Itacaré

Itacaré is a Bahian coastal town of 29,000 people where the Atlantic rainforest cascades directly onto golden beaches and perfect surf breaks. It draws hikers, ecotourists, and surfers seeking a slower pace than Brazil's major beach destinations, with capoeira circles, New Year's celebrations, and Carnival drawing revelers from across the region. The town clusters around a historic riverfront of neocolonial warehouses from its 19th-century cacao-export era.

Itacaré's economy shifted from Brazilwood harvesting (which gave Brazil its name) to cassava flour for Salvador's sugar plantations, then to cacao exports during the 19th and 20th centuries. The neocolonial houses and warehouses along the riverfront date from this cacao boom. When a blight devastated cocoa crops in the 1980s and road/rail networks shifted export importance to nearby Ilhéus, tourism became the town's economic lifeline.

Itacaré sits 70 km north of Ilhéus on the BR001 highway. Most travelers arrive via Ilhéus, which has an airport with flights from Salvador and São Paulo. The drive from Ilhéus takes roughly 90 minutes along the coastal highway.

The compact town center and five surrounding beaches are easily walkable. E-bike rentals are available locally for reaching more distant beaches. Since 2017, Rua Pedro Longo—the main commercial street—closes to vehicles after 16:00 and transforms into a pedestrian zone lined with restaurants, shops, and tour agencies.

The peak seasons are New Year's and Carnival, when the town floods with revelers. The shoulder seasons offer fewer crowds while maintaining warm weather. Surf conditions are best from April to October, while the rainforest is lushest during the wetter months.

Itacaré is filled with guesthouses called pousadas for every budget. The Praia da Concha area clusters several mid-range options, while the Centro offers more affordable choices. Albergue O Pharol (Praça Santos Dumont, 07) provides the most budget-friendly option with 12 collective rooms and 2 private rooms. For a social hostel experience, Che Lagarto Itacaré (Rua Pedro Longo, 58) is centrally located.

Traditional Bahian cuisine features coconut curry shrimp, fresh seafood, and regional dishes. Casarão Amarelo (Av. Antonio Athanásio dos Santos, 94; R$25-35 per plate) serves excellent coconut curry shrimp. For vegetarian options, Alamaim (R. Pedro Longo, 204; M-Sa 15:00-22:00) offers Arab-Bahian vegetarian fare. Mediteraneo (R. Pedro Longo, 239-299; mains R$70-160) produces its own organic vegetables. Coffee and cachaça bars line the waterfront, with Café-Bar Easy Drop offering live music.

The main beach activities are surfing and swimming in natural pools. EasyDrop (www.easydrop.com) runs a professional surf school with evening video reviews. The Prainha beach is reached via a trail from Ribeira Beach passing two waterfalls—guides like Léo (leocapoeira19@hotmail.com; +55 73 999301064) are available but not required if using offline OpenStreetMap. Boat trips to Cachoeira do Cleandro cost R$15 entry, with 15-minute boat rides from Itacaré, where you can swim in waterfall pools and buy coconuts, cachaça, and chocolate.

Three capoeira groups—Luanda, Filhos de Zumbi, and Tribo do Porto—perform in Itacaré, with their training sessions open to visitors. The historic riverfront with its neocolonial warehouses and the lighthouse offer glimpses into the town's cacao-era past.

Itacaré has handcrafts and surf wear shops. The standout is Urso de Óculos International Bookshop (Avenida Castro Alves, 71, Orla) overlooking the water in the historic center—a charming independent store with books in over 15 languages including English, French, German, and Hebrew, plus coffee, tea, and wine service.

Ilhéus, 70 km south, is the regional transport hub with an airport. The surrounding Atlantic rainforest national park offers hiking and wildlife viewing. Salvador, the regional capital, is connected via Ilhéus by air and bus.