Erongarícuaro

Erongarícuaro offers a genuine glimpse into traditional Purhépecha life away from tourist crowds. The village retains its ancient atmosphere with one-story adobe buildings, red tile roofs, and dusty cobblestone streets traveled by horse and car. Its name means 'place of waiting' or 'place of the watchtower' in the Purhépecha language, reflecting its historical role as a trade point for the Purhepecha empire.

With a population of about 2,700 people, Erongarícuaro sits just across Lake Pátzcuaro from the town of Patzcuaro. The village has hosted notable figures including Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, André Breton, and Russian revolutionary Leon Trotsky. Former president Lázaro Cárdenas used it as his hideaway before the road arrived. Today it attracts expatriates from Argentina, the United States, France, Chile, Germany, Switzerland, and Italy. The lively plaza features exotic trees in a tolerant climate.

The native Purhépecha from nearby pueblos come to market on Tuesdays, making this the busiest and most vibrant day to visit. Each Sunday evening, local matriarchs set up along back streets selling homemade goodies. The Day of the Dead celebrations feature traditional Danza de los Viejitos (dance of the old folks) performances.

Erongarícuaro is located about 1.5 hours drive from Morelia and Uruapan, and 20 minutes from Patzcuaro. Buses to Morelia leave every hour for M$25. Taxis to Patzcuaro cost M$80 and to Quiroga M$90. Combis depart frequently to Patzcuaro for just M$10.

Everything in Erongarícuaro is within walking distance. Visitors should explore the village on foot to fully appreciate the cobblestone streets, plaza, and surrounding colonial architecture.

The plaza is the heart of the village, featuring a fountain, stage, and magnificent collection of trees. The Church houses a naturalistic crucifix above the altar known locally as 'El Señor de la Misericordia', a 16th-century Pidgin Plateresque example unique to highland Michoacán. The Church and Monastery, founded by Franciscans, occasionally opens to reveal gardens and lake views; Banda concerts are held in the large plaza. A furniture factory operates in town.

Several permaculture farms welcome visitors: Rancho Fresno offers composting classes, and Granja Tierramor provides permaculture workshops. Las Canoas Altas (lascanoasaltas.org) is an anthroposophic initiative farm with workshops. The People's Retreat Center (Calle Profesor Urueta Carrillo N° 105) offers accommodations and services in multiple languages.

An ATM is available at the police station and in a government building on the Plaza. A new OXXO store also has an ATM. A bike shop handles repairs. Tuesday market days bring Purhépecha vendors from surrounding pueblos.

The plaza offers food throughout most of the day. Morning and night bring warm atole; tacos, gorditas, hamburgers, and burritos are available. The bread shop at the lower plaza end sells wholewheat bread, while tortilla shops and whole roasted chicken vendors abound. Plaza ice cream shops (nieve) offer water-based and cream-based flavors with exotic fruit combinations. Comida Corrida on the lower plaza serves traditional lunch dishes including nopales, molé, and carne asada for M$35 with beans, rice, tortillas, salsa, and soda. Loncería 'El 10' on the lower plaza side offers tortas for M$10-15. Seafood stands dot the hillside toward Patzcuaro.

The most popular drinking spot is on the upper plaza outside 'El Brazo Fuerte.' Small grocery stores serve as simple bars for beer. Plaza stores carry a limited selection of wines at premium prices; visitors recommend Costco for better wine deals.

Hotel Jardín on Ignacio Zaragoza street at the upper corner of the plaza offers 15 rooms (M$250-350) with very clean triples, doubles, and singles available 24 hours. Being plaza-side, food is accessible from morning till night. La Orilla (Salida a Quiroga, 01 434 34 40106) provides 8 single and 3 double rooms with WiFi, secured parking, and spectacular lake views from conference areas. The Monastery may occasionally host conferences and performances.

Taxis to Patzcuaro cost M$80, while frequent combis serve the route for M$10. Quiroga is M$90 by taxi. Hourly buses to Morelia cost M$25 (get off at esquina Corona and taxi to centro). Nearby Lake Pátzcuaro islands and Janitzio are popular day trip destinations.