Overview
Cuenca is a colonial city in Ecuador's southern highlands. Its UNESCO-listed historic center combines old architecture with flowers, trees and rushing waterways.
Architecture · History · Museums · River
Did you know?
- CemuArt brings together embroidery, metalwork and Panama hats.
- Pumapungo combines Inca ruins, botanical gardens and an aviary.
- The New Cathedral is crowned by three large domes.
Why go?
Cuenca is a vibrant colonial city in southern Ecuador, the third largest in the country and capital of Azuay Province. Located at 2,500 m above sea level, it enjoys a moderate climate year-round. Its historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, filled with flowers, blooming trees, and rushing waters. The city is cleaner and safer than most large cities in developing countries, and tap water is safe to drink.
Getting in
Mariscal Lamar International Airport (CUE) has daily flights from Quito with LATAM and Avianca. Long-distance buses arrive at Terminal Terrestre, with connections to other Ecuadorian cities and Peru.
Getting around
Central Cuenca is easily walkable. Taxis are readily available and cost $1.50–3 per trip (negotiate before entering). City buses cost $0.25 per ride, exact change required. A reloadable SIT card costs $1.75. The Tranvía tram line has been operating since March 2020 with 27 stops.
Things to do
Visit the New Cathedral with its three large domes (rooftop terrace $3), the old cathedral El Sagrario ($2), and the Seminario San Luis courtyards. The Museo y Parque Arqueológico Pumapungo (free) features Inca ruins, an aviary, and botanical gardens. Museo de las Culturas Aborigenes ($4) has a large pre-Columbian collection. CIDAP (free) displays crafts from 26 countries. Take a free walking tour, a $5 sightseeing bus to Mirador de Turi, or stroll along the Tomebamba River walk. Day trip to Ingapirca ruins ($6 foreigners). In December, the Christmas Parade (Pase del Niño Viajero) is a massive celebration. The Independence Festival in early November features crafts, food, and performances.
Food and drink
Cuenca offers a range from cheap local lunches at Mujeres con éxito ($2.75 for soup, main, dessert, drink) to pricier tapas at Cafe Eucalyptus. Moritas serves affordable breakfasts from $2. La Fornace is a local pizza chain with excellent fruit pizza and ice cream from $0.70 per scoop. For coffee, Goza has a beautiful terrace and coffees from $1.50. Jazz Society Café offers jazz dinners. Nightlife includes La Mesa salsateque and El Cafecito hostel-bar.
Where to stay
Budget options include Hostal Perla Cuencana ($7/person with shared bath), Hostal Villa Flora (from $8 single shared bath), and Hostal Yakumama (dorms from $8 with breakfast). Mid-range hotels like Hotel Milan (from $17 single) and Hostal Macondo ($21) offer good value. For luxury, Mansion Alcazar from $120.
Buy
The flower market on Calle Sucre across from the New Cathedral is a colorful spot. Nearby, the clothing and artisan market sells knit crafts from Otavalo. Inside CemuArt, local artisans offer embroidery, metalwork, Panama hats, and more. Rafael Paredes & Hijos is a renowned Panama hat shop. La Esquina des Artes features artists and gourmet products. Mall del Rio is the biggest shopping mall.
Go next
Cajas National Park, a 1-hour drive away, offers free entry with hiking, camping, and fishing. Route 1 is a 2-4 hour day hike past lagoons and paper trees. Sigsig and Chordeleg are scenic towns about an hour away; Chordeleg is known for silver and gold, while Sigsig has a weaving co-op for Panama hats. For onward travel to Peru, take a bus from Terminal Terrestre via Huaquillas to Tumbes.
Budget
A daily backpacker budget in Cuenca is around $25-35: dorm accommodation $7-10, meals $2-5 each, local bus $0.25, and a cab ride $1.50-3. Many attractions are free or under $5. Tap water is free and safe to drink.
