Ranau

Ranau is a small dusty road junction township in Sabah's interior, primarily serving as a historical waypoint and transit hub. The town is indelibly marked by the Sandakan-Ranau death marches of 1945, where over 2,500 Australian and British POWs perished during the final days of WWII. For backpackers, Ranau functions as a practical overnight stop between Kota Kinabalu and Mount Kinabalu Park, with easy access to highland attractions like the Sabah Tea Garden, Poring Hot Spring, and Kundasang War Memorial.

Ranau is accessible by road, approximately 2 hours by car from Kota Kinabalu. Long-distance coaches depart from the bus stop for Kota Kinabalu (2 hours), Sandakan (4 hours with refreshment stop), and Lahad Datu. Local buses bound for Kundasang and Poring Hot Spring depart every 20-30 minutes from the same stop. Shared vans and taxis also operate along this route.

The town is small enough to explore on foot. Local buses to Kundasang (10 minutes) and Poring Hot Spring (20 minutes) depart frequently from the central bus stop every 20-30 minutes. Songthaews (shared pickup trucks) and taxis are also available for shorter hops around the township and to nearby attractions.

The Ranau area can be visited year-round, though conditions may be more comfortable during the drier months (March to October). Being at elevation in the Sabah highlands, temperatures are cooler than the coast. Early morning visits to the Ranau War Memorial are recommended to avoid the midday heat.

Accommodation options are scattered between the Mount Kinabalu Park turn-off and the Ranau township, mostly along the main road. Slagon Homestay is a family-owned B&B set in a beautiful garden in a village near Ranau, with transfers available from town. The Sabah Tea Garden offers longhouse-style accommodation. Budget travelers will find basic guesthouses and homestays at reasonable rates.

Open-air local eateries dominate the township, where you sit on plastic chairs inside or on the outside walkway. The Tamu (market) offers fried local produce like fried banana and other deep-fried snacks at kedai (stalls). Beer is available at restaurants but may not be written on the menu—ask if unsure. Traditional local alcoholic drinks include bahar (coconut sap liquor), montoku (rice wine), and lihing (sweet rice wine). Menarik teh (pulled tea) is a local specialty where tea is poured from height into a lower glass. Note that tea and coffee are served very sweet; say "tiada gula" (without sugar) when ordering. Pay before leaving is the standard practice.

The Ranau War Memorial is a cairn erected at the end of the Sandakan-Ranau death marches, located 5km from town down a driveway on the main road—it's not well signposted, so watch carefully. The Sabah Tea Garden (open 07:00-20:00 daily) offers light refreshments, meals, and factory tours overlooking the valley and mountain, plus longhouse-style accommodation and a small gift shop. A small memorial to British and Australian troops who died on the death marches stands next to the cafe. Sungai Moroli Fish Spa, next to the Tea Garden, is a community venture where large fish nibble at your toes for 15 minutes—a rustic experience distinct from European fish spas.

The Tamu (market) is the main shopping attraction for tourists, with a good supply of local produce and deep-fried snacks. There's a "touristy" stall that some visitors find dusty but cheap. Sabah Tea is available for purchase at the Sabah Tea Garden and can be found throughout Sabah. The small gift shop at the Tea Garden cafe offers tea and local products.

Kundasang War Memorial is a short 10-minute drive from Ranau, featuring WWII memorials in a highland setting. Mount Kinabalu Park is approximately 20km from Ranau, the base for climbing Borneo's highest peak. Poring Hot Spring is 20 minutes away, known for its hot spring baths and canopy walk. Kota Kinabalu is 2 hours by bus, and Sandakan is 4 hours away (with a refreshment stop).

Ranau is a quiet, small township with generally safe conditions for travelers. Standard urban precautions apply regarding personal belongings. The roads around Ranau are mountainous; transport during rainy periods may be disrupted by landslides. Evening travel on mountain roads should be undertaken with caution.

When visiting the Ranau War Memorial and death march sites, maintain a respectful demeanor appropriate to the memorial's solemn nature. Remove hats and speak quietly in memorial areas. When eating at local eateries, pay before leaving rather than after, as is customary.