Yakushima

Yakushima is a small, nearly round granite island of 505 km² with mountains rising over 1,800 m, including Miyanoura-dake at 1,935 m. The island receives enormous precipitation, making it one of Japan's most rain-soaked places with measurable rain on half the days of the year. This exceptional climate supports ancient cedar forests with trees over 1,000 years old called yakusugi, including the famous Jomon Sugi estimated at 2,100-7,200 years old. The pristine yakusugi forests inspired Hayao Miyazaki's 1997 film Princess Mononoke, and the island offers spectacular rocky coastlines, verdant mountains, wildflowers, and abundant wildlife including deer (shika) and monkeys (saru) that are not fed by humans.

Yakushima is accessible by ferry from Kagoshima or by air via Yakushima Airport (IATA: KUM), located between Miyanoura and Anbo ports along the island's circumference. The airport has direct flights from Kagoshima (50 minutes by bus from city center), Fukuoka, and Osaka Itami. Ferries depart from Kagoshima port. The island is administratively part of Kagoshima Prefecture.

Yakushima is a small island with a limited population where relying solely on buses can restrict mobility. The one road around the entire island takes 3 hours to circumnavigate by car. Private vehicle rental is recommended—rent a scooter if luggage allows. English is spoken less here than in cities, so bringing a Japanese dictionary is advisable. The Tourist Information Center at the regular ferry terminal may have English-speaking staff and provides useful leaflets including bus timetables.

Yakushima receives heavy rainfall throughout the year, with precipitation on roughly half of all days. May through August is nesting season for giant sea turtles that come ashore on several beaches including Nagata-inaka-hama Beach to lay eggs from 01:00-02:00. Only red flashlights may be used during turtle watching to avoid scaring them away. Summer months are peak season for Japanese tourists. The forest trails are well-maintained and free of garbage, with bilingual English/Japanese information signs at key locations.

Accommodation options range from budget guesthouses to mid-range hotels. Cottage Morinokokage in Funayuki offers log cabin cottages at ¥4,000 per night, a 7-minute drive from Yakushima Airport. Minshuku Torokko no yado near Anbo Port costs ¥3,500 single or ¥6,000 double with shared bathroom facilities. For hikers, Lodge Yaedake Sanso near Shiratani Unsuikyo features tatami rooms with hot spring access, free laundry, and kayak rentals. Budget travelers can stay at Yakushima Coliving MINATO youth hostel near Miyanoura Port.

Local specialties include flying fish and two citrus varieties: tankan and ponkan oranges. On the coastal road south of Anbo near Toroki Falls, a produce center sells seasonal fruit and local goods including tankan juice, ice cream, and sherbet. Simple dining options include Banraiken in Anbo next to the post office serving Chinese dishes like ramen and fried rice (chahan) for up to ¥1,000. Dekitate-ya prepares bentō lunch boxes—order by 20:00 the day before for ¥1,000 covering breakfast and lunch. The local shochu Mitake is available in 25% and 32% varieties.

The primary attraction is the ancient yakusugi cedar forests. The Shiratani Unsuikyo forest offers two main options: a 3-4 hour route through awe-inspiring forest with several yakusugi and abundant moss, or a 30-minute walk to the 3,000-year-old Yayoi sugi. The trail leads through areas named Mononoke-hime no Mori after Princess Mononoke. Yakusugiland offers 30-, 50-, 80-, and 150-minute round-trip trails. The Jomon Sugi hike requires an 8-hour round trip with pre-dawn departure and reasonable fitness. For relaxation, Yudomari Onsen (¥100, 24 hours) near Yudomari village offers a main pool with bamboo screen and smaller private pools, with a small bar serving drinks outside.

Cellular service is limited or nonexistent along Western Forest Road and Route 592 (the road to Yakusugiland and Kigensugi). Prepare accordingly for hiking in these areas by informing others of your plans. There is a wifi hotspot available near Ooko-no-taki waterfalls. The Yakushima Tourism Center in Miyanoura offers hiking equipment rental and general tourist assistance; English is spoken there.

Snakes are present on the island—guidance is to not provoke or approach them and to back away slowly. When hiking, proper equipment is essential including hiking shoes, water, food, warm clothing, rain gear, and a whistle. The coastline is beautiful but rough; bathing in wrong locations can be dangerous. There is limited cellular service on some hiking routes, so inform someone of your plans before venturing into remote areas.

Daily costs for backpackers: budget accommodation in hostels or guesthouses ranges from ¥3,500-4,000 per night. Simple meals at local restaurants cost ¥1,000-1,500. Major attractions include Yakusugi Museum (¥600 entry), Shiratani Unsui Gorge (¥800), and hot springs (¥100 each). Rental scooter provides best value for island transport. Cash up before arriving as ATM access is limited to the post office in Miyanoura.

The island is compact enough for multiple sites in one day by rental vehicle. Major waterfalls include Ooko-no-taki at 90 meters, rated among Japan's best, accessible by bus from Anbo (60 minutes) or Miyanoura (90 minutes). The Yakushima Fruit Garden on the southwest coast (¥500 entry) showcases tropical fruit trees including papaya, mango, guava, and starfruit. Shitogo Gajumaru-en Banyan Garden north of Miyanoura (¥200 entry) features 300-year-old banyan trees and subtropical plants.

From Yakushima, ferries connect back to Kagoshima on Kyushu mainland. Tanegashima island lies nearby to the north and is accessible by ferry. The island is part of Kagoshima Prefecture, making Kagoshima city a logical next destination for travelers continuing their Kyushu exploration. Okinawa is located to the south.