Safety
Cuenca is cleaner and safer than most large cities in developing countries, but watch for drivers as they may not yield. The city is working on slowing traffic. Stick to well-lit areas at night, though the historic center is generally safe.
When to go
The climate is moderate year-round due to its altitude of 2,500 m. The Christmas Parade on December 24 and the Independence Festival in early November are major events that draw crowds and offer unique cultural experiences.
Guide text adapted from Wikivoyage contributors under CC BY-SA 4.0.
Where to start
Sleep
Casa Naranja
Nice, clean rooms at less than $13. Features 2 indoor patios, fully equipped kitchen and is 3 blocks from the main square in a safe area. Colonial house with indoor balconies and has single, double, triple and quadruple rooms.
Sleep
Hostal Alternative
Well-run hostel located next to the Pumapungo museum and archaeological site. Relaxed atmosphere, clean rooms and a free to use kitchen. Great escape from the chaos and noise of the downtown bars while still being within walking distance.
Price when recorded: $22
Sleep
Hostal Macondo
An old colonial building with a pretty courtyard. The price includes breakfast. Very pretty but simple rooms, quiet, with a self-serve kitchen, free wireless, book exchange, and large DVD library. Very nice hot showers with good pressure.
Price when recorded: $21
Sleep
Hostal Perla Cuencana
Owned by a local family, the hostel is perfectly located, very central. Clean and comfortable though some might find it bare and old with its creaky wooden floors and uncharming facade. Large rooms with windows and some with balconies (the best are at the back, away from the noise of the street). Free and good Wi-Fi (in the rooms), laundry facilities, communal kitchen (very basic), towels provided, and roof terrace. Great and cheap place. The owner is very helpful and friendly.
Price when recorded: $7/person/night with shared bathroom, regardless of the type of room
Sleep
Hostal Villa Del Rosario
Lovely, quiet place, with a mix of rooms to suit all travellers: singles, doubles, double en-suites. Gorgeous little courtyard with garden in the middle of it all; a hummingbird likes to hang out there sometimes. Very cheap, but really clean, and just nice. $2 breakfast: eggs, toast, juice, coffee, bread and jam. Towels provided. Lady owner very friendly, but it really helps to speak Spanish. Cuenca is really safe, but even more so in this area - Calle Larga is a block away. Reception is next door, but there is a bell to ring to the left of the main door to get someone to come over - it's hard to spot it, but the bell is there.
Price when recorded: $13
Sleep
Hostal Villa Flora
A cheap option in the historic centre. Includes a cafeteria service, a laundry, and cable tv.
Price when recorded: from $10 p.p. with private bathroom, $8 single shared bath
Sleep
Hostal Yakumama
Hostel run by Swiss siblings a couple of blocks away from Cuenca's main square. The place features an amazing design and also has a very nice restaurant and bar.
Price when recorded: 6-bed dorm $8, 4-bed dorm $9, 2-bed dorm (bunk) $9/$10, double (shared bathroom) $20, double (private bathroom) $27. All prices include breakfast
Sleep
Hostel Calle Angosta
This place is set back off the road, so it's pretty quiet. You are immediately treated like family, and they will do anything reasonable to help you out. There is parking, and you are about 8 blocks from central park. The water hot and they provide cable TV. While it does lack a little homeyness, it's because the facility is brand new.
Price when recorded: From $25 for a single room with private bath, $40 for a couple with private bath - all include breakfast: bread, juice, coffee, and eggs
Before you go
Language
Spanish is the main language. English is not widely spoken outside tourist areas, but some hostels and tour operators speak it.
Money
Ecuador uses the US dollar. Change is often given in coins and small bills. ATMs are widely available.
Safety
Tap water is safe to drink. The city is generally safe, but watch for traffic; drivers may not yield.
Transport
City buses cost $0.25 per ride (exact change). Taxis $1.50-3. The Tranvía tram operates along one line with 27 stops.
Weather
Mild year-round due to altitude (2,500 m). Daytime temperatures around 20-25°C, cooler at night. Rain is possible any time.
