Wyndham, Western Australia

Wyndham is a tiny far-north Kimberley outpost with just 914 residents, over 3000 km from Perth and twice as far from Bali. It's a functional frontier town serving the Ord River irrigation scheme, cattle trade, port, and small-scale mining and tourism. The main reason to stop is as a springboard to El Questro Station and as a gateway to Purnululu National Park (Bungle Bungles). The tropical monsoon climate means the dry season April-October is the only viable visiting window.

The Doolboong or Duulngari were the Aboriginal people of this area. Their language is extinct but about half the population today is Aboriginal. Europeans first sighted this coast in 1819, naming the five crocodile-infested rivers (Durack, Pentecost, King, Forrest, and Ord) flowing into Cambridge Gulf. When gold was discovered at Hall's Creek in 1885, a port was created to bring in men, supplies, and machinery. Afghan camels and drivers were imported to shift heavy loads through 370 km of arid terrain. The original town at the port slumped into a ghost town in 1888 when gold was exhausted. A meat-packing factory from 1913 kept the town alive until closing in 1985.

Wyndham is 100 km from Kununurra by road. Great Northern Highway is a good sealed road branching off Victoria Highway at Cockburn. A bumpier but more scenic route from Kununurra is via Parry Creek Rd or Ivanhoe Crossing, but only accessible by 4WD in the dry season. Gibb River Road is a shortcut from Derby, also requiring 4WD and only passable in the dry season, ending at Great Northern Highway 10 km north of Cockburn junction. Greyhound buses eastbound from Broome and Derby to Darwin call around 2 AM; westbound from Darwin to Broome call around 7 PM. You need a taxi cued up at the bus stop to take you into town. The nearest commercial airport is Kununurra, with flights between Broome and Darwin.

You need wheels, preferably 4WD, as the best sights are some distance out of town. The town itself is walkable but attractions like King George Falls (12 km upriver) and the surrounding stations require a capable vehicle.

Visit during the dry season April-October. The rest of the year brings monsoon downpours and extreme crocodile danger in all waterways. Road access to stations and attractions is only reliable during the dry season. July and August are peak tourist season.

Accommodation options are limited and mostly remote station stays. Wyndham Caravan Park at 9 Baker Street offers powered sites from $25. Rusty Wheelbarrow at 1293 Great Northern Highway has four rooms amid tropical gardens. Parry Creek Farm (Parry Creek Rd) is a B&B resort open May-August with doubles from $280 and powered sites from $55. Digger's Rest Station (King River Road) is a working cattle station 4WD-essential, with bunkhouse from $190, bush hut from $160, and camping from $25 per person per night. El Questro Station 5 km east is a working cattle farm with rooms and camping April-October.

Wyndham Oasis Cafe at 56 Koolama St is open M-F 7AM-9PM, Sa Su 8AM-9PM. Croc Cafe by the filling station is open M-Sa 7AM-3PM, Su 10AM-2PM. Pizzeria Orsucci next door is open W-M 7-11:30PM. The town no longer has a free-standing pub, but cafes serve alcohol. The Wyndham Supermarket at 20 Great Northern Highway (M-F 7AM-6PM, Sa Su 9AM-2PM) is well-stocked with prices high but reasonable for the remote location.

The Big Crocodile on Great Northern Highway greets your arrival into town. At 18 m long, it's one of Australia's big things. Wyndham Museum at 1 Macphee St is housed in the old Courthouse building, open April-October daily 10AM-2PM (hours are erratic). The Afghan Cemetery on Kapundra St 1 km east honors 11 camel drivers brought from Afghanistan in the 1890s; their large graves face west towards Mecca with the lead camel buried alongside its owner. The Pioneer Cemetery was in use 1886-1929 with 12 deaths from meat-packing factory construction. Fisherman's Jetty west of the museum is a good croc-watching spot. Five Rivers Lookout atop the 360 m Bastion Range offers wide views of town, mud flats, and the five rivers draining into Cambridge Gulf. The Koolama shipwreck lies 40 m north of the wharf, visible at low tide. Three Mile Valley is a pleasant hike beneath the Bastion Range.

Always heed crocodile warnings. Saltwater crocodiles are present in all waterways including Fisherman's Jetty area. Do not swim in any waterways. The Boab Prison Tree is a large boab tree used as a makeshift prison for Aboriginal prisoners in the 1890s. Road trains run continuously along the highways near Cockburn junction.

As of July 2024, there is no mobile signal in Wyndham or on its approach highways. This is a true digital detox destination.

Daily costs for budget travelers are higher than typical Australian destinations due to the remote location. Campers at Wyndham Caravan Park pay around $25 for powered sites. Station stays offer camping from $25 per person. Food at cafes runs higher than cities, with meals in the $15-25 range. Fuel is available at Kimberley Motors (M-F 6AM-3PM, Sa Su 7AM-1PM).

King George Falls is approximately 12 km upriver and accessible by boat or 4WD. Mitchell Falls is a major attraction in the region. El Questro Gorge and Emma Gorge Resort offer waterfall and swimming experiences. The Bungle Bungles (Purnululu National Park) is a must-see but requires more than a day trip to fully appreciate.

Kununurra is a comfortable base for exploring the area with boat trips on its barrage lake, 100 km north. Purnululu National Park (Bungle Bungles) is a must-see with its striped sandstone domes. Warmun (Turkey Creek) is an Aboriginal community 200 km south, an entry point to Purnululu with a long-standing Aboriginal arts scene. Derby is the first stopover heading west, followed by Broome and the Pilbara region.