Xi'an

Xi'an is a city of profound historical significance, being the oldest surviving capital of ancient China. It offers a mix of ancient charm and modern development, with attractions like the Terracotta Warriors, the ancient City Wall, and numerous museums and temples. The city has a pleasant cosmopolitan flair and is a must-visit for anyone interested in Chinese history and culture.

Xi'an is served by Xi'an Xianyang International Airport (IATA: XIY), about 40 km northwest of the city, with flights to most major Chinese cities and international destinations including Bangkok, Seoul, and Tokyo. The city is also a major rail hub with Xi'an North Railway Station handling high-speed trains (e.g., 35 minutes to Huashan) and Xi'an Railway Station for conventional services. Buses and taxis connect the airport and stations to the city center.

The old city is rectangular and centered on the Bell Tower, with four main streets radiating outward. The subway (Lines 1, 2, 3, 4, 5) is the easiest way to get around, with frequent service. Buses run every 5-10 minutes on main lines, and taxis are widely available except during rush hours. Bicycles can be rented on the City Wall (¥45 per 120 minutes). Local terms: 'within the city walls' (城里 chénglǐ) and 'outside the city walls' (城外 chéngwài) are common.

The best times to visit are spring and autumn, with mild temperatures and moderate rainfall. Summer can be hot with intense sun, especially on the City Wall, while winter is cold and dry. The average annual temperature is 13.3°C, with January averaging -0.5°C to 1.3°C and August averaging 26.4°C to 26.9°C. Cherry blossoms at Qinglong Temple bloom in March-April.

Budget accommodation is plentiful, especially near the train station and inside the city walls. Dorm beds in hostels range from ¥25-50 per night, while single rooms can be found for under ¥100. Bargaining is possible for longer stays. Recommended hostels include Xi'an Shuyuan International Youth Hostel (dorms from ¥35) and Han Tang Inn Youth Hostel (doubles from ¥120). For mid-range, the 3e Hotels International offers singles with broadband for ¥154.

Xi'an's culinary scene is dominated by its Muslim Quarter, where you can find signature dishes like Yangrou Paomo (lamb soup with shredded bread, ¥4-5 a bowl), Biang Biang Mian (wide noodles with broth and toppings), and Rou Jia Mo (Chinese 'hamburger'). Street food is cheap and authentic. For drinks, the area around South Gate has bars with terraces, and the De Fu Lou area is popular for nightlife with live music. Clubs are open until 04:00, with places like Night Cat and Palando.

The top attraction is the Terracotta Warriors (¥120) in three pits, about 1.5 km from the Qin Shihuang Mausoleum. Walk or bike the 13.7 km City Wall (¥54, bike rental ¥45). Visit the Shaanxi History Museum (free, but book on WeChat), the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda (¥30 for temple plus ¥12.5 for pagoda), and the Bell Tower (¥30). The Muslim Quarter is perfect for a stroll, sampling food and souvenirs. Other notable sights include the Daming Palace National Heritage Park (¥60), the Great Mosque (¥25), and the Big Goose Pagoda area.

Xi'an is generally safe, but watch out for pickpockets in crowds, on buses, and during national holidays. Be aware of aggressive touts at the train station and near tourist sites; insist firmly you already have accommodation. Taxi drivers may try to overcharge off-meter, especially at the railway station and airport bus stops. Keep your luggage safe and consider using left-luggage offices.

Wi-Fi is available in most hostels and cafes. For a local SIM card, visit the China Mobile store near Drum Tower Metro Station (Exit C, closes 7pm). WeChat is the primary communication app; locals rarely use email. Making friends can be challenging if you don't speak Mandarin, but bars in De Fu Alley during football season and coffee shops are good places to socialize.

From Xi'an, day trips include the Huashan National Park (35 min by high-speed train, ¥70 cable car), Hu Kou Waterfall (150 km north, own transport needed), and Chen Lu pottery town (3 hours drive). Further destinations include Xianyang (connected by metro), Lanzhou (capital of Gansu), and Huanghe Hukou Pubu National Park.