Guayaquil

Guayaquil is Ecuador's largest city and main seaport, with a distinctly Caribbean soul shaped by its tropical climate and maritime heritage. The city has transformed dramatically from its gritty reputation—now featuring the gleaming Malecón 2000 waterfront, colorful Las Peñas neighborhood, and green parks throughout. Visitors are warmly received, tropical music fills the air, and fresh seafood is essential. It's a cheaper, livelier counterpoint to mountainous Quito.

José Joaquín de Olmedo International Airport (GYE) is near the new business district and next to the international bus station. It has been voted best South American airport. Domestic flights to Quito run about $125 round trip (September 2009), and to Cuenca about $120 round trip. Long-distance buses depart from the adjacent terrestrial bus terminal.

The renewed downtown area (Área Regenerada) and Malecón are very secure for walking. From Las Peñas, you can walk up 400-odd steps lined with ice cream and snack vendors to reach the lighthouse, Museo El Fortín, and Iglesia del Cerro Santa Ana. Radio taxis are recommended over hailing street taxis due to robbery incidents.

Guayaquil has a hot, humid climate year-round. The driest months are July through October with minimal rainfall (1.2-5.6 mm). The wettest period is February-March with 315-332 mm. December through April sees more rain but temperatures remain warm (31-32°C). June to September is ideal for whalewatching at nearby Salinas and Playas.

Hotels exist for every budget, with decent rooms from $10/night. Budget options near the Malecón include Hotel Berlín (from $8) and Hotel Sander (from $9). The regenerated downtown area and Malecón 2000 neighborhood offer the most secure locations. For airport proximity, consider Murali Hostal Airport (from $45) or DreamKapture hostel ($10 dorms, $18-20 private rooms with breakfast included).

Traditional dishes include encebollado (fish stew), seco de pollo, ceviche, and caldo de salchicha. Chinese restaurants (chifas) are excellent and found throughout the city. 'El Patacón' in Urdesa serves local cuisine based on verde (green bananas). Budget travelers can try Manso Boutique Guesthouse for quinoa and lentil dishes. Nightlife centers on 'Zona Rosa' in the regenerated area, with club entry typically $10-15 consumable, parties lasting until 04:00.

The Malecón Simón Bolívar stretches along the Guayas River with shops, IMAX theater, gardens, La Planchada bastion, and the Torre Morisca octagonal clock tower. Las Peñas has been rebuilt with bright colors and colonial buildings. Visit Museo Nahim Isaias for colonial paintings, Museo Antropológico y de Arte Contemporáneo for archaeology, and Parque Seminario for its famous iguanas. Nature reserves nearby include Bosque Protector Cerro Blanco (15 km west, hiking) and Reserva Ecológica Manglares Churute (30-40 km east, 1.4 km trail).

Guayaquil is considered dangerous as of 2018. Violent crime exists, and women travelers should be particularly careful. The port area and south Guayaquil are especially risky. Even well-patrolled tourist sites (Christ statue on Cerro del Carmen, Malecón 2000, Las Peñas) are targeted. Criminals use distraction tactics with choke holds from behind. Use only official radio taxis, not street-hailed cabs. Never walk alone downtown at night, especially off Avenue 9 de Octubre. Don't flash money or wear expensive jewelry.

Cyber cafes exist throughout the city for internet and VoIP calls. Some malls (Mall del Sol, Riocentro Los Ceibos) offer free Wi-Fi in food courts. Buy $30 worth of groceries at Mi Comisariato for a two-for-one movie coupon.

Sleep: dorm beds from $10/night, budget hotels from $8-12. Eat: traditional dishes like encebollado and ceviche at local spots; chifas (Chinese restaurants) are good value. Drink: club entry $10-15 consumable. Transport: taxi from airport around $10; bus 25 cents. Activities: nature reserves often have small entrance fees. Cocoa plantation tour with Canodos tour operator costs $110 per person including lunch.

The beaches at Playas are about 90 minutes away, and Salinas about two hours up Via la Costa. Whalewatching is best June-September at General Villamil Playas. A cocoa plantation tour (past the orchid farm) offers cocoa juice, plantain snacks, plantation walk, chocolate tasting, and local lunch for $110/person through Canodos tour operator. Bosque Protector Cerro Blanco is 15 km west for hiking. Reserva Ecológica Manglares Churute is 30-40 km east with a 1.4 km trail.

Quito is about a 7-hour drive or less than 1-hour flight ($125 round trip). Cuenca is a 4-hour drive or 30-minute flight ($120 round trip), passing through mangroves, cocoa and banana plantations, cloud forests, and mountains. The beaches at Salinas and Playas are 1-2 hours away along the coast.