Xalapa
Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean · Mexico
Did you know?
- The Clavijero botanical garden preserves coffee plantation forest.
- The anthropology museum displays giant Olmec heads from San Lorenzo.
- Mercado Jáuregui mixes market food with ceramics and woven clothing.
See also
Naolinco
Mexico19.66°N 96.87°W · 1,552 m
Overview
Xalapa is a highland university city with colonial architecture and a strong coffee culture. Its anthropology museum and active arts scene give travelers plenty to explore between cafés.
Languages: Spanish
Why go?
Xalapa is the "Athens of Veracruz" — a college town of 425,000 people anchored by Universidad Veracruzana. Unlike the humid Veracruz coast below, Xalapa sits in the cooler highlands, offering colonial-era architecture, excellent coffee culture, and one of Mexico's finest anthropology museums. The city pulses with cultural events: street musicians, fandango dancers, and a thriving arts scene make it more lively than typical Mexican cities of its size.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Getting in
Xalapa is served by Central de Autobuses Xalapa (Plaza Xalapan) on Av. 20 de Noviembre Oriente 271. ADO is the primary long-distance bus operator serving this station, with restrooms (fee applies) and fast food available. The city lies on routes connecting Veracruz coast to central Mexico.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Getting around
Xalapa is hilly and densely built, making it ideal for scooter exploration. Renting a scooter opens up the back areas of the city for independent discovery. The compact downtown (Zona Centro) is walkable between major sites like the cathedral, Juárez Park, and the Anthropology Museum.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
When to go
Xalapa sits at elevation and enjoys a mild highland climate distinct from the hot Veracruz coast. December through February tends to be driest (34-48mm monthly rainfall), while June-September sees heaviest rains (180-284mm). The climate chart shows January as the coolest month (10-21°C) and May as warmest (16-28°C).
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Where to stay
Budget travelers find value in Zona Centro guesthouses and small hotels. Posada La Mariquinta (Calle José María Alfaro 12) offers comfortable rooms in a quiet neighborhood near the main plaza with lower rates for longer stays. Hotel Central Xalapa (Av. 20 de Noviembre 522) has cable TV and internet access with best rates around 629 pesos. Hotel Misión Express Xalapa Centro (Av. Avila Camacho No. 60) provides 16 rooms with free Wi-Fi starting from 650 pesos.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Food and drink
Xalapa is the birthplace of the jalapeño pepper. Local dishes feature maize: gorditas, tostadas, pasties, enfrijoladas, and chicken. Desserts are typically sweet — cake, cocadas, candied fruit, dulce de leche, and jamoncillo. Mercado Adolfo Ruiz Cortines ("La Rotunda") is famous for the picada — a deep-dish style dish with taco filling of finely chopped meat. For Huasteca regional cuisine, Bacan Macut (Av. 20 de Noviembre #532, 08:00-18:00) sources authentic ingredients from Veracruz highlands. Mercado Jáuregui (Tamborrell 4, Daily 07:00-20:30) offers typical Mexican market fare plus artesanias including ceramics and woven clothing.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Things to do
The Anthropology Museum of Xalapa (MAX, Av. Xalapa) displays pre-Hispanic cultures of Veracruz with extensive Olmec collections, including giant Olmec head sculptures from San Lorenzo — M$70, open Tu-Su 09:00-17:00. Pinacoteca Diego Rivera (Calle José Joaquín Herrera 5) holds the world's largest Diego Rivera collection plus modern artists — free, 10:00-18:00 (closed Mondays). Xalapa Catedral (Juan de La Luz Enríquez s/n, Zona Centro) was built in 1641 and overhauled in 1896 in neo-gothic style with twin spires and stained glass. Botanical Garden Francisco Javier Clavijero spans 38 hectares including preserved coffee plantation forest — M$5 adults, M$2 children, daily 09:00-17:00. Teatro del Estado (Calle Ignacio de la Llave 2) presents symphonies, theater, and music in a colonial-era building.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Connectivity
