Humahuaca

Humahuaca is a dusty ranching center at 3,000 meters above sea level, surrounded by acres of cactus and spectacularly colorful mountains that look like a wild west movie set. The town of just over 10,000 people has a bunch of hostels and campgrounds, making it a popular backpacker destination in Argentina's Quebrada de Humahuaca. It offers a slower, cheaper counterweight to larger cities with colonial architecture, local festivals, and access to multi-colored mountain formations.

The Quebrada de Humahuaca was the first part of Argentina explored and settled by the Spaniards, providing a route to temperate regions around Salta and Córdoba for supplies heading to the silver mines at Potosí. The Omaguaca people, after whom the town is named, inhabited this region for thousands of years - it was part of the Inca empire. The area is arid because the mountains block rain clouds. The February carnival is a major attraction with eight days of colorful costumes, masks, and music, where local "comparsas" organize celebrations with traditional food, drinks, and dancing in the unlit streets.

Most buses between San Salvador de Jujuy and La Quiaca on the Bolivian border stop at Humahuaca. The Balut company runs a La Quiaca to Salta bus via Humahuaca (5½ hours to Salta) but it frequently runs late. If no through bus to Salta leaves early enough, get a bus to Jujuy and change there. Buses are also available to smaller towns like Uquía and Purmamarca. There are buses to Iruya at 8:20, 10:30, and 16:00 - buy return tickets with seat reservations. The small, fairly informal bus station is a few blocks SW of the center with luggage storage (AR$20 for small pieces, AR$40 for large).

The town is too small for any transport other than walking to be necessary. The central plaza and main attractions are all within easy walking distance.

Humahuaca has a good range of hostels and campgrounds popular with backpackers. Hostal la Sonada on Río Negro offers comfortable, quiet, clean rooms at AR$160 with WiFi (ask to have it switched on). El Sol Hostel in Barrio Medalla Milagrosa is a 15-minute walk from the bus station across the bridge, charging AR$170 for a double room with shared bathroom, breakfast included, 24-hour hot water, and WiFi. Azul Humahuaca and La Puerta Verde (Basilio Álvarez 294) offer colorful hostel options with friendly staff and free breakfast.

Humahuaca is well supplied with small restaurants offering a range of food types. Pachamanka Restaurante on Buenos Aires 457 serves distinctive regional foods like fried empanadas and llama meat at AR$30-35,000 per head including wine (daily 10:00-23:00). Aisito Restaurante on Buenos Aires 435 offers solid local cuisine and wine at AR$30,000 per head (as at 2026, daily 11:00-00:00) with occasional live music. El Portillo on Tucumán 69 has a courtyard shaded by an enormous peppercorn tree, perfect for lunch or drinks. In the afternoon near the corner of Tucumán and Basilio Álvarez, street stands sell tortillas (large flat empanadas) for AR$25-35 each. Avoid El Fortin on Buenos Aires 200 - it's considered a tourist trap with disappointing food quantity and quality.

The Serranía de Hornocal is a colorful rock formation known as the "mountain of 14 colors" - take a taxi or van for about AR$250 from the bus station (40 minutes), or the cheaper minibus - arriving after 14:00 for the best light. The viewpoint is at 4,350m; the 20-minute walk from the top is steep and can be difficult if not acclimatized. Vehicle entrance is AR$50. Alternatively, hike the 19km trail (4-5 hours if hitch-hiking) but arrive after 14:00 for full color development. The Monumento de la Independencia is 10km northeast - climb a long flight of steps for views of the Rio Grande valley. The colonial church (Iglesia de la Candalaria y San Antonio) west of the central plaza has a late 17th-century altarpiece. Peña Blanca is a giant white-and-red desert rock accessible by 25-minute hike with a shrine and stairs for panoramic views. The Ruinas de Coctaca are the largest pre-Columbian archaeological site in northern Argentina at 40 hectares, featuring advanced agricultural terraces and a complex watering system.

Due to its relatively isolated mountain location, internet is slow in Humahuaca. Hostels and some restaurants have WiFi, but expectations should be kept low. The post office is on Buenos Aires at the northwest corner of the main plaza.

Uquía is a beautiful mountain village just north with a notable historic church and hiking opportunities in a canyon; buses were AR$10 as of Nov 2017. Tilcara is an inexpensive town with the Pucará de Tilcara, an Omaguaca fortress. Purmamarca is a popular but overpriced tourist destination famous for the Mountain of Seven Colours, good for photos and hiking the Los Colorados trail. The road to Iruya is described as one of the most impressive and breathtaking trips in Argentina.