Nikko

Nikkō is one of Japan's most ornate and historically significant destinations, home to the lavishly decorated mausoleums of shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu and his grandson Iemitsu at Tōshō-gū. The UNESCO World Heritage area includes three major shrines and temples, including Futarasan Shrine, founded in 767 AD by the monk who introduced Buddhism to the region. Beyond the tourist hot spots near the station, the area covers a quarter of Tochigi prefecture—much of it mountainous and remote—with countless hot springs, hiking trails, and lesser-known sights for those who venture slightly off the beaten track. The famous three wise monkeys carving (see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil) is among the countless intricate woodcarvings adorning Tōshō-gū.

Nikkō is accessible by train from Tokyo via two main lines: the JR Nikkō Line from Utsunomiya (about 2 hours from Tokyo Station) and the Tobu Nikkō Line from Asakusa (about 2 hours via limited express). The JR and Tobu stations are about 2 km west of the shrine area. Tobu Railway offers a World Heritage Pass that includes bus fare to the UNESCO World Heritage area. Visitors arriving by car can use the Nikkō-Utsunomiya Toll Road, with the journey taking approximately 2.5 hours from Tokyo.

The JR and Tobu stations are about 2 km west of the shrine area. To reach the shrines, take a Tobu Bus (bus stop 2C outside Tobu Nikkō Station, about a 6-minute ride), or walk following pedestrian signs along Route 119—allow about 30 minutes. Bus stops 81-85 on the Tobu 2C line serve the shrine and temple area. A Tourist Information Center midway between stations (591 Gokomachi area; +81 288-53-3795) offers maps, English assistance, internet access (¥100/30 minutes), and umbrella loans. The JR station sells tourist bus passes for the Nikkō area; a ¥2000 ticket provides 2 days of unlimited rides to the Chuzenji onsen area, discounted from posted fares.

Nikkō experiences four distinct seasons: autumn (October-November) offers stunning fall foliage with the shrine's ornate carvings framed by crimson maples; spring brings cherry blossoms; summer is lush and green but hot and humid; winter (December-February) is cold with occasional snow. Tōshō-gū and other major sites have extended hours April-October (08:00-16:30 or 17:00) and shorter hours November-March (08:00-15:30 or 16:00). The Kegon Falls area has seasonal hour variations, opening as early as 07:30 in summer.

Nikkō offers accommodation ranging from budget hostels to traditional ryokan. Budget options include earth hostel Nikkō riverhouse (¥4,000/night) overlooking the river with Western breakfast, and Nikkō Suginamiki Youth Hostel (¥3,112-3,667). Mid-range guesthouses include Nikkō Guesthouse Sumica (¥2,600-3,800) near both stations, and Nikkō Park Lodge (¥3,990/person) offering yoga classes and vegan dinners. Traditional ryokan like Nikkō Tokanso (¥3,600/person) provide cultural experiences with kaiseki dinners (¥3,000) and private onsen baths. For splurges, Okunoin Hotel Tokugawa (from ¥25,000/person) offers lavish dinners and garden views, while the Nikkō Kanaya Hotel (opened 1873) is Japan's oldest surviving Western-style hotel.

Yuba (ゆば)—the tofu skin that forms when making tofu—is Nikkō's signature food, found everywhere and especially good with soba noodles. Popular souvenirs include yuba (best fresh), tamarizuke (vegetables pickled in tamari soy sauce), and oddly, Western-style cheesecake and kasutera pastries despite no obvious historical connection to Nikkō. For casual dining, Hippari Dako on the main street (¥500+) serves yakitori and noodles with vegetarian options and multilingual menus. Sobadokoro Gen-an (¥800 set meals, closed W) halfway between shrines and stations offers handmade soba with tofu skin, chicken, or tempura shrimp in a quirky setting with violins on the walls. For dinner, Ramen Bonten (¥800-1,500, 11:00-21:00) near Tobu Station is one of the few evening options with large, flavorful bowls.

The UNESCO World Heritage shrines and temples are the main draw: Tōshō-gū (¥1,300-1,600, Apr-Oct 08:00-16:30) is the most extravagant temple, built 1634 for Tokugawa Ieyasu; nearby Yomeimon Gate features over 400 carvings and the famous sleeping cat; Taiyuin-byō (¥550) is Iemitsu's smaller but more beautiful mausoleum; Futarasan Shrine (¥200) dates to 782 and is the oldest structure in Nikkō. Lake Chuzenji and the Senjogahara Plateau offer 4.6-19.7 km hiking trails (1.5-6 hours), with special low-pollution hybrid buses to Senjugahama. Kegon Falls (elevator ¥550) is one of Japan's Top 3 waterfalls. Other sights include the Shinkyō Bridge (¥350 to cross), Kanmangafuchi Abyss with jizo statues along a river, and the Tamozawa Imperial Villa (1899).

Nikkō is generally a safe destination for travelers. Standard urban precautions apply in the town center near stations. Some hiking trails, particularly in Nikkō National Park around Senjogahara Plateau and Lake Chuzenji, can be challenging—stick to marked paths and check weather conditions before heading into the mountains. During winter, some roads and trails may be closed due to snow.

Free WiFi is available at tourist information centers. The midway Tourist Information Center (591 Gokomachi area) offers internet access for ¥100 per 30 minutes. Most mid-range and upscale ryokan and guesthouses provide free LAN internet in lobbies or rooms. Japan uses Type A and B power plugs (two parallel flat pins, same as US), typically 100V.

A backpacker can expect to spend ¥5,000-8,000 per day in Nikkō: dorm beds from ¥2,500-4,000, budget meals ¥500-1,500, local transport ¥200-500, and attraction entry fees ¥200-1,600 per site. Tōshō-gū alone costs ¥1,300-1,600. The JR 2-day pass to Chuzenji costs ¥2,000. Ryokan stays with dinner and breakfast range ¥6,000-15,000 per person.

The greater Nikkō area offers numerous excursions: Kinugawa (hot springs and Tobu World Square/Edo Wonderland theme parks); Yumoto hot spring resort (30 minutes deeper into the hills near Yudaki Falls); Kirifuri Highlands (waterfalls, hiking, skiing); and Akagane Shinsui Koen (Copper Hydro Park) in the far southwestern corner, billed as Japan's Grand Canyon where pollution killed all trees. Those interested in pottery or steam locomotives may enjoy Mashiko on the way back to Tokyo.

From Nikkō, connections lead to Utsunomiya (capital of Tochigi Prefecture), Kinugawa (hot springs and theme parks), Nasushiobara, Yumoto (hot spring resort near another lake), and Mashiko (pottery town). By road, National Route 120 leads northwest to Numata and Katashina, while Route 121 goes north to Aizuwakamatsu via Kinugawa. The Tobu Nikkō Line runs south to Tokyo Skytree via Tochigi and Kasukabe.