Most Xalapa hotels including Hotel Misión Express and Hotel Central offer free Wi-Fi. Several coffee shops provide WiFi alongside their drinks: La Parroquia de Veracruz, 4 Regiones (serves Veracruz and Oaxaca coffees), El Café-tal Apan, Cafe Lindo, and Flor Catorce all charge around M$100 for coffee and have extended hours.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Safety
Xalapa is a relatively safe university city, though standard urban precautions apply. Juárez Park and Zona Centro see regular tourist traffic. Markets can be cramped; watch belongings. The city is best avoided late at night in less-touristed peripheral neighborhoods.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Day trips
Naolinco is a traditional village famous for leather goods and Día de los Muertos celebrations. Xico (also spelled Chicó) is known for its huge summer bullfight and nearby impressive waterfalls. Veracruz, the largest city in the state, offers a completely different experience on the hot coastal plain — easily reachable by bus from the Central de Autobuses.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Go next
From Xalapa, buses run to Naolinco (leather goods village), Xico (waterfalls and bullfights), and Veracruz city (largest in the state on the coast). ADO buses connect these destinations from Central de Autobuses Xalapa.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0
Field guide adapted from Wikivoyage contributors · CC BY-SA 4.0. Text has been adapted and organized for this guide. About our sources.
Places to know
A few starting points from the guide. Check current hours and prices before you go.
- sleep
Hotel Central Xalapa
All of its rooms have a cable TV, telephone, and electronic keys and lock. Some of its facilities are La Tasca del Quijote (serves a variety of international cuisines), mutifunctional rooms, a business center, and Internet access.
Recorded price: Best rates on website start at 628.81 pesos
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- sleep
Hotel Mision Xalapa Plaza de las Convenciones
All rooms equipped with cable television, coffee/tea maker, telephone, and Internet access. Some of its facilities are swimming pool, fitness room/gym, laundry service, and safe deposit boxes.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- sleep
Hotel Misión Express Xalapa Centro
The hotel offers 16 rooms which have plasma TV with cable service, free Wi-Fi access, a coffee/tea maker, telephone, work desk, and a fan.
Recorded price: Rates on website start at 650 pesos
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- sleep
Posada La Mariquinta
Very comfortable guest house in quiet neighborhood within walking location of main plaza.
Recorded price: Rates are lower for longer stays
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- eat
Asadero Cien - Zaragoza
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- eat
Bacan Macut
This restaurant specializes in Huasteca cuisine, from the northern part of the state of Veracruz. The dishes are quite excellent and not what you are normally familiar with as Mexican food. The owner is very demanding both in terms of cleanliness, and authenticity of the dishes, sourcing the ingredients from growers and suppliers in the region to which the dishes belong. The customer service experience is adequate, and the menu is varied enough to find something to your liking. Most dishes include pork, beef, chicken or seafood, with few vegetarian and no vegan choices.
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- eat
Cariño Mío Restaurante
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
- eat
Casumi
Adapted from Wikivoyage contributors
Before you go
Culture
Xalapa's university-town identity shows in street musicians, fandango dancing, theaters, and museums. Art has a keen following here.
Food
Try the local picada at Mercado Adolfo Ruiz Cortines. Jalapeños originated here. Huasteca cuisine is well-represented at Bacan Macut near the bus station.
Language
Spanish is the local language. University presence means some English is spoken at tourist-oriented establishments.
Money
Local currency is Mexican Peso (MXN). Prices in listings show M$ notation. Markets and small restaurants are often cash-only.
Transport
Scooter rental is highly recommended for exploring hilly Xalapa. Central de Autobuses Xalapa is the main long-distance hub with ADO as the primary operator.
Weather
Xalapa sits in the highlands above the Veracruz coast, enjoying cooler temperatures (10-28°C) than the coast. Rainy season runs June-September.