Jiufen

Jiufen is a charmingly preserved gold mining village tucked into the hills above Taiwan's northeast coast. Its narrow, lantern-lined streets of tea houses, souvenir stalls, and taro-ball dessert shops evoke a bygone era that made it famous in the film 'A City of Sadness' and led to persistent (if unconfirmed) rumors it inspired Studio Ghibli's 'Spirited Away.' The town delivers atmospheric alleyways, Pacific Ocean panoramas from teahouse terraces, and a tangible sense of history without requiring more than a half-day visit.

From Taipei, the easiest options take roughly the same travel time. Take a TRA train from Taipei to Ruifang (runs every 15-20 minutes), then transfer to a bus for the remaining journey to Jiufen. Alternatively, take a train to Keelung and catch a bus from there. Direct buses to Jiufen also operate from Taipei for those preferring a single connection.

Jiufen's main historic commercial district is compact enough to explore on foot, though the terrain includes significant elevation changes as the town climbs the hillside. The two main pedestrian streets are Jishan Street (基山街), which winds along the slope, and Shuqi Street (豎崎路), famous for its steep stone steps. The primary bus stop sits at the east end of Jishan Street. The best approach is simply to arrive, disembark, and wander without a strict plan.

Jiufen attracts heavy tour-bus crowds, particularly on weekends and after noon when day-trippers arrive en masse from Taipei. Visitors seeking a quieter experience should plan a weekday visit or arrive before noon to enjoy the streets before the buses descend. The town is accessible year-round, though rainy days can make the steep alleyways slippery.

Jiufen has no hotels; overnight accommodation is limited to several small guesthouses identifiable by the characters '住宿' (lodging) displayed on their signs. Most travelers prefer to stay in Taipei or Keelung and treat Jiufen as a day trip, which is the dominant way this destination is experienced.

Jiufen's eating options range from street snacks to sit-down restaurants. The town is famous for yuyuan (芋圓)—taro balls served warm or cold with sweet red beans, nuts, and mochi. Other staples include fishball soup and dumplings in various preparations. The most celebrated taro-ball shop is Grandma Lai's Yuyuan (賴阿婆芋圓) on Jishan Street, open 08:00-20:00. The food scene is concentrated along Jishan and Shuqi Streets within the Old Street area.

Beyond strolling Old Street's shops and eateries, visitors can explore Jiufen's mining heritage at the Taiyang Co. Ruifang Mining Operation Office (台陽礦業事務所) on Shuqi Road, open weekdays 08:30-17:00, closed weekends. The adjacent Wufan Tunnel (五番坑道) was excavated in 1927 and sealed in 1971 for safety; a small community park now sits beside it on Qingbian Road. For views, hike Mount Jilong (基隆山) at 588m elevation—a 40-minute climb from the parking lot entrance that overlooks Taipei City, Keelung, and the northeast coast.

The most popular entrance to Jiufen Old Street is near the bus station next to a 7-Eleven shop and public toilets. Convenience stores like 7-Eleven offer reliable WiFi for customers. Mobile coverage from Taiwanese carriers is excellent throughout the town.

Jinguashi, another former gold mining town, lies nearby with attractions including the Gold Museum and Crown Prince's Chalet plus numerous hiking trails. Bus 856 connects Jiufen to Jinguashi's various sites. The Pingxi District offers a historic railway to waterfalls and lantern villages, with trains departing from Ruifang Station.