Ürgüp

Ürgüp has been settled since ancient times, but little remains before the 11th century AD when the Seljuks established it as a trading centre. By the 1880s the population was much the same as today (24,600 in 2022); roughly 15% were Greek Orthodox who called the town Prokopi, building fine mansions and ornate churches until their 1923 deportation. The area's signature feature is the soft volcanic tuff that erodes easily, creating the fairy chimneys and allowing cave dwelling. Many caves have been continuously inhabited, now increasingly converted to hotels.

By road from Ankara, follow O-21 (toll highway) then D300 east into Nevşehir, then D302 to Ürgüp. Inter-city buses typically route through Nevşehir, where you change to a local dolmuş for the 20-minute connection. Metroturizm operates two direct buses daily from Ankara (€10-15, nearly 4 hours via Nevşehir, Göreme, and Avanos). From Istanbul, catch a bus to Nevşehir and transfer. The bus station is central in town.

The main sights are spread over a broad area, but most lie near the main roads. Dolmuşes (shared minibuses) run frequently between Ürgüp and neighboring towns like Göreme, Avanos, and Uçhisar. For outlying valleys, travel agents offer jeep tours that handle the rough tracks more comfortably than rental cars.

Sobesos, near Şahinefendi village, contains Roman ruins from the 4th century AD with mosaic floors, two chapels, and other buildings—discovered in 2002 with excavations ongoing (free entry). Gomeda Valley offers hiking trails through rock-carved dwellings, with Alakara Church the first structure reached. The Coffee Museum in Mustafapaşa (Ürgüp Cd 13, daily 09:30-22:30) focuses on artwork of coffee jars and crockery, with items for sale.

Hot-air ballooning is the signature activity—every travel agent sells rides lasting 60-90 minutes, typically at sunrise or sunset when winds are lightest and rock formations cast dramatic shadows. Prices vary by operator and season (expect €150-250 per person). Hiking tours are equally ubiquitous; compare a few agents before booking. Valley jeep tours work well for remote areas where the guide knows the easiest trails. The Hamam (İstiklal Cd 18, daily 10:00-23:30) is a traditional Turkish bath near Temenni Hill.

Supermarket chains Bim, Şok, and A101 are clustered south of Castle Hill. Carpet and kilim shops along the main street offer reasonably priced woven goods—the area has a long textile tradition. The Saturday market sets up on Ahmet Asım Yolaç Cd, 500 m south of the town centre, selling produce, textiles, and souvenirs. The Coffee Museum (Mustafapaşa) has artisan coffee-related items.

Cheap eats and patisseries line Atatürk Blv near the bus station. Ürgüp Pide (at bus station, daily 10:00-21:30) serves reliable pide, kebabs, and Turkish standards. Sofra Restaurant (Atatürk Blv 25, by main square, M-Sa 08:00-23:30, Su 10:00-23:00) offers good cuisine at reasonable prices—avoid outside tables due to traffic noise. Ziggy Cafe (Ahmet Refik Cd, daily 12:00-23:30) has a varied menu in a lovely setting. Prokopi (Tevfik Fikret Cd 40, by Turasan winery, daily 12:00-00:00) occupies an old house with a panoramic terrace and smart ambiance. A warning: avoid stews cooked in wood-fired pottery that may have been prepared days in advance.

Angel Cafe Bar on Cumhuriyet Meydanı (daily 09:00-03:00) provides pleasant outdoor seating on the main square, though prices run higher than other cafes. Turasan Vineyard (Tevfik Fikret Cd 6, west side of town, daily 09:00-19:00) has a shop with paid tastings—their reds are well-regarded. Prokopi restaurant doubles as a wine bar with terrace views.

Cave hotels cluster in Esbelli district northwest of town—some are Ottoman mansions extended into the hillside with mixed masonry and cave rooms. Modern conventional hotels dominate the east side. Budget options include Ürgüp Inn (Sağır Mescid Sk 22, B&B double 2000 TL), Antik Cave House (Dolay Sk 14, B&B double 1500 TL), and Red Horse Hotel (Atatürk Blv 56, B&B double 1500 TL). Mid-range cave choices: Cave Konak Hotel (İstiklal Cd, B&B double 2500 TL), Elkep Evi (Esbelli Sk 26, B&B double 3000 TL), and Hotel Surban (Süleyman Efendi Sk, B&B double 2500 TL). Upscale cave experiences: Sacred House Hotel (Barbaros Hayrettin Sk 25, B&B double 5000 TL) and Yunak Evleri (Balcı Sk, B&B double 6000 TL). Janet Hotel (Ali Baran Numanoglu Blv 155) is inexpensive but cleanliness is inconsistent.

Ürgüp and its approach roads have 4G coverage from all Turkish carriers (Turkcell, Vodafone, Türk Telekom). As of July 2024, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey. Local SIM cards are widely available. WiFi is standard in hotels and many cafes.

Göreme is the lively tourist hub 10 km west, with cave dwellings and fairy chimneys plus the Open Air Museum. Uçhisar Castle is a prominent pinnacle riddled with caves, 3 km south. Avanos and Ortahisar are quieter nearby towns worth a half-day. The main draw is the underground cities—40 are known in the region, with Kaymakli and Derinkuyu being the most impressive, accessible via the highway south from Nevşehir. Mustafapaşa (4 km south) has the Coffee Museum and Greek-era architecture.