Kerak

Kerak is a small Arab city of 170,000 people in southern Jordan, famous for its magnificently-situated Crusader castle overlooking the city. The castle, built starting in 1140, was once a mighty fortress that changed hands between Crusaders and Arabs within 50 years. The city sits on the King's Highway, 124 km south of Amman, and makes an excellent stop for those heading to or from Petra. In biblical times, Kerak was the capital of the Moab Kingdom, giving the area layers of history spanning millennia.

Kerak has three bus stations; one is near the castle, while another is in the south-eastern part of the city about 5 km from the old city. Minibuses to Aqaba cost 1.75 JD and run roughly hourly, also passing through Madaba and Ma'an for Petra connections. From Amman's South Bus Station (Mujemma Al-Janoob), mini-buses leave when full for 2.25 JD (2 hours, October 2018), arriving at the station below the castle. A taxi up to the castle (al-Qasr) costs 2 JD, with a 20-minute walk back down.

Local shared taxis operate between the old city and the rest of Kerak for around 2 JD. By car, the roads in town are narrow and usually one-way, but the town is compact enough that you can park and walk to the castle. The city is walkable for most attractions within the old city center.

Spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November) offer pleasant temperatures for exploring the castle and surrounding archaeological sites. Summer can be extremely hot in this region. Winter visits may have limited access to some natural attractions like Wadi Mujib. The King's Highway route is popular year-round, but shoulder seasons provide the most comfortable conditions for sightseeing.

Accommodation options in Kerak are limited but adequate for budget travelers. The Towers Castle Hotel on Al-Qala'a Street offers double rooms for 25 JD including breakfast. The Karak Rest House, 20 meters from the citadel, provides the fanciest option in town with rooms at 27.5/40 JD including taxes and breakfast, featuring excellent castle views. The Cairwan Hotel on King's Highway near the bus station offers singles from 27 JD bed-and-breakfast style with nine well-appointed rooms. For those with transport, the Al-Mujeb Hotel is about 5 km south of town with satellite TV and refrigerators.

The Old City (Souq) serves as the commercial center with various local shops and small eateries. The Karak Rest House near the citadel offers beers at 2 JD and serves as a social hub. For excellent shawarma at low prices, head to Delicious Meal by walking down the steep hill toward the main road, turning right past the Circle—the sign is clearly visible. Kir Hebes, just down from the castle entrance, offers interesting items like ostrich and standard Jordanian fare in the 5-10 JD range, plus local wines and alcohol, with pleasant street-side seating.

The Citadel of Kerak (Qasr) is the main attraction, a former Crusader stronghold with admission at 1 JD (free with Jordan Pass). Allow 60-90 minutes to explore the underground passages and commanding views. The Karak Archaeological Museum is located in the lower court of the castle and introduces local history, though it was closed for renovations as of October 2018. Al Karak Museum sits just outside the castle entrance. The Roman Church Hall in the old city and the Prophet Nuh shrine (reputed tomb of Noah) on a central hilltop offer additional historical interest. Wadi Bin Hammad, 31 km northwest, rewards visitors with waterfalls, hot springs, and a 2-hour easy walk through green surroundings, though take a taxi as it's not on the highway.

Kerak is generally a safe city for travelers. Standard urban precautions apply—be aware of your belongings in crowded market areas and avoid walking alone late at night in poorly lit areas. The local people are known for being friendly and welcoming to visitors. As with all Jordan, it's respectful to dress modestly, especially when visiting religious sites.

Kerak is a budget-friendly stop on the King's Highway. Daily costs break down roughly as: local transport 2-4 JD, meals 5-15 JD, attraction entry (castle) 1 JD, and accommodation 25-40 JD. A backpacker can manage on 30-50 JD per day excluding accommodation. The city accepts Jordanian Dinars, and ATMs are available in the town center near the old city.

Kerak makes an easy day trip from Amman (2 hours by bus). Wadi Mujib, a great nature reserve famous for impressive canyons, is accessible from Kerak—limited access in winter. The Dead Sea, Jordan's most famous tourist attraction after Petra, is within reach. Madaba, known as the 'City of Mosaics' with its Byzantine mosaic map at St. George Church, is on the route north. Dana Nature Reserve offers unforgettable hiking in an offshoot of the Great Rift Valley with stays in local villages.

Kerak has a significant Christian population alongside Muslims. Dress modestly when visiting the castle and religious sites. Greet locals with 'As-salamu alaykum' (peace be upon you) and be prepared for hospitality. Photography is generally welcomed but ask before photographing local people, especially women. Tipping is appreciated for good service at restaurants.

Petra, Jordan's most famous sight, is accessible via Ma'an (buses pass through). The Dead Sea is the other major tourist attraction reachable from Kerak. Madaba offers Byzantine mosaics on the route north to Amman. Wadi Mujib nature reserve provides dramatic canyon scenery. Dana Nature Reserve offers hiking opportunities in the Great Rift Valley. Small villages along the King's Highway offer authentic experiences for those with time to explore.