Sandakan

Sandakan is a predominantly Chinese port city of nearly 440,000 people in Sabah, Borneo, known for its WWII history and proximity to world-class wildlife sanctuaries. Unlike the Malay-majority rest of Sabah, Sandakan maintains strong Cantonese and Hakka Chinese cultural roots, offering excellent fresh seafood and colonial-era architecture. The city serves as the primary gateway to the famous Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre and Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary.

Sandakan Airport (IATA: SDK) is located 13 km from the city center with domestic flights primarily from Kuala Lumpur and Kota Kinabalu via Malaysia Airlines and AirAsia. Long-distance buses arrive at Stesen Bas Ekspres on Jalan Utara or Terminal Bas Ekspres Sandakan in Bandar Letat Jaya, Jalan Lintas Utara. Speed boats and ferries connect to Turtle Islands Park for those continuing to菲律宾.

The city center near the jetty is walkable, with most shops, restaurants, and the central market within easy reach on foot. For destinations further afield such as the airport, Sepilok, or beach areas, Grab taxis are widely available and affordable. Car rental is available for those preferring independence, while mini-vans serve routes to Buli Sim Sim water village 3 km east.

Sandakan can be visited year-round, though the dry season from March to October offers more comfortable conditions for wildlife viewing. The proboscis monkey feeding at Labuk Bay occurs at 2:30 PM daily. Note that Eastern Sabah coastal waters have nighttime curfews on vessels due to ongoing security concerns from Philippine-based pirates.

Budget accommodation ranges from RM 20-60 for basic hotels and hostels in the town center, with options like Hotel City View (RM 60 single with A/C) and Hotel London (RM 55-75) near Masjid Jamek Mosque. Backpackers favor Sandakan Backpackers Hostel on Harbour Square near Gentingmas Mall (dorms from RM 25, private rooms RM 55) or PAT'S Bed and Breakfast Lodge on Mile 1½ North Road (dormitory RM 29). Mid-range options include NAK Hotel from RM 118 and Swiss-Inn Waterfront Sandakan from RM 140.

Sandakan excels in fresh seafood and Chinese cuisine. Must-try restaurants include Restoran Ajmeer (award-winning South Indian food at Mile 3 and 4), Sandakan Curry House (excellent fish head curry at Mile 4), and Habeeb Restaurant (famous for Roti Cobra on Third Avenue). Hawker centers at Central Market (2nd & 3rd floor), Bandar Kim Fung Market, and Mile Eight Market offer budget meals in Chinese and Malay styles. Look for kuih (small cakes) at the markets. For vegetarian options, several Chinese vegetarian restaurants operate in shoplots about 7 km outside town near the Memorial Park.

Major attractions include the Sandakan Memorial Park (free entry, 12 km from city) commemorating WWII Death March victims, Puu Jih Syh Chinese temple (free, 8AM-4:30PM) with views of Labuk Bay, St Michael and All Angels Cathedral (RM 10 entry), and Agnes Keith House Museum (RM 15). Day trips to Sepilok combine orangutan viewing with the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre (RM 50). Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary (RM 60, 8AM-6PM) guarantees sightings from a wooden balcony in the mangrove forest. The Gomantong Caves are 100 km away with RM 30 entrance (plus RM 30 photo pass). Buli Sim Sim water village offers a picturesque stilt-house community 3 km east.

Turtle eggs are illegal but reportedly available at local wet markets—do not purchase or transport them as customs and police enforce strict penalties. Due to kidnapping threats from southern Philippines pirates, Eastern Sabah coastal waters maintain a large military and police presence with nighttime vessel curfews. The city center is generally safe for tourists, though standard precautions against petty crime apply.

Malaysia uses Type G power plugs (British-style 230V/50Hz). Most hotels and cafes offer free WiFi. Mobile coverage is excellent in urban areas; Celcom, Maxis, and Digi are major providers with tourist SIM options available at airports and convenience stores.

A backpacker can survive on RM 80-120 per day in Sandakan, covering budget accommodation (RM 25-60), hawker center meals (RM 5-15 per meal), local transport (RM 5-15 Grab rides), and attraction entry fees. Major wildlife sanctuaries add RM 50-60 each. Sepilok and Labuk Bay day tours typically cost RM 80-150 through hostels or travel agents.

Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre is the most popular day trip, where rescued orangutans are re-adapted to jungle life with twice-daily public feedings; nearby botanical gardens explain palm oil and rainforest ecosystems. Turtle Islands Park (three islands in the Sulu Sea) offers turtle conservation experiences with overnight stays on Selingan Island at RM 630 per person including flights and transfers from Kota Kinabalu (2017). Kinabatangan River cruises (560 km, the longest in Sabah) showcase proboscis monkeys, elephants, and mangrove ecosystems through tour operators.

Sepilok is the immediate next stop, 23 km from Sandakan, home to the orangutan rehabilitation centre and Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre. Turtle Islands Park in the Sulu Sea offers overnight stays on Selingan Island for turtle conservation viewing. Kota Kinabalu, the current state capital, is accessible by air or bus and offers Mount Kinabalu trekking and beach resorts.