Tepoztlan

Tepoztlan is a popular tourist destination an hour south of Mexico City, famous for the El Tepozteco pyramid on the summit of Tepozteco Mountain. The town is known for its spas, meditation retreats, alternative medicine clinics, and a very traditional city center. It is considered the birthplace of Quetzalcoatl and is ranked #2 among Mexico's "Magic Towns" (Pueblos Mágicos), hosting Latin America's shamanic community and reporting frequent UFO sightings.

From Mexico City, take the metro to the Tasqueña station and follow the "autobuses" signs to the southern bus depot next door. Pullman de Morelos offers bus service every 30 minutes at M$134 one-way (2018 prices). The scenic bus ride takes about 1.5 hours depending on traffic. Upon arrival, taxis wait at the depot to take you to the main square for M$40. Walking downtown takes 20-30 minutes along a path marked by a red metal guard rail. Frequent buses also run from the Adolfo Lopez Mateos market in Cuernavaca for about M$20.

Tepoztlan is a small, walkable town with most activity centered around the main square and Avenida 5 de Mayo. A small taxi fleet operates from designated pick-up points (sitios) around points of interest, with standard rates around M$50 from the closest point to the bus station. Tourism agencies offer certified guides for over 60 hiking routes through mountains, volcanic caverns, sacred spaces, ziplines, rivers, and forests.

The annual Tepozteco Festival takes place on September 8, featuring murals made from seeds adorning the Church of the Nativity. The Sunday market spreads across an entire street and is an excellent place to buy souvenirs and sample local dishes. The region is best visited during the dry season for hiking, though the rainy season (bring your bathing suit) offers more dramatic waterfall visits to nearby Amatlan.

Accommodation ranges from budget-friendly Hospedaje San Antonio at M$898 with a swimming pool to mid-range options like Posada Ali around M$500 on weekdays. The Hostal de la Luz Spa Holistic Resort offers suites with complimentary breakfast and holistic spa services. For camping, Meztitla (Scouts of Mexico, tents only) and Camhomila (YMCA camp with cabins) are both open to the public year-round. Note that church bells may ring throughout the night.

Tepoztlan is famous for mole verde (based on ground pumpkin seeds with pipian chiles) and ice cream from Tepoznieves with up to 200 flavors including rose petal, figs, mescal, and carrot with chili. The Sunday market offers tacos, gorditas, quesadillas, and the popular flor de calabaza and chapulines (dried grasshoppers). Pulque bars like Pulques El Nectar Tepozteco serve the traditional fermented maguey drink at M$20 for 200 mL. Mezcal bars include Lagartija Club Mezcal and Mezcalería La Cueva with live music.

The main attraction is the El Tepozteco pyramid atop a 400-meter stair climb (about 2 hours round-trip), offering views of the surrounding area and "good vibrations" — admission costs M$37 (2010). The 16th-century Dominican monastery and museum has a M$10 entry fee, while the adjacent Pellicer Museum features extensive pre-Hispanic art. Temazcal (ancient Mexican igloo-shaped sweat lodge ceremony) is available at many hotels. The Mexican Association of Scouts runs the Meztitla campground with warm showers, tent camping, hiking, rock climbing, and rappel. The market spreads across an entire street on Sundays.

The Cultural Center "Centro Cultural CCPLE Pedro Lopez Elias" is Mexico's first "ecological library" and #2 in Latin America, with over 10,000 books and intercultural activities. WiFi is available at hotels like Amomoxtli, Hotel Boutique Casa Fernanda, and Hotel La Posada del Valle.

Coati (tejón) animals at the pyramid site are curious and may attempt to open backpacks to find food — secure your belongings. The Mexican spotted lizard in Tepozteco National Park is venomous, and three species of rattlesnake are endemic to the area. The 2017 earthquake damaged the Dominican monastery, which may still be closed.

Amatlan (east) offers hotels, restaurants, and a waterfall pool where Ometochli-Quetzalcoatl (pulque inventor) was born — visit during rainy season. Tlayacapan is a Magic Town with an Augustinian monastery famous for mummies and black pottery. Yautepec has an archaeological site and 16th-century monastery, with onward buses to Oaxtepec (largest water park in Latin America). Cuernavaca is 16 km west with 350,000 people, museums, parks, and historical sites.