Brașov

Brașov is a medieval walled town in Transylvania, Romania, set in the Carpathian Mountains. The well-preserved old town (pedestrianised) is the main draw, with Saxon German heritage visible in Council Square (Piața Sfatului). The city has good tourist facilities with staff often speaking English and German. It's less known to westerners than Sibiu or Cluj Napoca, partly because it lacks a well-connected airport, making it a quieter but equally charming alternative.

The newest airport is Brașov Airport (opened June 2023), with Wizz Air flights from Dortmund and London-Luton, but no domestic flights. Bucharest Otopeni Airport is about 180 km away and more practical for international arrivals. Brașov has railway connections to major Romanian cities, with the station to the north of the old town. Bus services connect from various Romanian cities.

The old town is largely pedestrianised, making it walkable. Local buses serve attractions outside the centre: Bus 17 from Livada Poștei (city centre) and Bus 35 from the railway station serve the climbing park Aventura; Bus 21 also connects from the station. Bus 6 goes to Astra market from Livada Poștei.

Bring warm clothing regardless of season—the mountain setting means Brașov is often wet and cold, especially at night. Summer (June-August) is warmest for hiking. Winter brings skiing at Poiana Brașov. Major events include Zilele Brașovului (Feast Days) in the week leading up to Orthodox Easter with crafts fairs and the Parades of Juni, and an Oktoberfest (Beer Festival) with beer tents and sausages.

Budget hostels include Kismet Dao Hostel (dorms €10-12, private €30) in Șchei district with breakfast and beer included; Mara Hostel (€10/night) 200m from central square; Rolling Stone Hostel (€10 dorms) and JugendStube Hostel (€12/night with breakfast). Mid-range options include Hotel Aro Sport near Aro Palace, Hotel Postavarul wing of Coroana, and La Despani Guesthouse (from €30/room) near Autogara 2. The old centre has Hotel Coroana (oldest hotel, baroque style) and Hotel Capitol with 184 modern double rooms.

Since Brașov attracts many tourists, there's more upmarket restaurant choice, but mid-range prices run higher than typical Romanian cities. Romanian fare at Roata Norocului (Strada Crișan 6, daily 10:00-23:30) offers good quality and service. Fast food at Ando's (Bvd 15 Noiembrie 6, 24hr) provides low prices. French options include La Republique (crepes, Strada Republicii 33) and Bistro de l'Arte (burgers and breakfasts, Piața George Enescu 11). For nightlife, Deane's Irish Pub (Strada Republicii 19, daily 10:00-03:00) serves Guinness and Ulster Fry; Hirscher12 (Strada Hirscher 12) is Scottish-themed with darts and football.

The Black Church (Biserica Neagră) south of the main square is a 15th-century late Gothic Lutheran church scorched by the 1689 fire, featuring a 4000-pipe organ from 1839 and Anatolian carpets; concerts June-September Tu 18:00-18:30 (8 lei), July-August also Th Sa. Tâmpa mountain looms over the city with the Hollywood-style "B-R-A-S-O-V" letters lit at night—accessible by steep 1-hour hike or cable car (10 lei up/down, 18 lei roundtrip, every 30 min to 16:00). Climb at Aventura climbing park (30 lei entrance, Bus 17/21/35) or Natural High indoor gym. Hiking in the surrounding Carpathian woodlands where almost 40 orchid species grow. Water parks include Paradisul Acvatic (open year-round) and Aqua Park.

Brașov is very safe for visitors with well-policed main tourist areas. Common precautions: watch for pickpockets in crowded city centre, on buses, and in restaurants; use only company taxis with prices and phone on the door (avoid right-side taxis near train station exit); exchange bureaux have poor rates especially near stations and for uncommon currencies. The surrounding forests contain Eurasian Brown Bears (Ursus arctos arctos) that sometimes approach town dumpsters—keep distance and make noise in woods to avoid startling them.

Brașov and its approach roads have 4G coverage from all Romanian carriers. As of August 2022, 5G is patchy from Digi, Orange, and Vodafone. For cash, use ATMs next to banks during business hours for recourse if issues arise; note support phone number before entering PIN. Currency exchange is best at major banks (BCR, BNR, BT, Raiffeisen) with passport required; BCR headquarters on 15 Noiembrie Street has a 24/7 exchange ATM converting EUR, USD, GBP, CHF at official rates.

Easy day trips from Brașov include Râșnov (16 km southwest, fortress, train or frequent bus), Bran (10 km further, striking castle but tourist-heavy on Dracula connection), Poiana Brașov ski resort (10 km above, frequent buses), Prejmer village (12 km east, fortified church), and Feldioara fortress (15 km north). Further options: Făgăraș with fortress and Sâmbăta de Sus monastery; Sighișoara (120 km north, medieval fortified town, Dracula's birthplace, train or bus) with detours to Hoghiz, Racoș, Rupea, and Viscri; Sibiu (3 hours by bus or train, splendid medieval city).

Heading south through the Rucar pass leads to Pitești (120 km, last Transylvanian-feeling town) with detours to Curtea de Argeș fortress. Beyond lies Wallachia's flat fields and the highway to Bucharest. For mountain driving, the Transfagarașan Highway twists through spectacular passes 100 km west—open July 1-October 31, private tours from Brașov cost 450 lei per person for 2+ people.