bus #13, 35 lei adults, 15 lei concessions, daily 09:00-18:00, allow 3 hours). Other museums include the Brukenthal National Museum (Dutch, Flemish, Italian, German, Austrian, and Romanian paintings) and the 'Franz Binder' World Ethnography Museum on Piața Mică. Climb Turnul Sfatului (Council Tower) for panoramic views (2 lei as of October 2023) or St Mary's Lutheran Cathedral tower for the highest lookout. Football fans can catch FC Hermannstadt matches at Sibiu Municipal Stadium (capacity 12,300), 1 km south of old town.

Sibiu is generally a safe city with a low crime rate. The main safety concern is petty theft in tourist areas, especially during peak season. The pedestrian-friendly old town is well-lit and heavily patrolled. Standard urban precautions apply—keep valuables secure and be aware of your surroundings in crowded areas.

Sibiu and its approach roads have 4G coverage from all Romanian carriers. As of August 2022, 5G has not yet reached the area. SIM cards are readily available from Orange, Vodafone, and Telekom Romania.

Sibiu is affordable for Western European standards. Daily budget for a backpacker: accommodation in dorm beds 35-50 lei, hostel private rooms from 50 lei, meals 30-60 lei per day for food and drink, local transport 5-10 lei, attractions 2-35 lei entry fees. A comfortable daily budget would be around 150-250 lei.

From Sibiu you can explore the medieval fortified churches around Mediaș, including UNESCO World Heritage sites at Biertan and Valea Viilor (requires own transport). Visit Ocna Sibiului, a bathing resort 15 km northeast with salt lakes formed from flooded salt mines. Drive south through Rășinari village to the Paltiniș ski resort, or east via Cisnădioara and Cisnădie for more village scenery. The dramatic Transfăgărășan road crossing the Făgăraș Mountains is a spectacular day trip. Hiking opportunities exist in the Făgăraș and Cindrel Mountains.

The medieval fortified churches of Transylvania are accessible with own transport—the best UNESCO sites are at Biertan and Valea Viilor near Mediaș. Other notable old towns include Sighișoara (attractive citadel), Cluj-Napoca, Târgu Mureș, and Brașov. Further south into Wallachia, Curtea de Argeș is an old fortress city. Bucharest is 280 km east via the A1 motorway—consider visiting before Transylvania, as Sibiu may make it look drab by comparison.