Guilin

Guilin is the hub for exploring the surrounding area's karst terrain, limestone mountains eroded into fantastic shapes. It is among the most scenic areas in China and a top tourist destination for both Chinese travellers and international backpackers. The city center is surrounded by two rivers and four lakes, studded with sheer-sided karst mountains, and relatively free of air pollution. Guilin makes an excellent base for trips to the Lijiang River, Longsheng rice terraces, and Yangshuo.

Guilin Liangjiang International Airport has daily flights from major mainland Chinese cities and some international destinations in East and Southeast Asia. Visitors from ASEAN countries may visit Guilin for up to 144 hours (6 days) without a visa if they join an approved group tour, enter and depart through Guilin airport, and do not travel beyond Guilin, Yangshuo, and Longsheng. The city also has three railway stations: Guilin Station, Guilin North Station, and Guilin West Station, with high-speed connections to Nanning (2.5 hr) and other cities.

Buses are an ideal way to get around Guilin on a budget, with fares capped at ¥2 per trip. Useful routes include bus 58 from the train station to many attractions. All buses starting with 5 are free. Taxis are inexpensive and easily hailed, but hard to catch during peak hours (17:30-19:00). For day trips, hiring a driver for a full day costs about ¥100 (off-season, March 2012). A local map from a tourist shop costs ¥5.

Guilin has a subtropical climate with temperatures ranging from 6.1°C in January to 33.2°C in August. Rainfall is heaviest from April to July, with May and June being the wettest months. Spring and autumn offer milder weather and are generally considered the best times to visit.

Guilin has a huge range of accommodation, from backpacker hostels to luxury hotels. Popular hostels include Guilin Central Hostel (dorms from ¥35), Wada Hostel (dorms from ¥40), and Dozycat Hostel (dorms from ¥15–40). There are also many B&Bs with great views, including homestays in farmland on the outskirts or on top floors of high-rise buildings. Mid-range hotels like Fu Yuan Hotel offer rooms from ¥88.

The local specialty is Guilin rice noodles (mifan), a cheap and delicious street food. The Islam Restaurant on Xicheng Road serves traditional halal food. For drinks, try Liquan beer or osmanthus tea. There is a night market along Zhongshan Lu selling tourist trinkets and food. Western food is available at places like Rosemary Cafe and Wada Bar, which also has cocktails from ¥20–30.

Top attractions include the Li River cruise to Yangshuo (from ¥300, 3–4 hr), the Two Rivers and Four Lakes night cruise (¥200, 90 min), Reed Flute Cave (¥90), Elephant Trunk Hill (¥75), and Seven Star Park (¥50). For free activities, visit Central Square (free, with nightly artificial waterfall at 20:30) or hike Diecai Mountain (¥35). Bike rental is available for ¥45–100 per day at a shop on Sanduo Road.

Guilin is quite safe by Chinese and international standards, but pickpocketing is common in tourist areas, especially at the bus station. Keep valuables in a money belt and avoid carrying your wallet in your pocket. Be cautious of locals selling fake 'honey' at rest stops, which can be impure and unsafe. Western tourists may be approached by people posing as teachers who then try to sell tea or artwork.

Yangshuo is about 1.5 hours by bus and offers beautiful karst scenery. Xingping, a quieter town on the Li River, is halfway between Guilin and Yangshuo. Longsheng features terraced rice fields and Zhuang minority villages, best visited in June or September. Chengyang, accessible via high-speed rail to Sanjiang then minibus, has minority villages with quaint bridges and drum towers. A sleeper bus to Hanoi, Vietnam costs ¥390.

From Guilin, popular onward destinations include Yangshuo (1.5 hr bus), Xingping, Longsheng, Chengyang, and further afield to Vietnam via overnight bus to Hanoi (¥390, arriving next day). High-speed trains connect to Nanning (2.5 hr) and other cities.