Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki is the second-largest city in Greece with one million inhabitants and a continuous 3,000-year history. The city preserves relics of its Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman past and its formerly dominant Jewish population. Its Byzantine churches are included on UNESCO's World Heritage List. The city is considered a gourmet destination in Greece, known for excellent local specialities and cheap ouzo taverns.

Thessaloniki International Airport "Macedonia" is 15 km south of the city centre with international flights to major European airports and destinations in the Middle East and Turkey. The New Thessaloniki railway station (Monastiriou St 28, daily 05:00-00:30) offers train connections; call 1440 for recorded departure information. The Macedonia Intercity Bus Station (KTEL, Giannitson 244) serves domestic and international routes. The Halkidiki Bus Station (Pylaia district) serves the peninsula.

Thessaloniki has an extensive bus network. The Cultural Route public bus tour (Line 50) departs from the White Tower for a 50-minute tour of the city's main historical monuments with audio commentary in Greek and English. A taxi from the airport to the city centre costs approximately €15. Ferry services run from the Port and White Tower to sandy beaches at Peraia, Neoi Epivates, and Agia Triada - expect a 40-minute trip each way.

The climate chart shows Thessaloniki's Mediterranean pattern: winter temperatures average 5-12°C with most rainfall (October-March), while summer (June-August) brings 24-32°C with less precipitation. The city hosts major events including the Thessaloniki International Fair (September), Thessaloniki Film Festival (November), and World Naked Bike Ride (June). Summer offers beach ferries and floating bar cruises in the harbour.

Budget backpackers can find hostel beds from €11.50-19 per night at places like Little Big House Hostel and Studios Arabas. Mid-range hotels near the train station (Alexandria Hotel from €33 twin) offer private rooms with private bathroom, A/C, WiFi. The city centre around Aristotelous Square and Egnatia Street has the widest accommodation options. Ladadika and Ano Poli (Kastra) offer atmospheric neighbourhood stays.

Thessaloniki is famous for its bougatsa (cream pie breakfast pastry) and gyros (pork or chicken, under €3). Street food includes koulouri (sesame bread, €0.50), roasted chestnuts in winter, and corn on the cob (€1-2) in summer. Local specialities include soutzoukakia (minced meat pellets), stafidopsomo (bread with raisins), and patsas (tripe soup for late night/early morning). Seafood dishes include mydopilafo (rice with mussels) and mydia saganaki (mussels in tomato sauce). A beer costs €3-7, alcohol €5-10, coffee €2.50-5.

Major attractions include the White Tower (€6/€3, symbol of the city with museum), the Roman Forum (€10, excavations with museum underneath), the Rotunda (€8, ancient temple converted to mosque), and the Arch of Galerius (free). The city has over a dozen Byzantine churches with free entry, including Saint Demetrios, Hagia Sophia, and Panagia Chalkeon. Museums include the Archaeological Museum (€8), Museum of Byzantine Culture (€8, Europe's best museum 2005), and Jewish Museum (€7). Walk the 12 km seafront promenade or take a ferry to nearby beaches.

Thessaloniki is generally a very safe city but watch your pockets and travel documents as there may be pickpockets, especially in buses during rush hour. Some areas around the railway station at night, Dendropotamos, and Sfageia should be avoided - these are full of abandoned buildings and factories and are hotspots for drug use and prostitution. Police number is 100.

As of 2021, Thessaloniki has 5G from Cosmote and 4G from Wind and Vodafone. WiFi is widely available in public places. Power plugs use standard European Type F (two-pin, grounding).

Thessaloniki is the liveliest city in Northern Greece. Trendy bars line Nikis Avenue along the old seafront and around Aristotelous Square. Ladadika (the old warehouse district near the port) hosts nightclubs and traditional Greek bouzoukia venues. The student area around Kamara (Arch of Galerius) has cheaper cafes and bars. Summer boat bars depart from the White Tower area every 2 hours for 30-minute evening trips in the Gulf. Popular drinking spots include Proxenou Koromila Street, Iktinou pedestrian area (street beer culture), and Aretsou on Plastira Avenue in Kalamaria district.

Popular day trips from Thessaloniki include Chalkidiki peninsula with 500 km of beaches (ferry from city), Pella (Alexander the Great's Macedonian capital), Vergina (spectacular Macedonian royal tombs), and Dion archaeological site near Mount Olympus. The suburb of Panorama offers excellent sunset views. The island of Thasos (green mountains and beaches) is accessible by ferry from Kavala.

From Thessaloniki, you can travel west to Vergina and on to Igoumenitsa (gateway to Italy). East leads to Kavala (160 km, beautiful city) and the ancient site of Philippi (where Paul first baptised Christians in Europe). Mount Athos peninsula (UNESCO World Heritage Site with 20 Orthodox monasteries, male visitors only) and Sithonia (most beautiful part of Chalkidiki) are south. North Macedonia and Albania borders are accessible via Prespa and Doirani lakes for birdwatching.