Varanasi

Varanasi is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities, dating back to the 11th century BCE. It is the most sacred city in Hinduism and Jainism, and important in Buddhism, making it India's most important pilgrimage destination. The sunrise prayers on the Ganges and the ancient temples are awe-inspiring. However, be prepared for intense scenes: burning corpses and sewage in the river.

The best time to visit Varanasi is between October and March to avoid the scorching summer heat. Bring warm clothes for chilly days and nights. The city can be very hot in summer, with temperatures exceeding 40°C.

Varanasi is accessible by air, train, and bus. Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport (VNS) has flights to major Indian cities and international destinations like Kathmandu and Bangkok. The main train stations are Varanasi Junction (Cantt) and Banaras (BSBS), with long-distance trains from Delhi, Mumbai, and Kolkata. Bus services connect to nearby cities. Auto-rickshaw from the train station to the Ganges riverfront costs ₹100.

Many streets are narrow, so walking is often necessary to reach destinations. Cycle-rickshaws, auto-rickshaws, and cars can access main roads. Boat rides on the Ganges are a popular way to see the ghats, with prices around ₹50 per person per hour.

Take a boat ride on the Ganges at sunrise or sunset to see the ghats and the evening aarti ceremony. Walk through the alleys of the old city behind Dasaswamedh Ghat, with chai shops, silk merchants, and handicraft stalls. Visit the Jantar Mantar observatory and the Ramnagar Fort museum. Bathing in the Ganges is a sacred activity, but be aware of water pollution.

Varanasi is famous for Banarasi Khana, including Benares Dum Aloo (potatoes in sweet and spicy gravy) and street food like aloo chaat. Don't miss the famous Varanasi paan (betel leaf with sweet or tobacco fillings, ₹10-300) and lassi from Pahalwan Lassi at Ravidas Gate. The city offers many rooftop restaurants with views of the ghats, serving Indian and Western dishes.

The most interesting area to stay is around the ghats, close to the main attractions, but it can be noisy. Alternative areas include near Varanasi Junction railway station, about 10 minutes away by tuk-tuk. Budget accommodations start from ₹200 for a double room. Some hostels offer free boat rides. Be aware of power outages in summer; check for backup generators.

Violent crime is rare in Varanasi, but be careful in the lanes after dark. The Ganges water is polluted; avoid bathing in the river due to risk of infection. At Manikarnika Ghat, remain quiet and avoid photography to respect the cremation rites.

BSNL, Jio, Vi, and Airtel are popular cell phone services. Bring your GSM phone and buy a SIM card with your passport and photo. Wi-Fi is available at most hotels and restaurants catering to tourists. Internet cafes are common in the lanes between Dasaswamedh and Assi ghats.

Varanasi is famous for its fine silk; shop around and haggle for sarees, salwar suits, and handicrafts. Popular shopping areas include Gowdalia Chowk and Shri Khatu Ji wholesale bazar. Look for hand-knotted silk carpets, hand-embroidered cashmere, and natural perfumes.

From Varanasi, you can visit Agra (the Golden Triangle), Bodh Gaya (Buddhist pilgrimage site), Delhi (13-hour train), Khajuraho (temples), and Sarnath (where Buddha gave his first teaching, 10 km away). Local buses and trains connect to these destinations.

Varanasi is a sacred city; dress modestly, especially near temples and ghats. Remove shoes before entering temples. At cremation ghats, maintain silence and avoid photography. It is customary to offer flowers and candles to the river, but avoid non-biodegradable items.

A backpacker can expect to spend around ₹500-1000 per day in Varanasi. Budget accommodation starts at ₹200 for a double room, dorm beds from ₹390. Street food meals cost ₹25-100, while restaurant meals are ₹150-600. Boat rides are around ₹50 per person per hour. Power outages are common in summer.

Sarnath, 10 km from Varanasi, is where Buddha gave his first teaching; it takes about 1 hour by auto-rickshaw (₹400 one way). Other day trips include Rajghat (archaeological site, ₹200 entry) and the Ramnagar Fort museum.